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Flint to percusion

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Took my 20 smoothy and my 12 dbl out yesterday to do smome soot burning and confirmed my suspisions as to accuracy in the flint 20.

Best 20 groups shooting the ol click boom was 3 in 3 inch at 40 yds. This with an added peep to the tang to see if my front sight only was the problem. Nope.

My 12 capper has had rifle front and peep rear added and i can group this in 1 raged hole at the same 40 yards.

Seriously contemplating "up grading" the flint to percussion. Just can't seem to fall in love with the flinter ... have taken it out several times now and shot around 300 shots thru it. Just don't seem to acclimate to the click boom.

Do not read of any cap smoothies tho. Is this true or do i miss these posts?
 
I had a Pedersoli Mortimer 12g in percussion and it shot very well with a ball.
A Pedersoli double shot brilliant from its left barrel.
My faux trade gun by Pedersoli, a flintlock, shoots very well now the lock is fast.
My short Bess I struggle with, that big lock is so reliable but very slow and I have a bear of a job to follow through with it, I gave up with ball, besides I don't have a need for ball from it!
If I was to be brutally honest, a caplock is quicker in my opinion but I prefer a flintlock for its added operator input requirements.
A caplock in the field can be more trouble some than a flintlock.
Any greasy crud in that flash channel and it's a pain once in the field, getting a flash in a pan of a flintlock in the field and it's going to shoot!
I have never had the pleasure of a petite fine lock on a quality flintlock rifle but I understand they are very fast and special.

B.
 
Given the sights mentioned, I’d spend some time experimenting w ball size, patch or not, powder, lube , etc. I’ve got a flint Trade Gun coming and will be doing the same.

Awwww shucks, I have to go to the range again.
TC.
 
So in retrospect, and before doing any changes, couple questions on the flintlock.

First off i do not think this flinter is very fast. It always goes click/ boom. It always shoots but is agonizingly slow with the delay or maybe hang fire. The frizzen. Almost always hangs instead of snapping fully open. Is it possible to have too stiff a frizzen spring? I see you tubes where as soon as the flint falls the gun fires, fast as a capper, not so much with this Davis old English lock.

Did not get any better accuracy when i installed the hand made peep on the tang. Bout 3 inch with and without the rear sight at 40 yards so guess i have some spearmenting with the loads and ball sizes as well as patches and thickness ... but the hang fire does nothing for my confidence in this stinker. Flint sharpness seems to have small effect and razor sharp or kinda dull fires about the same speed

HELP ???

I do like dinkin with it but seems like im in a hard spot here.
 
If the pan is always lighting up, then the delay is getting the heat from the pan to the charge. I hesitate to put all the reasoning on your delay to the lock. We need to investigate the path that the heat takes from the pan to the charge.

Where is the touch hole with respect to the pan? The touch hole should be centered in the pan and the center of the touch hole should be at the horizon point at the top of the pan.

How much priming powder do you use in the pan? If a small lock, 3fg powder should work fine. You may want to try 4fg or Swiss Null G powder to see if a finer grade may produce a hotter flash.

Is the powder banked toward the touch hole or away? I prefer to use a pan filled across the bottom of the pan and slightly toward the touch hole, but not covering the touch hole.

What type of touch hole do you have? Is it directly drilled or is it lined? If it is lined, whose liner or is it internally coned? If lined, does the liner protrude into the bore?

What is the size of the touch hole? It should be 1/16" in diameter. Open it up to 1.16" or use a #52 or #51 drill to open it up. Use a counter sink or a larger drill bit to provide a little bit of a cone into the touch hole.

Where is the touch hole with respect to the breech face? The touch hole should line up just in front of the breech face. Some touch holes may be installed just behind the breech face and a notch in the breech plug will direct the flash to the charge and also collect fouling. Use a pipe cleaner to open up the flash channel.

When you test the flint and frizzen for sparks, do the sparks fall into the pan and across the bottom of the pan? The flint should scrape across the face of the frizzen and not bash into it. A match stick or a small piece of leather thong at the rear of the flint can redirect the flint to scrape sparks off the frizzen rather than bash the sparks off.
 
My Pedersoli trade gun with a version of the Lott lock was painfully slow. I had to bend the cock a fraction, weld and reshape the frizzen heel and how it cams on the frizzen spring. I made my own frizzen spring also, read alot lighter.
Now it's fast and reliable and I get decent flint life.

By the way, do you prick the vent?

B.
 
Wow THANKS! MANY things to check on. I will get back on these things.

Again thanks and i will attempt to post a photo of my settup.
 
Some may frown at me or advise me for this but with one flint lock I warmed with a small blow torch the frizzen spring to draw it back some. I was very cautious and stopped as soon as it seemed lighter on the frizzen.
Just a thought.

B.
 
bigted said:
So in retrospect...

The frizzen. Almost always hangs instead of snapping fully open. Is it possible to have too stiff a frizzen spring? I see you tubes where as soon as the flint falls the gun fires, fast as a capper, not so much with this Davis old English lock...

I do like dinkin with it but seems like im in a hard spot here.
When you say the frizzen "almost always hangs" does the flint remain pressing against the frizzen face or, is the underside of the frizzen resting on top of the flint?

If the flint remains with its edge against the frizzen face that can be an indication of a weak mainspring, poor cock geometry, a frizzen spring that is too strong and/or the cam on the frizzen is misshaped or too tall.

If the lock were mine, I would remove the frizzen spring and try cocking and firing the lock with the gun unloaded.

If the flint still hangs up on the frizzen face, the problem is with the cocks geometry.
If it doesn't, the problem is with the frizzen spring or the frizzen cam.

Assuming the flint did not hang up I would first look at the small cam lobe on the bottom of the frizzen.
This will sometimes have a irregularity in the casting causing it to be too tall or to react with the spring poorly.
Smoothing the tip of the cam and reducing its height a little might fix the problem.

Because the frizzen is hardened, this cam repair is best done with a whet stone.

If smoothing and slightly shortening the frizzen cam doesn't fix the problem the next step would be to reduce the width of the frizzen spring.

The amount of change on the spring is a direct function of its width. If the width is reduce 25% the spring will be 25% weaker.
I wouldn't go over about 50% maximum reduction.

A sharp new flat file, a whet stone or a few sheets of black silicon carbide sandpaper backed by a hard flat surface can be used to reduce the spring width.

I do not recommend using heat to modify the frizzen spring.
Heat can temper the spring, causing it to be softer but this will not change the springs resistance to bending.
Steels modulus of elasticity is dependent on the material and is a constant.
(Modulus of elasticity is a measurement of a materials resistance to bending. It does not change whether the steel is soft or hard.
For those who care, the modulus of elasticity of carbon steel is 30 X 10^6 psi)

I suspect Britsmoothy's spring bent because of its soft condition. The problem is, if it bent and wasn't rehardened and tempered properly, it will continue to bend until it reaches a point where the stresses match the springs strength.
This might work fine but it also might end up with a spring that doesn't keep the frizzen closed.

Getting back to the situation where the frizzen ends up sitting on top of the flint, this happens when the flint knocks the frizzen open as the cock falls.
The (often scrolled) end of the frizzen down by the cam hits the frizzen spring and the spring knocks the frizzen back towards a closed position where it comes to rest on top of the flint.
Reducing the frizzen spring pressure can help to eliminate this but not always.

If the frizzen ends up on top of the flint, usually it doesn't have much effect on the reliability of the lock unless it is blocking off part of the vent hole in this "almost closed" condition.
 
Good points zonie :hatsoff:

I don't worry if the frizzen bounces back on top of the fallen cock and flint while testing as when recoil is added it rarely happens.

B.
 
If I don't keep my flint adjusted right the frizzen will not swing open. At half cock I want my flint about 1/16 from the closed frizzen.
 
i think that Zonie is on the right track ... i had a similar problem, which was corrected by aggressive polishing of the little cam under the frizzen ... a half hours work and problem solved.

good luck with your problem, and

Make Good Smoke!
 
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