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Ignition Drum Clean-out Screw Removal & Replacement
- Thread starter Cpl. Ashencheeks
- Start date
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IVE BEEN THEIR AND DONE THAT, GOOD REPLY
Cpl. Ashencheeks
40 Cal.
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Thanks for all the replies.
Well as it stands currently the clean screw is pretty mucked up appearance-wise, but as far as I can tell, it is still sealed and I can still access the ignition path with a pipe cleaner via the nipple hole. Rifle will still be functional, but just a tiny bit uglier where that screw got messed up. I guess now I will not bother to mess with that screw on any of my other percussion guns unless they are not overly tight.
Well as it stands currently the clean screw is pretty mucked up appearance-wise, but as far as I can tell, it is still sealed and I can still access the ignition path with a pipe cleaner via the nipple hole. Rifle will still be functional, but just a tiny bit uglier where that screw got messed up. I guess now I will not bother to mess with that screw on any of my other percussion guns unless they are not overly tight.
Take a file to the screw head or a small dremel sanding drum to smooth out the buggered screw, re-blue the screw head and forget ever trying to remove it.
mechteacher
50 flint
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This will not get that stuck item out but will keep them from getting frozen in place.
Having worked aircraft engines for over 50 years, I have tried many anti-seize compounds. They work up to different temperatures. I feel that nickel base anti-seize compound works best. you can get it at auto parts stores. I would not get the aluminum base. While the copper base is ok. If you don't have any, milk of magnesia as anti seize compound works fine. Several turbine engines use it on the igniters and hot section bolts.
Having worked aircraft engines for over 50 years, I have tried many anti-seize compounds. They work up to different temperatures. I feel that nickel base anti-seize compound works best. you can get it at auto parts stores. I would not get the aluminum base. While the copper base is ok. If you don't have any, milk of magnesia as anti seize compound works fine. Several turbine engines use it on the igniters and hot section bolts.
Ah! The good old MOM. The wonder woman of anti-seize.
Yes, it is used in very high temperature areas on jet engine threads to keep them from seizing.
The catch is, all of the parts used in the hot sections of jet engines are corrosion resistant materials like 17-4ph, Inconel, austenitic and martensitic stainless and other more exotic materials like waspaloy, hastelloy and stellite.
MOM (Milk of Magnesia) is a water based product and using it on plain carbon steel can cause corrosion (rust). About the last thing I would want to use on the screw threads on my muzzleloaders is something that could cause the threads to rust.
Yes, it is used in very high temperature areas on jet engine threads to keep them from seizing.
The catch is, all of the parts used in the hot sections of jet engines are corrosion resistant materials like 17-4ph, Inconel, austenitic and martensitic stainless and other more exotic materials like waspaloy, hastelloy and stellite.
MOM (Milk of Magnesia) is a water based product and using it on plain carbon steel can cause corrosion (rust). About the last thing I would want to use on the screw threads on my muzzleloaders is something that could cause the threads to rust.
