Traditions .32 cal Crockett kit build

[kansas_volunteer]

It's good to see you are refining the shape of the stock. You recountoured the area around the forend cap and entry thumble almost exactly the way I did mine. It makes a great deal of difference it appearance.

As the kit comes, the lock panels are merely suggested. I reshaped the panel area so they were actually raised panels. At the rear of the panel I had to the blend the work into the wrist.

At the butt wood simply can't be taken down only in the last couple of inches until it blends with the butt plate. You needed to do the blending all the way up to the wrist to get a decent look.

The comb of the stock will need to be lowered at the heel to blend the wood to the tang on top of the butt plate. So, again you will need to start at the front, from the nose, and blend all the way back to make things look right. Looking down from the top you will need to narrow the nose a bit and then carry the lines all the way back to the butt.

Flute the nose.

On my rifle I found the butt swelled in the middle. To check pinch the stock between a thumb and first finger at the wrist and slide them towards the butt. If the stock is swollen you will feel it in you fingers. I took all the swelling out.

Use your fingers a lot to check everything. We used to call pinching things with the fingers using our Polack calipers.

As a result of all the work on the butt its shape had been greatly refined. It was much less club like and very traditional looking. The stock also lost a lot of weight. (I wish I could refine the shape of my own butt and lose weight.)

When doing all the work on the stock I used a flexible ruler to check for flow and smoothness. Without flexing it I could lay the edge on the wood to check if I had straight lines where straight line should be. On the swollen side of the butt the ruler rocked initially. When the the swell was eliminated the edge of the ruler touched wood its full length. The ruler could be flexed over the curved surface of the butt and the lines of the curves could be seen to be smooth or not.

 

[railshot]

Excellent suggestions kansas_volunteer.
I would love to see a picture of yours if you do not mind, or do you have some pictures posted here?

It sounds like you did a significant amount of work to it, as I can see me doing to this one now.
Thanks for adding to this build, and if you see more that I may and probably will miss, please do comment.

 

[Huntschool]

Looks like you still need to "skinny" up those barrel channel sides (about half as thick) like we talked about......

And I really think you could shape the wood around the entry thimble even more.....

Your decision..... Your gun....

Just sayin

 

[railshot]

Looks like you still need to "skinny" up those barrel channel sides (about half as thick) like we talked about......

And I really think you could shape the wood around the entry thimble even more.....

Your decision..... Your gun....

Just sayin

Totally agree, but the old arthritis is starting to act up again, so there will be a short pause on any other work until that gets a bit better.
Really hard to hold a file and sand lately...…..

That is the biggest reason I decided to retire and sell my '88 Pontiac Fiero GT, I just could not work on it anymore.

 

[railshot]

So with a little help from "Granny Clampett’s Rheumatism Medicine" known around here as "Leinenkugul Original", I was able to get a few things done today.... heheheh… Ain't going to stop due to some stupid pains!

Here are a few shots of the stock after I radiused a few areas to fit me...… yes, to fit me.
Nothing other than that was considered during the "fitting"....

Re-stained for the 4th time...… Heheh, I am getting pretty good at matching freshly stained wood to older stains

The stock is oh so much more comfortable to me, and to be honest, looks better.
Earlier someone posted that the shape to start with was "just a suggestion" of what it should be, and that really got me tp thinking.
Am I not trying to recreate a historical weapon, only that I am I making something that fits myself and use.
I win!
LOL, I am trying to make this as comfortable as I can for my specific needs and wants, and be as true as I can to a classic weapon doing so..., so here I am....
I have trimmed the forestock again quite a bit to match the endcap, eliminated the gap between the two (I found that the wood that the endcap mounts to were not cut at the same angle as the stock..... corrected by filing the forward area that the endcap mounts to, and a very small shim on the southern side), and feel I am nearing something I really, really, truly like that fits me.
This does not mean I am looking for more input.
Dang, I want to shoot this thins so bad I had a dream about it last night!

Side note: Yes, I smoke, and yes I have a beer or two....
After all, I am part Inuit! .. so my Grandmother told me..... and she would not tell me a fib would she? heheheh

 

[railshot]

So I tried to edit my post tonight, lol, turned out not to work.... oh well, think I might go ice fishing tomorrow and buy a Henry .22 just for fun... Heheh

 

[railshot]

Hands are sore as heck today, and the weather is telling me to keep working on the Crockett.... decisions, decisions....

 

[kansas_volunteer]

I like that you are going to the trouble of really refining the stock. They certainly don't look traditional as they come in the box. It is quite obvious they were made to be carved fast by a machine, and not made by passionate hands.

All the staining and restraining may seem all wrong to some, but it does allow you to better see the effect of your work.

In the beginning you mentioned sanding the stock. I'm not sure what that involves. You also mention sore hands. Are You using sandpaper alone to shape the stock, or are you using other tools?

Early in my woodworking life, doing some shaping and finishing a Fajen stock for my first center fire rifle, I used nothing but sandpaper, but am happy that 50 years on I now know the value of good tools to do the work. My hands are very arthritic and continually ache. I could never long endure a project like refining gunstock with nothing but sandpaper.

At least one good rasp and a chainsaw file can get you through a Crokett build. The rasp will be useful for removing all the excess wood from the butt and the chainsaw file will work around the lock panels. If you don't have a scraper a few small pieces of broken glass will work wonders.

When it comes to rasps, the more expensive the better. Fifty dollars or more is what a really decent one will cost you, but the one you can buy at any ordinary hardware store will get you by.

As for stain, I first did my Crockett with potassium dichromate, an oxidizer that makes new wood look old. I wanted to see how it would look with walnut stain over it. I still haven't applied the walnut. The stock looks like a weathered barn board.

 

[railshot]

Thanks kansas_volunteer.
I am discovering the need for proper tools on this one.

The first two I built this fall, I used nothing but sandpaper, and it is taking a toll on my arthritic hands now in the middle of this build.

Just this week a bought a cheapo file set, and I am now learning to properly use them, so that will help for sure.
I did look for a Nicholson #49 or #50 rasp, but the local hardware store did not have them.
Not afraid to spend the money, just need to locate them....

When I am satisfied with the Crockett, I am going to revisit the Kentucky kit and the Hawken kit using what I have learned here to improve both on them, so the tools will be had by then for sure.
When I look at both of those with the critical eye I have now thanks to all of you, they are not at all what I want as a finished product!
Much appreciated!

 

[kansas_volunteer]

Thanks kansas_volunteer.
I am discovering the need for proper tools on this one.

The first two I built this fall, I used nothing but sandpaper, and it is taking a toll on my arthritic hands now in the middle of this build.

Just this week a bought a cheapo file set, and I am now learning to properly use them, so that will help for sure.
I did look for a Nicholson #49 or #50 rasp, but the local hardware store did not have them.
Not afraid to spend the money, just need to locate them....

When I am satisfied with the Crockett, I am going to revisit the Kentucky kit and the Hawken kit using what I have learned here to improve both on them, so the tools will be had by then for sure.
When I look at both of those with the critical eye I have now thanks to all of you, they are not at all what I want as a finished product!
Much appreciated!

The Nicholson 49 and 50 probably will have to be mail ordered. I always start with Lee Valley Tools. You could browse their catalog like a favorite book.

Using sandpaper, put a solid backer behind it and use very coarse Garnett paper to remove wood fast. It is almost as good as a staggered tooth rasp. Also it won't cause your fingers to hurt as much as doing without a backer. Broken bottle class makes good scrapers. I still use broken glass even though I have a decent collection of "real" scrapers. Metal scrapers work great on flat surfaces, or convex curves, but not so well on tight concave curves. You can ususally find a piece of bottle glass that will match a tight concave curve pretty well.

 

[railshot]

1 week, 1 day, and many hours later, here we are.

Yesterday I decided to continue on with this little build until I thought it was right for me, so...….
I have reached a point where I really, really, like it.
It fits me comfortably, and I cannot wait to shoot it this winter.

It has been completely sanded again, (8 hours worth of sanding, contouring, scraping, and filing), re-stained, assembled, and as of this morning it has one coat of boiled linseed oil on it.....
And made it's first excursion into the great outdoors.

Unfortunately I cannot discharge a firearm in my back yard, but shooting her is on the very near horizon, and to me, that is the joy of having a muzzleloader in the end.

This is what I have as of this morning before the "Great Blizzard of '18 hits.... heheheh
I like everything about it with the exception of the ramrod, and that will be taken care of tomorrow.

With all of your input and suggestions, I have wound up with a fairly cheap kit gun, that is something I am rather proud of, and will enjoy shooting.

Like any other project, I cannot call it done...… ever, and will be making subtle changes to it as I see the need.
I truly appreciate all the input this past week!

I have learned quite a bit about myself, my abilities, the rifle, and finessing a gun stock.

Now to adjust the nose cap..... (forgot my shim, going to glue it in this time.... lol).
Thank you!

 

[Gowacky]

Reading this again and I just received a new Crockett from Traditions. I have another problem thought as it won’t shoot, but I do recall when opening the box new there was an instruction sheet that said to remember the way the wedge is bent when you remove it and replace it the same way. LOL ... so I don’t think you received an accident.

But I’m curious about the stop that stops the hammer. I’ve read where others have gotten the same rifle and found the same problem ... the hammer want strike the cap. Some say to file it down a bit but one others said it is case hardened metal and if you file it you must know to reharden it.

I hope this other nipple I’m receiving from TOTW will fire mine, otherwise it’s back for some warranty work.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Good job.

 

[railshot]

Reading this again and I just received a new Crockett from Traditions. I have another problem thought as it won’t shoot, but I do recall when opening the box new there was an instruction sheet that said to remember the way the wedge is bent when you remove it and replace it the same way. LOL ... so I don’t think you received an accident.

But I’m curious about the stop that stops the hammer. I’ve read where others have gotten the same rifle and found the same problem ... the hammer want strike the cap. Some say to file it down a bit but one others said it is case hardened metal and if you file it you must know to reharden it.

I hope this other nipple I’m receiving from TOTW will fire mine, otherwise it’s back for some warranty work.

I think I had better take mine out to the garage with a cap and see what it does. (now that I have found the nipple.... heheh).
I had been following your posts on this, and I am curious myself if mine will work, but the rifle has never been together long enough to try a cap.... after I post this, I will try mine and post back here with what happens...… hang on a few minutes.....

Good job.

Thanks Phil, without you and everyone else this would not be "my" rifle as it is now.

 

[crankshaft]

Cheap.....does not give it justice.
Inexpensive is my description.
I was greatly surprised in the quality, equal to my 2 TC.
BTW...it has a cutout for a flint clock.

 

[railshot]

Cheap.....does not give it justice.
Inexpensive is my description.
I was greatly surprised in the quality, equal to my 2 TC.
BTW...it has a cutout for a flint clock.

I totally agree, it is a decent kit, and by cheap I was more talking about $$$ spent for it, not the quality.
Inexpensive is a much better way of putting it as the quality is really not all that bad.

I noticed the cutout, and that is one of the things that attracted me to it to begin with.
Wonder if it could be converted to a flintlock?
I have never shot one of those, and they look like fun to me!

 

[Gowacky]

Railshot, I hope she torched off for you but tell me this ... if you used a #11 CCI cap like I have 2000 of, did you notice how loose the cap fits on the nipple? I rechecked and it’s supposed to take a #11 cap but I wouldn’t hunt with that fit. You can crimp them and they grip the nipple better but I’m going to find a nipple that will hold them firmly right out of the capper.

 

[railshot]

Railshot, I hope she torched off for you but tell me this ... if you used a #11 CCI cap like I have 2000 of, did you notice how loose the cap fits on the nipple? I rechecked and it’s supposed to take a #11 cap but I wouldn’t hunt with that fit. You can crimp them and they grip the nipple better but I’m going to find a nipple that will hold them firmly right out of the capper.

She popped off just fine on 3 of 3 caps....
heheh, made me want to put a load in it and see what would happen.

They were not loose, and I can turn the rifle upside down and bump it without them falling off.
They came off and fell out after firing and pulling the hammer back for the next one also.

Here are the caps I used.

And a shot of the actual cap.

This is my hammer at 1/2 cock.

And one of my hammer fully down.

Not sure if this will help you, but it will give you an idea for what does work at least on mine.

 

[32 ballard xl]

I think you have done a great job on that stock! I especially like that "Roman Nose" look you gave to the buttstock area.

 

[railshot]

I think you have done a great job on that stock! I especially like that "Roman Nose" look you gave to the buttstock area.

Much appreciated.
I think my next project stock has been located...… and it is going to be just a little more complicated than this one... heheh
Which piece shall I choose?