Did they have rifle racks in the back window of their pick ups?...and Bore Butter, and investment cast locks, and electric drills, and computers,and....
Did they have rifle racks in the back window of their pick ups?...and Bore Butter, and investment cast locks, and electric drills, and computers,and....
Dutch,
The 25 and 50 yard targets were off hand and of course 100 bench. We practiced at home . All yardage was bench just to make sure all shots were consistant. They were.he is a good shot no flinching his eyes stay open thru the shot and he follows thru after each shot.
Consistant with powder,balls seating,swab between shots. But it takes a lot of practice. But it pays off. Lets not forget the lube.
Larry
So you feel you only need accuracy when competing in a match and not when hunting? I would think a person would want accuracy for every shot. As the whole object offloading and aiming a rifle is to place a small lead object in a specific spot on target, squirrel or Bambi it doesn't make sense to me not to do your best with every shot fired.
I guess that might make me anut case I am not criticizing blinkers its just different strokes etc,
Dutch
When I hunt I rely on the first and maybe second shots on an otherwise clean barrel to get the job done. My rifle is very capable of the accuracy to drop deer sized game without concern for swabbing between shots. I don't expect to clover leaf my shots at 50 yards and it isn't necessary to do so to take deer. Now I've never hunted squirrels with a small caliber muzzle loader, yet, so when I get to that point (once my squirrel gun is finished) I may have to change my tune, but I doubt it.
No the first evidence of rifle racks in pickups was a letter from bents fort, to Sam Hawken in 1852 indicating seeing a rack in a pick up on the way to Santa Fe, he thought it was a good idea and was enquirering if Sam could make such a thing. Records from the Hawken shop indicates they did not produce one until ‘55.Did they have rifle racks in the back window of their pick ups?
The patches wasn't dripping WD40. And as far as I could tell, at the time, it had no effect on the powder or shooting power. When the weather warms up I'll make an effort and try it again. Charles
WD 40 is definatatly flammable. It has been used as a starting fluid in cold, un-coopertive Diesel engines that cannot tolerate ether based starting fluids (e.g. engines with glow plugs).How does WD 40 affect black powder's explosion when WD 40 wets that powder?
As WD 40 is probably flammable It wouldn't be as damping as water wet black powder.
Enquiring minds want to know....
Dutch
WD 40 is definatatly flammable. It has been used as a starting fluid in cold, un-coopertive Diesel engines that cannot tolerate ether based starting fluids (e.g. engines with glow plugs).
If you are getting a lot of fouling, you may not have your patches wet enough. Use a grease patch only if the gun is to be left loaded for a long time (hunting0. If you are shooting a lot of shots with wet patches, you shouldn't get any build-up because the bore gets swabbed each time you load. If, for some reason, I find it necessary to swab (because my patches got dry), I usually load first, then spit up a really soggy patch, and swab the barrel down to the ball. Doing it this way does not risk wetting the chamber area. do not cap or cock while you are doing this.what do you use to swab between multiple shots? I was using a cotton bore swab like you get in most gun cleaning kits but it seems to get caked up quick. Suggestions or pics of items homemade or store bought.
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