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Waxing rifle stocks

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Mike in FL

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I keep seeing where kit builders (Kibler) are using wax over what ever they finished the stock with. My question is why they do it? Surely the coats of whatever they used as a finish brought out the grain and Protected the wood from moisture. I realize the initial stain is not necessarily a moisture barrier, but don't we all add water protection and shine with products that only stain. Why then wax it? Does wax add more shine to an already smooth stock even though we have achieved the amount of luster we wanted whether from oil or poly? I ask because my recent Killer build is definitely protected from whatever wIthout using wax.
All that said I do Wax my completed cedar arrows, not for more Shine/luster bubut
 
Many of us stain and then oil the stock, I use boiled linseed oil. That does not protect against liquids getting into the pores. Wax helps seal the exterior from any liquids. Many of us learned the hard way by taking out a newly finished rifle and then getting fouling water streaked across it when cleaning. Some finish oils contain a polymer that creates a surface seal when used.
 
Unless the oil you use has some varnish or polyurethane mix to it, the oil adds luster and grain pop, but only protects so far. Wax helps add luster and some moisture protection and is renewable, meaning you can repair and replace it periodically.
I like adding the wax as it gives the oil finish a little depth and protection.
 
That makes sense. But if the oil is not a protectant, there must be another reason to use it. We hear the phrase 'oil finish' but it would seem it is not a finish at all if further steps are needed. I must be missing something. Also, surely we wouldn't rely on the temporary protection of wax as our only water barrier. I don't imply it is a mistake or useless, it's just that I don't get it. However that's not important. Just asking.
 
That makes sense. But if the oil is not a protectant, there must be another reason to use it. We hear the phrase 'oil finish' but it would seem it is not a finish at all if further steps are needed. I must be missing something. Also, surely we wouldn't rely on the temporary protection of wax as our only water barrier. I don't imply it is a mistake or useless, it's just that I don't get it. However that's not important. Just asking.
An interesting discovery I made about gun waxing.
You know how sometimes that black fowling water comes out of the touch hole when you’re cleaning the barrel? Many a stock has been stained terribly by it as it unwittingly dribbles down the wrist and over the comb…
I found that with a nice wax finish, the drippings out of the touch hole and onto the wrist will wipe away without any trace of discoloration. Not a selling point, just a perk.
 
....We hear the phrase 'oil finish' but it would seem it is not a finish at all if further steps are needed. ....
Well, I think maybe your're reading too much into the word "finish". Finish maybe in terms of final appearance with respect to color and lustre. Wax isn't really an extra "final" step but just used to enhance the previous step. But oil is never really finished anyway. It needs to be renewed from time to time. Just this morning I spent some time applying another coat of BLO to a milsurp rifle (unmentionable here) made in 1933 because, to me, the wood stock was looking a little "dry". It spruced it up quite a bit. The only "finish" that's really "final" is some kind of polyurethane, and I really don't think you want that kind of finish on any 18th century firearm, do you?
 
I wax all mine at least once a year or maybe sometimes two. I use Johnson's Paste Wax and really like it. More frequently, after each post shooting cleaning job I wipe the entire rifle down with a cloth dampened with Type "F" tranny fluid. For decades that has protected both wood and metal (externally) and looks good as well.
 
Did you know they don't make it any more? Real bummer. Was the best paste wax out there. If you can still find a supply, stock up!!
That explains why it is $60 a can I just got a can of Mcguires for $12 it is carnauba like Johnsons It will be used on all my guns
 
The stuff i have is really old like 45 years or so. still good and is a yellow brown color that mimics aging. Rubbed in it seems to dry in a day or less and even adds a bit of tactile feel and grip to surfaces.
 
Minwax Special Dark furnature wax , is the best I've used over my final finish. I call it a" Maintainance " step. There is no wood finish , that can be easily applied , that doesnt need a Maintainance coating , like a good wax can impart. I don't do it every time I clean my favorite rifles from the range , or hunt , but once a year , or so gives me peace of mind. .....oldwood
 
I use Briwax. It's carnauba-based, so it gives a very hard finish. I guess it is available in the USA?
I also find that a waxed finish over oil gives added grip on my pistols.
 
We hear the phrase 'oil finish' but it would seem it is not a finish at all if further steps are needed.
You need to use a “drying oil”. Tung oil is what is referenced to by the phrase “oil finish“.
Research the qualities of “Tung Oil” its traditional gun stock finish.
It is expensive and labor intensive to apply, time consuming to build up dried layers to create a finish with depth. Tung oil is still the best.
All new products are purposed designed to avoid the expense, labour and time do apply a good of Tung oil finish. But those finishes are not as good.
If a Tung oil finish is damaged you just reapply more Tung Oil.
A high gloss finish can be achieved with many built up layers or made to a softer satin finish by rubbing the gloss down with Rotten Stone.
 
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