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The lock appears to have had the bolster cutout filled in very neatly, if my eyes don’t deceive me.
The use of the bridle screw hole could be a future problem if the screw’s not stepped and tightens the bridle to the plate, those two screws take a lot of stress, that’s why there’s alway two at the top (99% of the time anyway).
 
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The lock appears to have had the bolster cutout filled in very neatly, if my eyes don’t deceive me.
The use of the bridle screw hole could be a future problem if the screw’s not stepped and tightens the bridle to the plate, those two screws take a lot of stress, that’s why there’s alway two at the top (99% of the time anyway).
Might be flash outline from plate being under the breechplugs "flap" or whatever its called. This rifle was a put together is in the simplest way using what was available, Id shoot it a bunch and see what it will do before modifying further,
 
Might be flash outline from plate being under the breechplugs "flap" or whatever its called. This rifle was a put together is in the simplest way using what was available, Id shoot it a bunch and see what it will do before modifying further,
Having had another good look, I’d agree, never thought of that before.
We live and learn :)
 
I do have a similar rifle built from T/C parts. The builder was convinced that the modern (coil mainspring) made for an excellent lock, so the lock, triggers, trigger guard, tang and breech plug are T/C. The nose cap, sights were made by the builder. No under rib. I added a vernier tang peep sight to go with the globe front sight. It does have threaded holes for a scope mount. Based on the builder's research, he used a Sharon barrel. Very accurate rifle to send a ball where you want it to go. It does look like what it is, a Northwest Florida Panhandle Special from 1979.
 
The use of the bridle screw hole could be a future problem if the screw’s not stepped and tightens the bridle to the plate, those two screws take a lot of stress, that’s why there’s alway two at the top (99% of the time anyway).

Howdy, The screw that goes through the bridle screw hole is not stepped. I put a centering punch through the original lock mounting screw hole and it hits the big spring in the lock. This is why whoever added this lock to this stock used the bridle screw. That screw holds the bridal in shear, but doe not clamp it to the side of the lock.

Id shoot it a bunch and see what it will do before modifying further,

So that's what I will do. THANKS!
 
20211107_074234.jpg


And it appears to have the barrel bedded.
 
You could have something there. If it didn't shoot well the owner/makers may have either completely finished it as a shooter or parted it out. Its the old "don't mess with success" deal. Have seen it before with home builds that shoot the pants off the pretty rifles.
 
One wedge and 28" seems balanced. 32+ visually seems to require a second wedge and is part of the looks on a gpr. While an under rib would really give OP's rifle a more finished look it will add weight and kinda defeats the reason someone built it as a target rifle. Despite my concerns i could not resist adding a rib/rod and a decorative "cover "escutcheon on section for the side lock screw. Maybe even add a front lock screw too. Nice peep too. Thats just me. All depends on how much OP has in it and how well it shoots.

I have a CVA Mtn Rifle stock and lock mated to a 40" (?) Hatfield .50 barrel with rib and rod. Its a "chunk gun" for me as unwieldy and front heavy as all H--ll but will split the "V"!!
 
Howdy, I'm taking it to the range today to see if it sends rounds downrange. Depending on how it shoots I will decide one way or another whether or not to install a peep sight
 
Howdy, Just got back from the range.

Temp; 45f
alt. 2600msl
wind NE @5-8mph
65gr ffG
.490" ball
Pillow ticking 0.021"

T'was tough sighting, my eyes don't bring the foresight into focus with the glasses I wear.

Looks to me, that I can justify putting a peep sight on it and see if it gets much better. :)
 
Howdy, I forgot something.
Dry lubed patch was licked before use.
I did not swab or clean the bore until I got home from the range. The interesting part is that it wasn't that tough to reload except for the last 3" or so which did get progressively worse making it difficult to seat the bullet on the powder
 
Howdy, I thought the photos would show their labels. So the first one is 50 yds and the second 100 yds
 
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