Seal the cap on BP Revolvers

[dhayre]

I have heard some on this site stating that the oldtimers used hot wax from a candle to seal the caps on their revolvers. What would be a quick and easy way other then that to seal the caps to stop a chain fire.

 

[Dphar]

The cap should be a press fit on the nipple. This is the best solution.
Its possible but not likely it will chain fire across the nipples.

Dan

 

[LRB]

I have only experienced two chain fires. In both cases I forgot to seal the bullets. I have never worried about a chain fire from the caps. I think that would be a very rare and unusual happening. Possible maybe, but extremely unlikely.

 

[Mike Brooks]

The right size of caps for your nipples will seal on there own, nothing else is required.

 

[Mulebrain]

A nice snug fitting cap, and a ball that cuts a lead ring is all the sealing that is needed.

Some lube on top of the cylinders sure doesn't hurt!

 

[curator]

The "Bevel Brothers" deal with this issue in this month's "Muzzle Blasts" magazine. They conclude (incorrectly I might add) that chain fires only happen from the nipple end. Yes, they can and occasionally do cross-fire when caps fall off or are loose on the nipples. Poorly fitting bullets, both ball and conical, will allow chain fires to occur from the front of the cylinder too. I have seen this several times and the problem was either wrinkled, out-of-round balls, or conicals loaded with a slight tilt. Some replica revolvers also have slightly tapered chambers, where deeply seated balls can move forward under recoil and loose their "seal", making the remaining charges prone to cross-firing. This occurance is difficult to stage as it seems to take a bit of bad luck combined with the right combination of poor loading procedure and componants.

#1 cause of chain fires I have personally witnessed: those short "conical" bullets from the reproduction bullet moulds sold with cap & ball pistol kits---The brass ones with ball and conical cavities. I saw this happen last week at the gun club to which I belong. Checked the shooter's componants, and there they were; slightly wrinkly with obvious casting imperfections to boot!

While chain fires are not usually catastrophic, correct fit on caps, a correctly loaded over-size ball or conical, possibly a felt wad under the bullet and some thick grease on top will totally prevent them from happening.

 

[dhayre]

I did a little research and found that the sealing of the caps was for keeping the dampness out when loaded for long periods of time or when out in bad weather. I guess I am doing the right thing then by using good tight balls and ensuring to get that shaved ring when loading. I use number #11 caps on my .44's , but I have to pinch them a bit. The #10 won't fit, too tight.

 

[Zonie]

I think that if the oldtimers actually used candle wax on their revolver caps there thinking probably was not that it would stop chain firing.

Because a revolver, carried in a holster is out in the open (if the owner wasn't wearing a coat) the wax could have been meant to stop rain from getting under the cap.

More than a few holsters from the early belt revolvers had full flaps to keep rain out but for an open holster without a flap some wax might help.

For most modern shooters I don't know that wax is needed and I will guess that there is a chance of some very hot wax heating the primer up to the point that it fires.

 

[Raider2000]

I think that if the oldtimers actually used candle wax on their revolver caps there thinking probably was not that it would stop chain firing.

Because a revolver, carried in a holster is out in the open (if the owner wasn't wearing a coat) the wax could have been meant to stop rain from getting under the cap.

More than a few holsters from the early belt revolvers had full flaps to keep rain out but for an open holster without a flap some wax might help.

For most modern shooters I don't know that wax is needed and I will guess that there is a chance of some very hot wax heating the primer up to the point that it fires.

Exactly, I made a post about a year ago in THR that describes this practice because I seen a lot of people asking about how long can one keep a C&B Revolver loaded "I guess as a HD or second SD weapon."

I do keep at least one of my C&B Revolvers loaded mostly because when I go to check traps &/or do some scouting on the hunt club I may decide to carry that revolver instead of maybe my .45ACP, I've noted more than once either here or on other sights that once when I was in college I had my Pietta 60' Army loaded for Nearly a year because of the lack of time to shoot it & I even then had it out in the rain once but it was as reliable as though I loaded it that day when I did shoot it off.

Hot candle wax if dripped onto the cap isn't going to set the weapon off, been doing this for over 20 years & so far not an insodent, I have also used fingernail polish to seal the cap union "don't tell the missus" for the same reason, now as far as what the OP mentions of keeping the chain fires to a minimum, I have to agree with what has been said earlier, my only chain fires were either to ill fitting projectiles up front or maybe a cap falling off a loaded chamber but not because of a proper fitting cap & or projectile.