• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Well it happened, broke my first ramrod.......

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hunting and had a ball fully seated but rod would not come out. My wife laughed and said "shoot it out," so I did. Aimed up about 45 degrees. Rod went about 40 yards... looked like a floo floo [sp?] arrow wobbling along. It was no worse for having made the trip. Polecat
 
1595788396590.png
 
Wow, didnt think this thread was still alive.

My new procedure when hunting is, I'm taking and using the nylon range rod to load the first round when I'm at my truck. This way my hunt will not be jeopardized. I will use the wooden ramrod when afield.

I always use the range rod when sighting in.
 
I have a few range rods I sometimes use, but at least half my range shooting is with the wood doing the seating. I've broken a couple in the past but they were the cheap rods that came with the guns. So far, though, I've yet to break a hickory rod. My doggie managed to break one (cheap ones) years ago.
 
After I broke my ramrod, I made two more. One is in the gun now, amd one is on the deer antler rack downstairs just in case.
 
For those of you who don't know, and especially for those of you who own a Thompson Center rifle, if the wood has "grain runout" there is a very good chance that it will break or shear off along the grain when heavy pressure is applied to it when your loading your gun.
When it does break it will leave a razor sharp point that can easily go completely thru your hand or wrist.

Wood has grain, and the strands of wood fiber grow in layers. If these layers "break out" of the side of the rod they will form a distinctive pattern that is easily seen. If you do see these patterns like the ones in my sketch you really should get a replacement rod.
View attachment 19440

I don't know why but every Thompson Center ramrod I've seen has grain runout. I guess it was because they were more interested in saving a few bucks by using machined dowels rather than wood that was split along the grain to make their ramrods.

Another thing to check on your ramrod is to see if the metal end pieces are pinned onto the wood.
A lot of factory made guns just use glue to hold the ends on and these will often fail because the metal piece pulls off of them.

Pinning the tip isn't hard to do if you have access to a 1/16" drill bit, an electric drill, a flat file, a small hammer, a pocket knife and a piece of 1/16" brass rod (available at most hardware stores).
Drill the hole close to the joint between the metal end and the wood. Use your pocket knife to remove the burrs and to form a small countersink in the metal. Cut off a length of the brass rod and push it thru the hole. Use the hammer to tap the ends of the rod down into the countersunk hole. File off any of the rod ends that stick up above the outside of the metal end.
It should look like this.

View attachment 19441
Thank you for this simple step by step on pinning a rod.
 
I only use Delrin rods for loading, never fiberglass. The fiberglass get worn from use and the strands get into your palm. Ask me how I know. Wood ramrods only for show.
I disagree! I made my first two Hickory wood RRs in the 70s. One for 45 cal and one for 54. Both are still working today. Good wood and working the RR on the sides close to the muzzle with short stokes is the key. I never place my hand over the end. If one wants better than wood, brass or steel is the way to go in my opinion.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top