Thanks a lot Eric. That is pretty much the direction I am heading now. I have a TC rifle to unload first so I can buy the kit. It's sitting on my buddies gun shop rack as I type.
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Powder source....the good stuff
- Thread starter PEARL DRUMS
- Start date
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Don't know if you're anywhere near Kalamazoo, but On Target typically stocks black powder there. The Log Cabin Shop in Lodi, Ohio also stocks it, but they may be quite a drive depending on where you're at. Their black powder museum and library is worth making the trip whether you're looking for powder or not though!Hey all,
New to the forum and hopefully new to flint locks. I cant find any powder in Michigan and am wondering if anybody can tip me off to powder sources in northern Ohio possibly? Buying a new flinter or kit with a constant search for powder doesn't sound like a good time to me as I like to shoot. Hoping not to get laughed off the forum
I am just a bit more than an hour NE of Kzoo. Thanks for the tip, David.
Mzzlldrinpa
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2013
- Messages
- 126
- Reaction score
- 150
I don't know if 6 lbs will be enough. Once you get the itch, you will shoot more than you think.
Welcome I'm in Northwest Michigan. Just for a heads up with flintlocks. Get a gun with the BEST lock you can buy.
That's why so many on here go with the Kibler kits.
Kibler has one of the, if not the best locks out their.
Also his kits are super easy to put together. The kits go together in a few hours. Its the staining the wood and metal prep that takes time. Good luck on your choice.
That's why so many on here go with the Kibler kits.
Kibler has one of the, if not the best locks out their.
Also his kits are super easy to put together. The kits go together in a few hours. Its the staining the wood and metal prep that takes time. Good luck on your choice.
Good move.
Its worth ordering in quantity to off set the hazmat fee. Powder don’t cost nothing to store and it’s shelf life will outlive most of us. Just saying.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Which is odd, I can't speak for others but I'd rather stick patches in my mouth than licker postage stamps.
As for patch lube, a lot of us use mink oil for TOW, cheap and reliable. For patching I have found that #40 100% cotton pocket drill cloth from Joann's works the best for me. Much tighter weave than pillow ticking, the thickness is around .018 which is perfect for my .54 deer rifles and a .530 ball.
If you go with a Kibler, the woods runner in .54 is lighter weight with a perfect balance point, I have shouldered a bunch of them at the local long rifle show. I have lusted for one of these rifles ever since they came out, the problem is I have three .54s, two flint and one percussion as well as another percussion in .50, I just can't justify another deer caliber rifle.
My last build had a similar 38" barrel in .54, I love this profile and its weight and balance, I have made this gun my #1 deer hunting rifle.
For cleaning, I just discovered this stuff, 3 wet patches and 3 dry patches and you are done except for lubing the barrel. I am still in the testing phase on this stuff but so far it looks really good.
If you go with a Kibler, the woods runner in .54 is lighter weight with a perfect balance point, I have shouldered a bunch of them at the local long rifle show. I have lusted for one of these rifles ever since they came out, the problem is I have three .54s, two flint and one percussion as well as another percussion in .50, I just can't justify another deer caliber rifle.
My last build had a similar 38" barrel in .54, I love this profile and its weight and balance, I have made this gun my #1 deer hunting rifle.
For cleaning, I just discovered this stuff, 3 wet patches and 3 dry patches and you are done except for lubing the barrel. I am still in the testing phase on this stuff but so far it looks really good.
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Thanks Eric. I have a lot of mink oil. I use it on all my leather goods. Boots, shoes, side bags, possibles pouches, straps and whatever else I can find to smear it on. Great stuff.
LOL. Off thread but it’s been many a year since I’ve see postage stamps that needed licking.Which is odd, I can't speak for others but I'd rather stick patches in my mouth than licker postage stamps.
I just (months ago) ordered the bear oil stuff from member Frontier. Have had no chance to try but it seems like about the same consistency etc (if not left in the truck in the sun all day LOL). Cheaper too I believe. I grabbed two tins but if it excels at the range and makes me look better (HARD TO DO) I will get serval more. HOARDER me
What's it's main ingredient?
Yes, I recognized the name. You may recognize mine. Hey, what's the best bow to buy anyway, and will 30# kill a deer?
I certainly recognize your handle. Don't buy a bow, build 5!
I have had great service dealing with Maine Powder House. I just checked and she had a lot of Swiss & Schutzen in stock.
I thought that once also, a "long while" went faster than I thought .
When I run out I now know where to look. Thanks to all of you fellas. I have nearly 3# of old, stale American Pioneer to rid myself of. I don’t trust it anymore. It even has a smell to it that is off a touch.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Aye! At's what makes em collectable. There's licked and unlicked (un circulated)LOL. Off thread but it’s been many a year since I’ve see postage stamps that needed licking.
Muskrat whiskers if it's off label. Beef liver if it's top shelf.
The only ingredient in mink oil is; MINK OIL from fleshing commercially raised mink hides.
