Ignition Drum Clean-out Screw Removal & Replacement

[Cpl. Ashencheeks]

I have an Investarms Hawken reproduction on which I have damaged the clean-out screw head on it's ignition drum, inspite of me even using a proper gunsmiths screwdriver on.

The problem is I did not use any anti-seize grease at this location and although I can still clean the ignition path through the nipple area, I would like to get into that area to clean it out more thoroughly.

Is there any way to remove this screw without damaging the threads and does anyone have any idea what size thread these screws usually are?

 

[Grenadier1758]

I know that many of us want to use that screw as a clean out screw and it can be handy. But it really isn't a necessity to have a clean out screw. That screw is a manufacturing plug to facilitate the drilling of the flash hole from the nipple to the firing chamber. You can just accept that it is stuck in there forever.

 

[Rat]

And in the future, remember that like spark plugs, or lock screws, or percussion nipples, those "clean out" screws should only be tightened "just snug". Not tight. Did I mention snug, not tight? There's no way you can damage that screw with snug. And I'm talking lightly snug, not real snug. Or super snug. As soon as it wants to stop turning....stop. Do not "tighten". The problem was not lack of grease, it was "tight".

 

[Carbon 6]

I know that many of us want to use that screw as a clean out screw and it can be handy. But it really isn't a necessity to have a clean out screw. That screw is a manufacturing plug to facilitate the drilling of the flash hole from the nipple to the firing chamber. You can just accept that it is stuck in there forever.

Ok, now everybody raise their right hand and swear an oath for all time.

"I will not remove the clean out screw".

Repeat !


"I will not remove the clean out screw".

 

[Carbon 6]

I would like to get into that area to clean it out more thoroughly.

Not necessary if you use MAP or you use the pumping method in a bucket of warm soapy water.
Trust me it's clean.

 

[FishDFly]

Yes it is.

 

[Grimord]

If you really insist on taking the screw out, I have filed flats on opposite sides of the screw head that fit a nipple wrench. You can apply more torque to the screw to remove it. Once removed, I would replace the screw, file the head smooth, touch it up with some blueing and forget it was ever there. As everyone before me has said, there is no need to remove this screw if you pump water thru the nipple hole.

 

[Rat]

Truth, there's no "need" to remove the screw on a regular basis. But I'll say again, there's even less need to tighten it beyond barely snug. If you need more torque to remove the screw, it has been way over-tightened. An occasional very small drop of oil on the screw will seep under the head and into the threads a bit, ensuring it does not freeze up...which it won't, if it's not been tightened.

After y'all are done chanting "I WILL NOT REMOVE THE CLEAN OUT SCREW", swear the second oath, which is: "I WILL NOT TIGHTEN THE CLEAN OUT SCREW, IF I DO REMOVE IT". !!!!

 

[Juice Jaws]

I have never mess with the clean out screw. No need to, you can leave it in and clean your gun just as good.

 

[Juice Jaws]

[QUOTE="Rat, post: 1559462, member: 872" "I WILL NOT TIGHTEN THE CLEAN OUT SCREW". !!!! [/QUOTE]

I always screw everything tight, then one more turn. The wife says someday I will learn.

 

[Carbon 6]

Yes it is.

Why ?

 

[bptactical]

Soak the breech end in a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) if you are insistent on removing it.

 

[Zonie]

Those of you who are determined to remove the "clean out screw" need to keep in mind that sometimes, the end of the clean-out screw and the end of the nipple will be making contact with one another when they are both screwed in.

I've seen several cases of this happening and if it does, removing the clean-out screw is nearly impossible if the nipple is still installed.
Because the nipple is a hardened and tempered piece of steel and much harder than the clean-out screw it will usually booger up the threads on the end of the screw. This makes removing the screw even more risky.

IMO, it is best to just leave the clean-out screw in place and pretend things are like the newer TC guns which didn't have one.

 

[Carbon 6]

After y'all are done chanting "I WILL NOT REMOVE THE CLEAN OUT SCREW", swear the second oath, which is: "I WILL NOT TIGHTEN THE CLEAN OUT SCREW, IF I DO REMOVE IT". !!!!

Don't forget the Loctite when reinstalling.

 

[Rat]

Those of you who are determined to remove the "clean out screw" need to keep in mind that sometimes, the end of the clean-out screw and the end of the nipple will be making contact with one another when they are both screwed in.

I've seen several cases of this happening and if it does, removing the clean-out screw is nearly impossible if the nipple is still installed.
Because the nipple is a hardened and tempered piece of steel and much harder than the clean-out screw it will usually booger up the threads on the end of the screw. This makes removing the screw even more risky.

IMO, it is best to just leave the clean-out screw in place and pretend things are like the newer TC guns which didn't have one.

Which would not happen, if the screw were only installed less than "tight". Slightly less than "snug" I should say. It is the tight that will booger up the threads. Again, turn it in until it wants to stop, or you feel resistance, and then STOP. Locktite certainly won't hurt, but I can't imagine the scew working it's way out from recoil. I've never heard of that.

 

[Rat]

[QUOTE="Rat, post: 1559462, member: 872" "I WILL NOT TIGHTEN THE CLEAN OUT SCREW". !!!!

I always screw everything tight, then one more turn. The wife says someday I will learn.[/QUOTE]
You have mentioned that before...mention to the wife that you want a torque wrench, and some torque-screwdrivers for Christmas.

 

[Carbon 6]

Locktite certainly won't hurt, but I can't imagine the scew working it's way out from recoil. I've never heard of that.

Red 271 baby, or JB weld , or maybe even solder. Leave it slightly proud and file off the screw slot.then touch up the bluing. Problem permanently solved. :thumbs up:

 

[Rat]

After reading Zon's post, and after shooting my Plains Pistol yesterday, while cleaning I pulled the clean-out screw (which was easy as I don't get it TIGHT) and found that it does indeed butt up against the nipple threads. As y'all know, the breech and barrel on the Plains Pistol is the same as the GPR, so this would apply to all GPRs, and Plains Pistols. That is a bad situation, if one screwed the clean out screw in first, that will stop the nipple from seating all the way, and indeed booger the threads of the screw when/if one forces the nipple, not realizing why it won't seat all the way. And of course that will result in "SHAZAM! Why don't the clean-out screw want to come out????"

Visa-versa, if you install/tighten the clean out screw after the nipple is seated, you are forcing the end of the screw into the threads of the nipple, which will booger the nipple and the screw, and either way possibly make it impossible to remove the clean out screw.

So yeah, people be warned, I'm not quite in the camp of "never remove", but one sure does not want to tighten the screw beyond barely snug, or install the screw before the nipple. For guns that don't have a head on the screw, like the GPR breech, I would certainly replace it with one that has a head, and make sure the threaded portion does not reach the threads of the nipple when seated all the way. And still, NEVER tighten that sucker. It won't fall out.

 

[BlackHillsBob]

every one is right, dont mess with it. however on a few froze ones i just drilled it out and retapped it and put in a slightly larger better screw.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have two TCs, a not-really-a-hawken-hawken and a Seneca. Have had both for almost 50 years and have shot them many thousands of times. I don't believe those 'expletive deleted' screws have ever been removed. Simply no need. Removing them only opens the opportunity for problems. e.g. dropping on shop floor to be lost forever.