First kit build

[Smokepole_55]

I have owned several ML's in the past. Both Hawkens, (percussion) one in 50 Cal and the other in 54 Cal. I decided I wanted a FL, so I started looking at my options. I decided to start out on the low side and ordered a Traditions Kentucky Rifle kit from ML.com. Well, it arrived yesterday and after laying out the parts to ensure I had all the hardware I needed, I oiled the barrel and set everything on my work bench. One of the things that I was worried about with this kit before I received it, was a severe difference in the types of wood between front and rear woods. Well, this kit was not as bad as some I have seen while researching this kit. So now to get some supplies to begin my build. I am going to blue the barrel , and am going to try to find some stain in a darker reddish color, like maybe a dark cherry, as the grain is not particularly distinguished. I am hoping to disguise the difference between the two different looking woods. I will be documenting the build here and hope to get assistance when I Hit that proverbial stump in the process. I will be posting pics on subsequent posts documenting the process. Game on! After this one I will be setting aside funds along to get a Kibler woodsrunner. Also, any advice or wisdom is welcome at any time, just jump right in.

 

[BillKilgore]

Good luck with the build and post lots of photos.

 

[Fifty Four]

Those kits can be a hoot, and make darned good shooters.
Fit everything together before filing, sanding, or finishing.
Alcohol based stains- or dyes- are the way to go for that beechwood, not oil-based.
Aquafortis will give a nice dark chocolate brown.
The stock will benefit from a good bit of slimming down. Here I'm talking more about the forend, not the butt, which is quite small enough, though it will need to be sanded etc. where it mates with the buttplate.
Consider finishing the barrel with a rust brown or rust blue, instead of cold blue.
If you run into fit issues with the triggerguard, remove small amounts of wood or perhaps brass, instead of trying to bend the part to fit. It will break if you bend it.
Leave your power tools for other projects.
Take your time and have fun.
When you've finished, you'll be ready for that Woodsrunner kit, which is actually much easier to put together.
Did I mention take your time and have fun?

 

[wiscoaster]

.... I will be documenting the build here and hope to get assistance when I Hit that proverbial stump in the process. I will be posting pics on subsequent posts documenting the process. Game on! .....Also, any advice or wisdom is welcome at any time, just jump right in.

A build log needs lots of pics!!

As an author of several build logs that have received mixed reactions, my advice and wisdom would be:
1) Be sure to gratefully acknowledge thoughtful and informative input, whether you make use of it or not.
2) Don't get in arguments defending or justifying your build decisions. You will get differing and conflicting advice, so someone will be miffed when you don't use their "here's how I did it" advice. Just let it slide. There are always multiple ways to get a job done.
3) If you get negative comments, just ignore them. No need to counter them. Again, just let them slide.
4) Repeating advice posted above: take your time and have fun.

Good luck!!

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

You'll find the kibler kit far easier to build.

 

[Smokepole_55]

A build log needs lots of pics!!

As an author of several build logs that have received mixed reactions, my advice and wisdom would be:
1) Be sure to gratefully acknowledge thoughtful and informative input, whether you make use of it or not.
2) Don't get in arguments defending or justifying your build decisions. You will get differing and conflicting advice, so someone will be miffed when you don't use their "here's how I did it" advice. Just let it slide. There are always multiple ways to get a job done.
3) If you get negative comments, just ignore them. No need to counter them. Again, just let them slide.
4) Repeating advice posted above: take your time and have fun.

Good luck!!

TY, sounds like sound advice.

 

[TDM]

Good luck on your build.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I will throw this in after watching several build logs; A Woodsrunner may be the easiest kit on the market to put together, don't put your own spin on the very simple procedures and complicate parts of the process because a "better way" popped into your head. This is a simple process but you can complicate it to the point of failure, you can make a mess of what should have been a fine rifle.

If you watch Jim's videos and don't stray from what he suggests you will have a very easy time assembling this kit.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I will throw this in after watching several build logs; A Woodsrunner may be the easiest kit on the market to put together, don't put your own spin on very simple procedures and complicate parts of the process because a "better way" popped into your head. This is a simple process but you can complicate it to the point of failure, you can make a mess of what should have been a fine rifle.

If you watch Jim's videos and don't stray from what he suggests you will have a very easy time assembling this kit.

AMEN!

 

[Smokepole_55]

Ok have had a couple of days to think and digest as much as possible concerning this build. I have a couple of questions maybe you all could help with before I begin dry fitting everything.
1. I am timid about the drilling of the barrel pins in the forearm. Does anyone have advice for properly measuring and locating these in the forearm?
2. I have read most of what I could find here about the joint between the two stock pieces. I would like to secure them together solid while still using the brass divider. Saw dowel pins, threaded rod and types of adhesives used. not sure how I should proceed at this point here either. I guess i am looking for updated pros and cons of each method used by others. Thank you in advance for your thoughtful input.

 

[TDM]

I made this for marking pin holes. It works good.

 

[Smokepole_55]

I made this for marking pin holes. It works good.

Wow that's perfect, should be easy enough to construct. and with the octagon barrel shouldn't even need the bubble level as the top flat of barrel should be perpendicular to the tab. Many thanks for the idea.

 

[IanH]

Drill press and drill or mill vise. Put barrel top flat against stationary jaw, bring quill down with bit to touch where you want the hole in the tab or to pass through the barrel loop. Adjust vise or table as necessary. Mark perpendicular line through hole on vise jaw and barrel. Install barrel in stock, replace in vise. Check perpendicularity of gun to drill, check alignment of barrel mark to vise mark to make sure barrel is exactly where it was on the vise jaw without the stock. Drill hole through. Rinse and repeat for all barrel pins and ramrod thimbles. Drink coffee.

 

[Smokepole_55]

Drill press and drill or mill vise. Put barrel top flat against stationary jaw, bring quill down with bit to touch where you want the hole in the tab or to pass through the barrel loop. Adjust vise or table as necessary. Mark perpendicular line through hole on vise jaw and barrel. Install barrel in stock, replace in vise. Check perpendicularity of gun to drill, check alignment of barrel mark to vise mark to make sure barrel is exactly where it was on the vise jaw without the stock. Drill hole through. Rinse and repeat for all barrel pins and ramrod thimbles. Drink coffee.

Good stuff! thank you very much. Very well explained... even I understood the process.

 

[pat thompson]

I have owned several ML's in the past. Both Hawkens, (percussion) one in 50 Cal and the other in 54 Cal. I decided I wanted a FL, so I started looking at my options. I decided to start out on the low side and ordered a Traditions Kentucky Rifle kit from ML.com. Well, it arrived yesterday and after laying out the parts to ensure I had all the hardware I needed, I oiled the barrel and set everything on my work bench. One of the things that I was worried about with this kit before I received it, was a severe difference in the types of wood between front and rear woods. Well, this kit was not as bad as some I have seen while researching this kit. So now to get some supplies to begin my build. I am going to blue the barrel , and am going to try to find some stain in a darker reddish color, like maybe a dark cherry, as the grain is not particularly distinguished. I am hoping to disguise the difference between the two different looking woods. I will be documenting the build here and hope to get assistance when I Hit that proverbial stump in the process. I will be posting pics on subsequent posts documenting the process. Game on! After this one I will be setting aside funds along to get a Kibler woodsrunner. Also, any advice or wisdom is welcome at any time, just jump right in.

I stained a stock in just the colour you described. It was my first build and I was 15yrs old. Being a complete greenhorn, I thought back to art class. I looked at various brands of stain and I decided to blend two because I couldn't find exactly what I was after. I chose Minwax stain as it also has some sealing properties. I got a very dark brown and I can't recall the name but it was used for tone. The bulk of it was colonial red. That name has changed (it was over 35yrs ago) but the colour tab on the label shows what it is. I mixed a large batch in a sealable container so I always have the exact blend for future touch ups. I still have it. Follow that up with a final coat or two of Minwax varnish. Remember to get Interior Satin. DO NOT USE EXTERIOR! It would leave that super tacky and sticky finish. Good luck from Ontario

 

[pat thompson]

I stained a stock in just the colour you described. It was my first build and I was 15yrs old. Being a complete greenhorn, I thought back to art class. I looked at various brands of stain and I decided to blend two because I couldn't find exactly what I was after. I chose Minwax stain as it also has some sealing properties. I got a very dark brown and I can't recall the name but it was used for tone. The bulk of it was colonial red. That name has changed (it was over 35yrs ago) but the colour tab on the label shows what it is. I mixed a large batch in a sealable container so I always have the exact blend for future touch ups. I still have it. Follow that up with a final coat or two of Minwax varnish. Remember to get Interior Satin. DO NOT USE EXTERIOR! It would leave that super tacky and sticky finish. Good luck from Ontario

P.s. that darker red with the brass fittings is amazing without being too much tackiness. It was a huge it with my buddies, even their girlfriendds commented. Also test small spots inside the barrel channel and/or under the butt plate until it is what you want. Three coats of stain did it perfectly.

 

[RRidgely52]

I have owned several ML's in the past. Both Hawkens, (percussion) one in 50 Cal and the other in 54 Cal. I decided I wanted a FL, so I started looking at my options. I decided to start out on the low side and ordered a Traditions Kentucky Rifle kit from ML.com. Well, it arrived yesterday and after laying out the parts to ensure I had all the hardware I needed, I oiled the barrel and set everything on my work bench. One of the things that I was worried about with this kit before I received it, was a severe difference in the types of wood between front and rear woods. Well, this kit was not as bad as some I have seen while researching this kit. So now to get some supplies to begin my build. I am going to blue the barrel , and am going to try to find some stain in a darker reddish color, like maybe a dark cherry, as the grain is not particularly distinguished. I am hoping to disguise the difference between the two different looking woods. I will be documenting the build here and hope to get assistance when I Hit that proverbial stump in the process. I will be posting pics on subsequent posts documenting the process. Game on! After this one I will be setting aside funds along to get a Kibler woodsrunner. Also, any advice or wisdom is welcome at any time, just jump right in.

Try using a pre stain conditioner... this will help in an even stain to prevent blotching... just a suggestion

 

[CzarJL]

Absolutely test your stain on an un-seen spot. I have had stain look great on a scrap piece of wood only to look different on the actual stock, testing saved a lot of work.

 

[James Kibler]

AMEN!

And another AMEN! That's one of the best bits of advice I've ever heard!

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

And another AMEN! That's one of the best bits of advice I've ever heard!

You would be the one to know! I'd never have the patience to do what you do.
Done much carving with a pocket knife lately?