Removing breech plug...barrel keeps spinning.

[bjarard]

Any tips to get a barrel to stay put from turning when I'm trying to remove the breech plug? TRS said I'd be able to remove it with an adjustable wrench...but its in there good! When looking down at the plug, removal is counter clockwise...correct?

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

SOLVENT - Plug the barrel touch-hole and drip a 50-50 mix of acetone and Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) to the breech plug threads, as work exponentially BETTER than Kroil, PB Blaster or any other penetrating fluid ... but they can help too. Try this for a few days prior to removal ... only need a little, no need to make a mess ...

JAWS - Add thick leather to the jaws and wrap the barrel in blue tape, with an aggressive metal paper side with the grit to the tape. Be AWARE of the barrel position and STOP if you think it rotates, to ensure you're not harming the barrel finish. Note that jaws with a tapered slot/groove would hold/grip more surface area and that is what you need.

VICE - That pattern maker's vice is not up to the task ... you're barely holding on maybe 1/16" of area on each side of the barrel and I highly doubt that Acme thread on that positioning vice is up to the clamping force, like you would get from a large metal-working vice.

OTHER - Sometimes heating the breech end warm/hot and immediately immersing into cold water can help break the seal, due to differing coefficients of expansion from the barrel to the plug.

TOOL - Get a longer wrench or add a cheater bar, you need a longer LEVER arm (leverage) ...

 

[64Springer]

Right Tighty-Lefty Loosy.

This should be taught to every boy and girl in kindergarten.

In between animal crackers and nap time.

PS: Pulling the wrench by hand may not work. Snug that wrench down and smack it with a hammer. Breaking that seal.

Make a set of wooden vise blocks to secure the barrel. The hole in the block is exactly the size of the barrel. Make the block. Drill the hole. Then cut the block in half.

 

[Eutycus]

Right Tighty-Lefty Loosy.

This should be taught to every boy and girl in kindergarten.

In between animal crackers and nap time.

PS: Pulling the wrench by hand may not work. Snug that wrench down and smack it with a hammer. Breaking that seal.

Like a cap on a whiskey bottle

 

[64Springer]

And 99% of everything else in this world that has a set of threads.

 

[Felix the Cat]

I use lead clams in my machine vice to hold the barrel and a sash cramp to grab the plug (with a tapered key if needed)..

Has worked up to now!

 

[waksupi]

Right Tighty-Lefty Loosy.

This should be taught to every boy and girl in kindergarten.

In between animal crackers and nap time.

PS: Pulling the wrench by hand may not work. Snug that wrench down and smack it with a hammer. Breaking that seal.

Make a set of wooden vise blocks to secure the barrel. The hole in the block is exactly the size of the barrel. Make the block. Drill the hole. Then cut the block in half.

Then add pine rosin to the contact surfaces.

 

[Mgbruch]

You need a bench vice with metal jaws. You will need to use sheet copper or aluminum between the barrel and vice jaws to protect the barrel. The vice you're using is for wood work, not heavy metal work. For your task I use a heavy six inch bench vice. Use some oil, clamp it tight, and make sure your barrel is protected, because it will still try to turn.

 

[2 shots]

this being a round barrel a good barrel vise or at the very least hardwood blocks as mentioned .it dont pay to mess around and scar it up.

 

[Scota@4570]

Make the blocks out of maple. Make them fit the barrel by sanding them. Use the barrel with sandpaper around the barrel but further toward the muzzle. Look for as close to 100% contact as you can get. Yes, use rosin. Get a real vice.

 

[deerstalkert]

may we ask why you are removing the breech plug? sometimes things are marred needlessly.
barrels and breech plugs rank high on that list.

 

[Whitworth]

Then add pine rosin to the contact surfaces.

You beat me to it. I have an old block from trying my hand at fiddle playing years ago. A pitcher's rosin bag should provide what you need.

 

[S.Kenton]

I’ve had to also use a 14 “ cheater bar to give me that extra umph when breaking a breech plug loose.

 

[Sam squanch]

Drive it down to Oklahoma and make them do it…..

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Go to the local hardware store and get a piece of aluminum flat stock about 1/16" or so. Make a couple of little clips to fit between the plug and the wrench to keep from marring the plug. All this in addition to the advise above. The most important being why are you removing the breech plug? If there is no problem don't create one by trying something you don't need to do.

 

[64Springer]

My guess is the OP is trying to determine where the breech plug ends so he can drill a touch/vent hole.

If that's the reason, insert a rod down the bore until it touches the plug, make a mark on the rod at the muzzle, then lay the rod alongside the barrel to see where the plug face is.

Then drill a hole.

 

[CuNosecap]

Not an expert so help me here. I thought (based on a whole lot of reading) that you had to remove breech plug to properly seat barrel, as first step to inletting. Is this not the case for builds that need barrel inletting(nonKiblers)?

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

https://ricebarrels.com/product/barrel-vise-jaws/
https://ricebarrels.com/product/breech-plug-wrench/
I highly recommend and use both myself.

 

[Mgbruch]

When working from a blank, some remove the breech plug to inlet the barrel, and some don't. I get the impression that most do. I do. Can't speak to the other way. I've built eleven rifles from a blank, and that sequence works for me.

 

[CuNosecap]

What about preinlet stocks, nonKibler? Do most remove, or leave plug in place to seat barrel?