So I picked up this CVA Hawken and... Well, now what?

[cebers01]

Hello folks!

I've been lurking and learning from everyone here, but I definitely want your advice and expertise on this new old piece. I'm a waterfowler, love shotgunning sports and really only shoot rifles at things I can eat most of the time... But I got bitten by the smoke pole bug and am looking forward to shooting this 1988 CVA that I picked up recently. With a primitive weapon season coming up in Maryland, I'd like to give her a try to harvest a nice sika at the farm this year...

So I've had this thing a couple weeks and wanted to break it down and make sure it was ready to shoot... Let me tell ya what seems to be working. Well, pretty much everything so far. But... We have issues too. Let me show ya.

First off, the double set triggers work, but boy howdy that set trigger is heavy and hard to pull. Not sure how many pounds of pull to set, but it's too many... It's scratchy and creepy too. But firm once set, and the main firing trigger is smooth at the current setting with a couple pounds on it because I intend to hunt with it. It's definitely shootable this way but... LOOK AT THAT SEAR BAR?! How in the world did this happen? I figured this thing would be as hard a woodpecker lips... Maybe not. And should I simply heat it up and bend it back? I mean, it's not a little bent, it's a LOT! That thing looks like a candle left too close to the fireplace! So what do ya all think? And if we're fixing it, how should we? I'm all about some heat and beat, but I'm betting this will be one and done. Don't wanna mess this up because this lock really does work pretty darn well still!

The bore has some rust down within the last couple inches of the breech. The rest is pristine and hardly fired I think. That's a win. Just wanna clean that rust up a bit. I played with getting the breech plug off to clean it... I tried as hard as I'd dare. NOPE, that ain't happening. So whatever you guys think would be the best way to clean that bottom of the bore and breech area... Have a good jag, fouling scraper thing, bore brush, etc coming from Track of the Wolf...

I'm looking for some good real BP to shoot, but until then I guess some Triple 7 FFF and a CCI #11 magnum cap will have to do me. Plan to shoot essentially the same sabot and bullet I do over white powder in my Savage MLII: 250gr Hornady XTP in the black MMP sabot. Shot a couple dozen deer with that combo. Never missed one, or even had to go look for one shooting that. And if you have ideas on what this old gal might like to eat in the way of round ball loads, I'll sure give em a try too!

Took some pics for ya all to scope out, and if you see anything else I should look for, chime right in! I feel so fortunate to be able to learn from so many years of experience on this forum and really look forward to what you graybeards think on this one!

Thanks!!

Curtis

 

[Bad Karma]

Some of CVA metal parts are slightly harder than cottage cheese... try heat and bending the sear gently. Scrub the barrel diligently and shoot it. I’m betting it’ll be just fine. Post pictures of the sika!

 

[cebers01]

Thank ya sir! Here's the last big stag I was fortunate enough to take. Beautiful animal... And they taste like butter!

 

[dragnetbill]

Hello folks!

I've been lurking and learning from everyone here, but I definitely want your advice and expertise on this new old piece. I'm a waterfowler, love shotgunning sports and really only shoot rifles at things I can eat most of the time... But I got bitten by the smoke pole bug and am looking forward to shooting this 1988 CVA that I picked up recently. With a primitive weapon season coming up in Maryland, I'd like to give her a try to harvest a nice sika at the farm this year...

So I've had this thing a couple weeks and wanted to break it down and make sure it was ready to shoot... Let me tell ya what seems to be working. Well, pretty much everything so far. But... We have issues too. Let me show ya.

First off, the double set triggers work, but boy howdy that set trigger is heavy and hard to pull. Not sure how many pounds of pull to set, but it's too many... It's scratchy and creepy too. But firm once set, and the main firing trigger is smooth at the current setting with a couple pounds on it because I intend to hunt with it. It's definitely shootable this way but... LOOK AT THAT SEAR BAR?! How in the world did this happen? I figured this thing would be as hard a woodpecker lips... Maybe not. And should I simply heat it up and bend it back? I mean, it's not a little bent, it's a LOT! That thing looks like a candle left too close to the fireplace! So what do ya all think? And if we're fixing it, how should we? I'm all about some heat and beat, but I'm betting this will be one and done. Don't wanna mess this up because this lock really does work pretty darn well still!

The bore has some rust down within the last couple inches of the breech. The rest is pristine and hardly fired I think. That's a win. Just wanna clean that rust up a bit. I played with getting the breech plug off to clean it... I tried as hard as I'd dare. NOPE, that ain't happening. So whatever you guys think would be the best way to clean that bottom of the bore and breech area... Have a good jag, fouling scraper thing, bore brush, etc coming from Track of the Wolf...

I'm looking for some good real BP to shoot, but until then I guess some Triple 7 FFF and a CCI #11 magnum cap will have to do me. Plan to shoot essentially the same sabot and bullet I do over white powder in my Savage MLII: 250gr Hornady XTP in the black MMP sabot. Shot a couple dozen deer with that combo. Never missed one, or even had to go look for one shooting that. And if you have ideas on what this old gal might like to eat in the way of round ball loads, I'll sure give em a try too!

Took some pics for ya all to scope out, and if you see anything else I should look for, chime right in! I feel so fortunate to be able to learn from so many years of experience on this forum and really look forward to what you graybeards think on this one!

Thanks!!

Curtis

It is not uncommon to find straight from the factory CVA rifles with bent sear arms; I believe that they bent them when necessary to give "acceptable" function of lock/triggers. I would not be in a hurry to bend the sear arm back to straight; you might just take your roughly working rifle and make it into a non-working rifle.
I would look at the trigger system first; look for any burrs or foreign materials that might be binding the triggers. A quick clean and lube might improve the function. The following pages are from a CVA manual date stamped 1981.

Follow these directions on trigger adjustment screws and see if this improves you set trigger pull.
If you do a forum search on CVA breech plugs you will find several good posts with drawings showing why you should not attempt to remove the breech plug.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Someone bent the sear forward in an attempt to lighten the unset trigger pull. So, if the unset trigger pull is reasonable, I don't think moving it back is necessary. You will see benefit from taking the triggers apart and polishing up all the mating surfaces to reduce the scratchiness and creepiness you are feeling when you set the trigger. Once the parts are slicked up, you can adjust the triggers. Run the screw between the triggers all the way in until the triggers don't hold. Back the screw out one turn and that should be a reasonable setting for the set trigger or at least the starting point for final adjustment.

You have a CVA with the drum threaded into and locking the breech plug in place. CVA does not want you to remove the breech plug. I do not recommend removing a CVA or Traditions breech plug.

You didn't say what caliber you have. I would recommend the proper sized round ball wrapped in an olive oil or neatsfoot oil dampened patch. As this is a traditional muzzle loading forum, we don't make comments on sabotted bullets.

@dragnetbill, you did a better job of explaining the rifle than I did, but at least we agree on the substance.

 

[Davey Boy]

I appreciate the post with explanations and great pictures.

 

[deermanok]

Some good gun solvent and a bore brush should clean up the barrel for you.
The breech plug isn't designed to be removed without special tools and the know how.
A patched round ball or lead conical bullet is probably a better option. Your unmentionable bullets may or may not load well in your rig.

 

[TreeMan]

I’d attack that bore rust like I used to do with old rusty milsurp rifles. Find your most worn out bore brush, wrap medium course steel wool around the brush. Douse that bore with WD40 and start scrubbing away. Lather rinse repeat until it’s cleaned out. Replace the steel wool every so often and keep spraying that WD40. You’ll be surprised how clean it will be.

 

[rafterob]

Check the functioning of the set triggers out of the rifle. They look in good shape so I imagine they should work well. The rear trigger is the set trigger and it should not take a lot of pressure to set it. The screw behind that adjusts the tension on the spring that powers the set trigger sear bar against the sear. The screw in front of that adjusts the degree to which the notch on the set trigger engages the front trigger (making it lighter or heavier pull). I would replace the lock sear bar. it should be available from Deer Creek. The front trigger will be heavy when not using the set trigger, but not so much so you can't get used to it for hunting. Some CVA rifles, especially the Mountain Rifle, have issues with the inlet for the triggers being too deep. This is usually evidenced by not being able to set the trigger before cocking to full cock or the hammer not wanting to stay at full cock. It can be solved by shimming the front of the trigger plate in the inlet. Otherwise, that looks to be in real good-like new shape. Sabots would not be your best choice for that rifle. Round ball or Maxi ball type projectiles will be best. I say embrace the round ball, it will kill do the job you want while being cheaper and easier to shoot.

 

[azmntman]

Rust....8-1 water to molasses and pour down with nipple plugged. Just enough to cover the rust. In two days clean as usual then run a nylon brush down and scrub out any pieces remaining and yer rust free. WILL AFFECT BLUING so be careful.

 

[Maven]

Curtis, If that lock & triggers were mine, I'd disassemble the former and polish every bearing surface, including the bent sear and trigger tops. I did this on a Lyman Great Plains rifle with a difficult set trigger pull and it made quite a difference. If you have a Dremel tool, look at these polishing devices: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cratex+b...901438&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_549ttbkenk_e

Btw, you don't want to alter the notches in the tumbler at all.