Does any one know there is a difference between finish nails and wire nails that are used for finishing?
-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Finishing nails for barrel pins
- Thread starter sqqy14
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
- Joined
- May 28, 2022
- Messages
- 9,118
- Reaction score
- 22,017
- Location
- Louisiana & My camp in Mississippi
Nope.
Guessing there has been a thread cleanup in the adult beverage aisle…….
No reason why a finishing nail or any other ferrous material wouldn’t work for a pin. Personally, examples of pin material I would definitely avoid include copper, brass, wood or plastic, but honestly haven’t tried these options, among others one may think of.
I have heard folks say wire coat hangers work just fine, but I’m going first class and am willing spending the extra dollar or so for better pins in my builds. Necessary? I don’t know. But I find it hard to understand how someone will expect to sell a gun for maybe thousands of dollars, yet complain about the cost of a material upgrade for a handful of pins that adds less that a few bucks to the cost of a build.
But there just aren’t any specifications for custom builds.
Back to @sqqy14 ‘s OP. Someone just trying to pin an old gun’s stock and barrel. Use what fits. I doubt the rules committee will be by anytime soon to make an inspection.
I guess if it,s a finishing nail and you used it...it,s finished....
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2010
- Messages
- 4,530
- Reaction score
- 4,161
If you guys are through being serious then there's no reason to keep this thread open.
It's up to you guys.
It's up to you guys.
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2021
- Messages
- 251
- Reaction score
- 363
I have used them for years with no issues. Still working after 40 years in a couple.
Your talking rifle, no experience here with that but an 1860 Colt army revolver uses two pins to align the barrel. I used stainless siding nails to replace both on one of mine. Several years and hundreds of rounds fired and they are both still intact b
If you're talking about gun nails, they're not round.
Fitzhugh Williams
40 Cal
FWIW, the little flags that are used to mark underground utilities have a 1/16 shaft and make great pins. Any hardware store sells them, or you can just re-purpose some you happen to run across.
The only suggestion from me in this threshing is ,keep your pins small , and measure the pin for the correct drill size. Slot the pin lugs so the barrel can move a bit. And as Fitzhugh says , the 1/16" wire shaftson marker flags work well and most hardware stores have new shiny ones. They don't stand out if slight drilling misque's happen.
I started taking apart a beautiful rifle a friend gave me on his deathbed, the trigger had problems. As I punched out the trigger guard pins, I found that the builder used finishing nails for the pins but left the heads on them. The rifle was built in the early 70s, obviously by a hobby builder.
Every pin I punched out took a chip out of the stock on its exit because of the nail heads, I fixed the chips and replaced the pins I removed with music wire. I wanted to remove the barrel but didn't want to chip out any more places on the stock.
The rifle has amazing wood in it;
Every pin I punched out took a chip out of the stock on its exit because of the nail heads, I fixed the chips and replaced the pins I removed with music wire. I wanted to remove the barrel but didn't want to chip out any more places on the stock.
The rifle has amazing wood in it;
I figure the guns that we would like own (the ones 200years old) probably used a nail of sort or forged bc they'd didn"t have access to piano wire so the used what they had. We need to lighten up and use what you decide to, it's your gun my humble opinion, thanks
Ok this was ‘something I read’ u think back in the 1980s. I can’t link to it or confirm it, I don’t know where the picture of the gun would be, but here goes.
It was a photo of a New England made sporting gun. Half stock with poured pewter end cap. The stock was maple and well figured. The underrib was cherry and dark over the years to almost black. There were three tendons on the barrel inlet in to the cherry underrib. And two ramrod pipes. All were held on by locust thorn pins, they were almost invisible on the dark cherry, though I expect they were black spots on red wood when new.
Beautiful wood
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2019
- Messages
- 90
- Reaction score
- 168
Bright finish are plain nails.
Bright means polished.
For informational purposes, our local Ace hardware has 3' lengths of music wire in various diameters. Whether it or nails are used for barrel pins is a personal matter.
MikeWas
32 Cal
Everybody knows there is one & only one correct way to do anything, and that would be my way!
beardedhorse
Pilgrim
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2014
- Messages
- 453
- Reaction score
- 351
Cut off the four flanges on the point and index each pin with a file or saw mark to correspond with the right barrel lug. Put your mark on the right or left end of each pin so you know what direction to always enter the hole. If they are loose or fall out you can bend them slightly. Break the edges (sharp ends) of the pin to not scrape or damage on the wood on the forestock or any other place you use the pins. Personally I prefer drill rod for most applications especially ramrod thimbles.
Similar threads
