Okay, maybe I'm naive here...but I've read several times in ML Mag about "hide glue." What is it? I have the wing bones from my gobbler and the sinew from my deer...now I need the glue to hold it all together. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hide glue question.
- Thread starter Jim Vatt
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It is glue made from animal collagen. Has to be used hot/warm. You can buy it here, but I recommend the dry pellet form. After mixing with water and heating to the thickness desired, you can save left over in your fridge.
http://www.woodcraft.com/ All I have used is clear, and looks exactly like clear epoxy. Obviously, it is not water proof.
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I have a synthetic version that's called Hide Glue (by Titebond) but is merely close. Hide glue is still used by instrument makers (violins, guitars, etc.) and some still swear by it for chair spindles. Like Wick said, it's the long protein strands that set up and make it a superior glue when dry . . . if kept dry.
Martin, As long as your using body parts from game you have taken, make the glue from your deer hide. Take the raw hide and let it dry rock hard, scrape very thin shavings from it, or You could grind some off with a rasp, course grit sand paper, and the like. Boil it down with some clean water till its about like thick syrup. You can strain it or not. It works. Good luck! :thumbsup:
Robby
Robby
I thought that was made from plants?gblacksmith said:
Yeah. I think that is/was made from flax seed.
Hide glue is like Knox unflavored gelatin overcooked. In fact, back to Martin, if you cooked down some extra sinew and the deer hoves without burning it you'd get a thick paste to coat the wrapped sinew . . . and one really ruined pot.
We used Knox gelatin in the film industry to emuslify the chemials to the paper. Walking through the emulsion plant you'd come out sticky from the airborne gelatine dust. Maybe some unflavored gelatin (basically collegin) mixed thick and rubbed in good will work?
Hide glue is like Knox unflavored gelatin overcooked. In fact, back to Martin, if you cooked down some extra sinew and the deer hoves without burning it you'd get a thick paste to coat the wrapped sinew . . . and one really ruined pot.
We used Knox gelatin in the film industry to emuslify the chemials to the paper. Walking through the emulsion plant you'd come out sticky from the airborne gelatine dust. Maybe some unflavored gelatin (basically collegin) mixed thick and rubbed in good will work?
Black Hand
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Martin Greenhorn said:
I like cutlers resin (beeswax, pine-pitch and fine ground charcoal) as the adhesive for wingbone calls. I wrap with sinew at the joint, allow the sinew to dry and then coat the joint with the cutlers resin. One advantage is that it is water-proof.
Mucilage is made from gum arabic and/or gum tragacanth in water (sometimes with other stuff).
troutabout
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I have repaired and rebuilt fiddles since the late 90's and hide glue is all that's used. Not the Permatex stuff in the bottle but the granules. It is mixed with filtered water heated to 140 degrees - to the consistency of honey and dries brittle glass-hard. That's why it is favored for wooden instruments. It has superior sound transfer qualities and a joint of hide glue will break apart without shredding the wood surfaces.
Some of the 4000 year old chairs in the Egyptian tombs were assembled with hide glue and the joints are still sound. But yes - it is for dry environments and in a hot car that reaches near 140 degrees a guitar or fiddle will flat bust open and pull apart.
Some of the 4000 year old chairs in the Egyptian tombs were assembled with hide glue and the joints are still sound. But yes - it is for dry environments and in a hot car that reaches near 140 degrees a guitar or fiddle will flat bust open and pull apart.
Martin: didn't you ever hear the joke about sending the old horse off to the glue factory? They took the hide- raw, the hooves, etc and ground it all up and boiled it a couple of days until it all dissolved into.....HIDE GLUE. It is very strong and great for furniture and indoor use but being water soluable- it is not waterproof. That said, I have used it in limited applications for outdoor gear that hasn't been soaked and so far so good. As a test I was doing, I used it to line a hunting pouch. I then soaked the pouch. The liner seperated in a couple of spots but I stuffed the pouch tight with fillers and the liner re-glued itself in place.
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