• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Pedersoli 10 gauge true bore size?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NorthFork

40 Cal.
Joined
Aug 26, 2018
Messages
1,932
Reaction score
2,715
I recently purchased a new Pedersoli 10 gauge. This one in fact-

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...t_name/PS1030+PEDERSOLI++MAGNUM+SHOTGUN,+10GA
In the description it says .775" bore, right barrel is cylinder, and left barrel is modified. Well I've carefully measured the bore at the muzzle of both barrels. I get .765" for the right and .753" for the left. IF the bore is truly .775", this would mean I have an IMPROVED cylinder and modified choked gun. That said I've heard that Pedersoli bore diameters (like many Euro shotguns) are slightly different than their American counterparts. Does anyone have a Ped 10 gauge? If so are the bores truly .775" Thanks.
 
2018 CT date code ....their cheap digital calipers, but seems right to me...claims to be cylinder bore and improved cyl....mines the waterfowl version... basically same gun diff side plates and hammers
 

Attachments

  • 20230413_204654.jpg
    20230413_204654.jpg
    529.3 KB · Views: 0
  • 20230413_204805.jpg
    20230413_204805.jpg
    513.9 KB · Views: 0
I recently purchased a new Pedersoli 10 gauge. This one in fact-

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...t_name/PS1030+PEDERSOLI++MAGNUM+SHOTGUN,+10GA
In the description it says .775" bore, right barrel is cylinder, and left barrel is modified. Well I've carefully measured the bore at the muzzle of both barrels. I get .765" for the right and .753" for the left. IF the bore is truly .775", this would mean I have an IMPROVED cylinder and modified choked gun. That said I've heard that Pedersoli bore diameters (like many Euro shotguns) are slightly different than their American counterparts. Does anyone have a Ped 10 gauge? If so are the bores truly .775" Thanks.
You asked a specific question. Here is my best answer. My Pedersoli 10 gauge (1981) measures .770 in both barrels, as close as I can make out. It is cylinder, cylinder.

(Not your question): Your measurments suggest that you gun may well be cylinder and modified, or light modified. (10 gauge chokes require more constriction than 12 gauge, and manufacturers have their own specs, which vary in response to a number of different factors. Bore size can vary as well. My 2004 Pedersoli 12 gauge measured just over .729, while my 1970's 12's range from .708 to .711 and like 13 gauge wads. i forget the bore measurments on my 2006 20 gauge, but it does like 19 gauge wads. Go figure!)
 
Ped smoothies can have varying bore sizes. My supposedly 12 ga. Brown Bess was actually an 11 g. I had a Ped sxs shotgun, supposedly 12 ga. that was actually 14 ga. Good luck loading those choked bores.
 
Chokes are proportionate to bore diameter. A 16 gauge or 20 gauge barrel will have less constriction than a 10 or 12 gauge. A little Googling will turn up charts of choke constrictions for degree of choke and gauge.
I think you will find the difference between 10g and 12g degrees of constriction are commonly zero.
Even a 16g full is only .005" difference to a 12g full!
What this has to do with the op's original question is beyond me.
 
Britsmoothie, it may be common, as there is a considerable range in how chokes are dimensioned between makers. The difference between 10 and 12 gauge bore diameters is only about .05". I have books on the shelf, and given more time than I presently wish to spend Googling, can find online references, supporting what I said, and simple logic indicates that a smaller bore diameter will be constricted by a lesser amount to achieve the same effect. What this has to do with is a followup question, which I quoted.
 
Britsmoothie, it may be common, as there is a considerable range in how chokes are dimensioned between makers. The difference between 10 and 12 gauge bore diameters is only about .05". I have books on the shelf, and given more time than I presently wish to spend Googling, can find online references, supporting what I said, and simple logic indicates that a smaller bore diameter will be constricted by a lesser amount to achieve the same effect. What this has to do with is a followup question, which I quoted.
You initially stated there is a difference between 12g &10g. Not really.
Between 10g and a .410" yes, roughly half relatively but that would be comparing apples to oranges....read a pointless and useless point, no?
I have omitted typing in bold print, I assume you like me have your reading glasses on. Please say if otherwise.
 
That's a new one on me!
Where did get this information please?
I first learned about it from a higher end gunsmith, although we were looking at chokes for 20 gauge .013 was roughly equivalent to .020 in 12 gauge. I did look at a table at some point (probably from Briley), but it was about 20 years ago. Trouble is, when steel shot began to be required for waterfowl here, consistency in choking went out the window.

Here's a link to a lot of infomation, it includes a chart comparing 12 and 20 bore (careful attention to the decimal point is important): shotgun chokes chart - Google Search
 
I first learned about it from a higher end gunsmith, although we were looking at chokes for 20 gauge .013 was roughly equivalent to .020 in 12 gauge. I did look at a table at some point (probably from Briley), but it was about 20 years ago. Trouble is, when steel shot began to be required for waterfowl here, consistency in choking went out the window.

Here's a link to a lot of infomation, it includes a chart comparing 12 and 20 bore (careful attention to the decimal point is important): shotgun chokes chart - Google Search
Thanks but the original statement was referring to the difference between 10g and 12g which is next to zero in relative restrictions or constrictions. Throw in a few thou between barrel diameters and there is no difference.
I concur that going from 12g to 20g, a drop in diameter of .100" or more then yes the relative values change.
 
Sorry I have NOT replied to my own thread. Turkey season quickly came shortly after posting my question and it quickly consumed all my time. Then the Pedersoli 10 gauge broke after only 6 shots. So here are some of my thoughts-

@Britsmoothy and @wilded I examined the barrels very carefully with a light and a fly tying magnifier. The marks Britsmoothy referenced concerning bore diameter are not present on mine. However it seems to be a true 10 gauge as 10 gauge wads and cards fit correctly.

@Rifleman1776 and @Britsmoothy Concerning loading of wads and cards through what appears to be a true 10 gauge with an improved cylinder and modified choked barrels, I had no real issues with the common cushion wads, nitro cards, thin felt wads, or overshot cards. The nitro cards did need to be inserted on edge. Otherwise no problems. Britsmoothy's way of thin o/s cards was a godsend. More on that in a bit.

On the sixth shot the left lock's tumbler broke the full cock notch. I have been able to find one for $51.95 shipped from Flintlocks Etc. I'll have it Tuesday. I also sent a polite email to Pedersoli explaining the issue. They got back with me a day after I bought the tumbler from Flintlocks Etc. They seem willing to ship one to me for free. So I should end up with two left tumblers for the price of one. Don't have a clue as to how the original broke.

As for the general condition and cosmetics of the gun, it is very, very nicely put together. No real complaints on fit/finish. We all know how Pedersoli can royally muck things up. Mine has silver coin finished locks with a waterfowl scene, silver coin finished tang, blued trigger guard, silver coin finished trigger plate, blackened triggers, and 'browned' barrels with twin brass beads. Now we all know Pedersoli's 'browning' is some form of ceracoat and it usually looks ok to very poor. However mine is different. It appears as though the exterior of the barrels was bead blasted and then ceracoated. This gives the ceracoat some texture. It also appears as though maybe they are using either a different shade of brown or applying it differently. It actually strongly looks like real rust browning.

As for patterns and poa/poi issues. Nitro cards and cushion wads are a 100% no go. They blow patterns to the point of un-usefullness. Including the SkyChief method. I mean truly terrible regardless of powder charge or shot size or amount. Good news is both barrels shoot to the same poi in both elevation or windage. This has always been one of my real concerns with sxs and over/unders. The other good news is Britsmoothy's method of powder + 4 thin cards/overshot cards with a touch of lube+ shot + 1 overshot card works fantastic. Great patterns from both barrels. I also discovered utuber capandballs method of powder + cornmeal + shot + 1 overshot card produces excellent patterns as well. You may ask how I was able to test the left barrel after the sixth shot. Well I had a trusted friend with me who held the hammer back at full cock while I held the left barrel's trigger back. After I acquired proper sight picture, I said "now" and he released the hammer. We did this with the upmost safety in mind and it was barely doable but we made it work.

So, I think it will be an excellent hunting arm after I replace the tumbler. I'm not happy that the tumbler broke so quickly but this is the first lock I've broken in roughly 33 years so I'll chalk it up to 'things happen'. Interestingly enough though, my serial number starts with a 'K'. This would indicate that maybe mine is a kit gun. I bought it new from Dixie. Maybe there is some truth to the Dixie versions of Pedersoli's being kit guns assembled at Dixie??
 
Back
Top