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Traditions .32 cal Crockett kit build

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244651BD-C6DE-451F-B940-69F3557CBC9C.jpeg
The barrel should not be free floated. Here’s an example of the nose cap in relation to the barrel channel. Also note the top edge of the wood is as narrow as the nose cap. A few minutes with a file then some sand paper to make the forearm rounded will give a much nicer grip. Ten or twenty minutes is all it takes.
 
Thanks hanshi and Phil for the input....
Extremely appreciated from both of you..... hanshi, now you make me want to go out and shoot again tonight.... but I will wait until I am done building it. heheheh!
I kinda answered my own question just now, heheh, the brass should not be holding the barrel up, only the wedge, so more brass work ahead. What I have found is that the wedge should be able to be inserted around 95% prior to resistance being felt according to Lyman to avoid the stock cracking.
Going for that now!
 
Railshot: so far so good. In my opinion the barrel should fit flat to the inlet in the stock.... Not floating

A suggestion.... you can make this gun look a bit slicker if you file down the upper edge of the barrel channel to the same width as the nose cap. Blend that dimension into the fore arm as you go along. This may mean the removal of more wood from the fore arm itself, ie., you are going to make it a bit skinnier. This may also entail deepening the inlets for the key escutcheons. Then file down the elevated portion of the nose cap and radius that to match the work done on the forearm if need be.

Just some thoughts. I put together a number of CVA Mt. Rifle kits back in the day and you can really make one look sharp with some extra file work.

EDIT: I did not see Phil's post. We are both talking about the same thing......

Just some thoughts.......
 
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Thanks guys!
This is one of the reasons I joined the forum....
I had a best friend I built kits with some time ago, ok, 40 years ago, and we would both suggest improvements and creative ways to improve on our builds..... lord knows where he is now, but it is always good to have someone else look at a project / build and suggest things.

Very much appreciated, and I am going to evaluate what I have now and consider any and all suggestions.
I do like the blending of the nose cap idea..... heheh, here we go again!

The barrel is almost flat on the stock now that I have removed a bunch of brass from the nose cap, so blending does seem to be next.... the rather odd ram rod thimble is going to be my only limiting factor..... pic below.
There is not a lot of wood holding it in place right now, and if I do remove enough stock to make it look sleeker, it would be very thin in that area.

Thimble.jpg
 
All righty then, 2 more beers and I decided to do it tonight!
You were all right on about what needed to be done!

A couple hours of sanding, blending, and then a quick re-stain, here is what I have.
So much better in my book.
Thanks, and if anyone sees anything else, jump in please!

Before shot:

Thimble.jpg


After blending 1

endcap 3.jpg


After blending 2....
I need to even out the right side with the left, but otherwise looking good!
endcap 4.jpg

After blending 3

endcap 5.jpg


So much better!
I am going to do a bit more blending in the morning, but it is looking so much more refined now.
A serious thanks to all that have motivated me.
 
My Hawken 4.JPG


Notice how this fore stock blends bac to the entry pipe.... this is what you are looking for. Remove some of that wood on the front of the curve down on the entry pipe slowly with a file.

Haring gun 4.JPG

You still need to file down the edges of the barrel channel. Get them down to the thickness of the nose cap....

I am going to PM you in the morning..... after 9:30 AM Central time
 
Hey Huntschool, I think I may have sent a pm to you, or myself.... lol if you want to contact me, try [email protected]..... not too worried about posting that here, as I get all kinds of weird email on that one since I have had it for over 20 years and it is pretty obvious..... anytime my friend, anytime....
 
Now you’re moving in the right direction! :thumb: Keep in mind that the file is your friend and many a fine rifle is made with little sand paper used. The factory makes the kits by machines and the finished guns must be finished with power tools to get them done at an attractive price. You have the opportunity to add the graceful details to make the kit truely handsome. Each kit can be a step up from the last.
 
Thanks Phil,
Now I see what everyone is talking about.
This morning I was doing a little online research and came across this on the internet....

https://www.williamsflintlocks.com/david-crockett-rifle/

What a beautiful rifle David Crockett had when he was 17!
This is a reproduction based on one with a pretty valid history behind it as to being his original gun.
I do not think mine will reach this level though sadly...… at least not today... heheh

crockett9.jpg
 
Enjoying your progress, lord that little kit is growing on me... Can't believe it... o_O I must say out of all the mass produced traditions stuff I personally think this little rifle has good appeal for what it is. Now that ALU-MENIUM rod has to go...
 
Thanks Eric Krewson for checking in on me, and that is actually in the plans to swap it out.

I first needed to know the maximum height the replacement could be, so I ground it down until it fit.
Now I can either measure the height, or take it with me when I look for a replacement.
It is a bit ugly as is I have to admit!

Good point though, and appreciated!
 
As long as I am here this morning, I have a quick question maybe some of you can help me with.
My wood working skills and tools are in the beginner stage, and I think I need some good files to help me along.

I have been using nothing but sandpaper for all of my recent kit builds, and think I should get some tools to help me along down the road.
Any suggestions as to what a beginner should have in his kit?
 
Enjoying your progress, lord that little kit is growing on me... Can't believe it... o_O I must say out of all the mass produced traditions stuff I personally think this little rifle has good appeal for what it is. Now that ALU-MENIUM rod has to go...

Thanks Crewdawg445, coming from you that means a lot to me after reading your many posts here, and is very kind of you to say..... thanks for the encouragement.
Now as to the ALU-MENIUM rod, it is going to be replaced for sure.

Huntschool and I had a very nice lengthy phone conversation yesterday, and I learned a lot from him, so here is a public thank you for your time!
Your suggestions will be taken into consideration, and implemented to the best of my ability!
 
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