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Waxing a stock

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dikman

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I just refinished a stock (my first ever attempt at such) and used several coats of boiled linseed oil. Every now and then I get it out and polish it with a terry-towelling cloth, but I was wondering about giving it a coat of wax to further seal it and buff it up.

Is this a practical idea, or will I have problems using wax over linseed oil?
 
"...will I have problems using wax over linseed oil? "


No problem but be sure to let the linseed oil dry at least a week or two. The wax coating over it will slow its drying.

A wax coating will add a lot of protection against water to a linseed oil surface so I think it is a good idea.

Although a modern "clear coat" car wax can be used, it has a habit of getting into small crevices or, in the case of an open grain wood like walnut, it gets into the open pores where it will dry into a ugly white color that's hard to get rid of.

A good old fashioned wax like Johnson's Paste Wax usually doesn't turn white when it dries and it provides good protection. It's pretty cheap too.

Some museums use some very expensive waxes to protect their wooden items (including gun stocks).
If you've got the money, you might want to try one of them.

I'm sure someone will mention the names of these expensive waxes. :)
 
I also have wondered about this. I also will be interested in reading this thread. Thanks for posting this question
 
I like Johnson's Paste wax as well. There's another that's pretty good too called Howard's Paste wax.
 
Mylands.......comes in colors, and can be used on ANY wood you want to protect......one can will last years.....

Marc n tomtom
 
Are you talking about Brazilian stocks? :blah:

Enough frivolity.

I have a few different waxes - furniture (smells like lavender), leather and some I made myself, although this one is a bit hard. It's been about three weeks since the last oil coat, so I may give it a try, perhaps with the unscented furniture polish - although the lavender would make the gun safe smell nice :haha: .

I'm aware of Renaissance Wax, but it's expensive and personally I don't think it's warranted for something that is handled a lot. Also, it apparently contains polyethylene wax and there have been reports about difficulty removing it. I would prefer to use a more "natural" product, which most waxes are.
Johnson's Paste Wax would be a good choice, but it's not available here in Oz, although lots of people keep asking about it!
 
I used to be a big fan of Goddard's cabinet wax for some of wood bows. A bit pricey but nice to work with and seals, buffs out, and protects wood well. Been a while since I could find it locally.
 
I would use Howards Paste Wax on it. It is the best waterproofing wax I have found for gunstocks. It doesn't leave white residue in the cracks & etc. of the carvings. You can get it on-line several places if you Google it. Bri-wax is good for guns inside, but is not waterproof & will water spot if it gets rained on. Renaissance Wax is good to, & what most of the museums use on their guns.
But I prefer Howard's for the hunting rifles.

Keith Lisle
 
Unfortunately, the Howard's wax is something like 3x the price you guys pay!
 
You may be right, but I just have a bit of a problem paying $45+ for what is a relatively small can of wax, the contents of which are nothing special.
 
I think it is $ 13.99 at Woodcrafts. Course if you are out of the USA, it could be an cost issue.
If that is the case, best to have somebody bring you a can of it.

Keith Lisle
 
Renaissance Wax. Worth every penny. If it wasn't, the big museums wouldn't be using it. You can find it many places. Dixie, for one, carries it. I think Brownell's does, too. Sometimes you can find it in fine furniture stores. It is a bit expensive but a small can will last years. I use it. It's good stuff. :thumbsup:
 
Actually, Renaissance wax is a microcrystalline wax. Microcrystalline waxes are a type of wax produced by de-oiling petrolatum, as part of the petroleum refining process. It is characterized by the fineness of its crystals in contrast to the larger crystal of paraffin wax. The elastic and adhesive characteristics of microcrystalline waxes are related to the non-straight chain components which they contain. Typical microcrystalline wax crystal structure is small and thin, making them more flexible than paraffin wax.
 
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