Traditions St. Louis Hawken 4-H build

[rcbif]

After lots of waiting for a gpr that never showed up I finally got my rifle for my muzzleloader 4-h project so I'm getting started. It's the St.Louis Hawken rifle. I'm making a build album to have and show the judge so I got lots of pics. This is my first rifle build so I'm going to need some help too. Feel free to make suggestions, because now I'm going on common sence but you guys got experience. Well, getting started...............

all the parts layed out

first road block

getting rid of some wood in the way

perfect! just not screwed down(i'll do that later0

not fitting

there was some metal in the way

still snug so...

snug fit!

only half fit in the grove

after some time with a dremel

I'd like to know what the person was thinking when they cut this grove, it's over .5 cm too short

dremel again

good fit!

thats it for day 1

 

[rabjr]

Looking good rcbif but you might want to try using hand tools and put that dremel away. Sooner than later it's gonna run away on ya and ruin an inlet.

 

[rcbif]

thanks! I'm not worried about the dremel ruining anything. It's relatively low power, so low it took me about 15min to inlarge that trigger guard slot. I think that's about all I need it for anyways.

 

[rcbif]

First question, how should I sand down the stock where the nose cap is? Not sure to taper it to the cap or just smoothe the edge?(pics for refrence)

or

 

[AeroncaTAL]

You could probably go with either option. I took the forearm down flush to the nose cap on my GPR, however looking at my daughters CVA, it has a slight rounded bevel similar to your option #2. My son's T/C has a slight tapered bevel like option #1. The right way is going to be what looks right to you. Great pics on the project. Just be happy that there was too little wood taken out instead of too much!
Scott

 

[jeepwj992002]

Your project is looking good so far. Just remember to take your time like you would when building an RC Car. :thumbsup:

 

[bramble]

RCBIF

looking good!

There is a method to the madness of slots being too small. Short slots are easy to remedy. If they cut one too long, well then you have a problem.

I second the go-slow recommendation. A friend was in a hurry and used a rasp to take the stock down. It slipped. By the time he'd sanded out the teethmarks from the rasp he didn't have much wood left.

Enjoy it, and walk away from it for a while if it starts feeling like work.

bramble

 

[cowpoke1955]

I just built the same kit for my future son-in-law. I tapered the fore arm to the nose cap. Another thing to keep in mind. I had to bend the barrel wedge pin slightly to secure the barrel properly. I also took the patch box lid to a trophy shop and had my futuer son-in-law's name engraved. It didn't cost much and it put a personal touch to it. Remember, don't rush things. You'll have a good shooting rifle soon enough :thumbsup: . By the way, welcome :hatsoff:

 

[Zonie]

Gently taper the wood to match the nosecap.
Try to start the taper back at least 3 inches from where the metal starts. (4-6 inches would be better).

At first, do not sand the wood with the nosecap removed. In order to protect the nosecap, try putting one layer of masking tape on it and try to avoid sanding the tape. You will sand it occasionally but removing the few scratches will come later.
When the wood is almost matching the metal, then remove the nosecap and slowly remove the little wood that remains, replacing the nosecap often to check on the progress. When your finished, there should be no step that you can feel with your finger or see.

Ain't this fun???

zonie

 

[paulvallandigham]

I want the taper to begin at the entry pipe at the rear of the ramrod " slot ". Otherwise, you get kind of a naval musket look to the stock, that is bulky, and not the pleasingly graceful line of a fine Kentucky rifle. This is a personal choice, so use your eye, and taper this the way it looks good to you. The ramrod does not require steep sides on the ramrod slot to guide it through the ferrules, or the entry pipe. By tapering from the entry pipe forward, you remove a lot of wood that otherwise makes the forestock look pretty square and bulky, not graceful.

 

[d.thomson]

I don't know about you kit but on my GPR in order to fit the lock properly, the lock had to be cocked. It might be defrent with yours I never built a Traditions. Buy the pics it looks like you got the lock to fit preaty good. :thumbsup: F.K.

 

[rcbif]

Thanks for all the comments! I was thinking about having my last name ingraved somewhere on it but didnt think about the patchbox, good idea. I might work on it tonight after work but might not have time, my 4-h club is having a hotdog roast. :v

 

[rcbif]

One question before I start sanding to the nose cap, do I use a sanding block or just the paper? thanks!

 

[rcbif]

I just decided to go for it and it turned out good, I'll post pics later. Found out today when I opened a plastic bag that I'm missing the wood screws for the nose cap and the butt plate. I e-mailed traditions, so hopefully they can get me those screws.

 

[Kentuckywindage]

You wont get an email back. The best way to get the screws is by calling them.

 

[50cal.cliff]

There email is down. Don't know what the problem is there. Call them 1-800-526 9556. You will have to go thru the ususal button punch responce thing but eventually will get a person. Have model and serial number for the gun which you are requesting parts. Also there will be a part number for that particular part shown on the schematic. Helpful if you have all these before you make call. They sent me missing part thru the US postal, took 2-3 wks. to get them. There customer service was excellent, except delivery time was somewhat slow. :grin:
Biggest thing don't get discouraged! I built this same kit in a 50 cal.. I had my share of problems, but none that couldn't be overcome. This forum was extremely helpful. One helpful hint sometimes its better to ask a question, the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask!
On mine I tapered the wood to the nose piece, much like Zonie said. Good luck and holler to the camp anytime!

 

[rcbif]

Thanks, I'll give them a call monday. I am going to blue some parts today, any suggestions other than what the bottle says? When I dampen the cloth with the solution and wipe it on, how long should I wait before I wipe it off with a dry cloth? Will anything be noticible if I overlap? Any tips appreciated, I got a day off work, want to get some stuff done. I'm also showing off my muzzleoading/shooting skills to the other non 4-h members that use the club which we shoot at tonight.

 

[rcbif]

almost forgot, should I blue the barrel tang?

 

[kansas_volunteer]

Just a couple of hints: always use a sandiing block. I sometimes use a piece of 1x2 wood cut the length of a sheet of sandpaper and wrap long strips of paper around it and use it to get long flat surfaces blended. You might use it on the fore end of your kit to get a long smooth rather than abrupt taper toward the nose cap.

I'm assuming you are using cold blue on your rifle. Apply it with an acid brush and keep working it until it turns into a foamy ugly mess. YOu'll know when the color gets nasty enough. Wipe it off and repeat as needed, and use the technique to blend splotches. Four or five coats will get you an excellent blue. An acid brush is one of those little brushes with a metal handle and about half an inch of bristle sticking out.

 

[rcbif]

I blued my rail and barrel tang today.The acid brush worked great, thanks :thumbsup: . They both came out pretty nice. I'll do the barrel tommorrow if I have time.