My frizzen is hitting the barrel.

[squib load]

Hi, iam trying to get my lock close enough to the barrel to keep powder from slipping down behind the pan.3 pieces of computer will still go beteen the pan and barrel.My frizzen is hitting the barrel and wont let me go any closer.What to do,what to do?Thanks,squib

 

[Roy]

take about 3 widths of paper off from the frizzen where its hitting the barrel. You did mean paper right?? :haha:

 

[mazo kid]

Hi, iam trying to get my lock close enough to the barrel to keep powder from slipping down behind the pan.3 pieces of computer will still go beteen the pan and barrel.My frizzen is hitting the barrel and wont let me go any closer.What to do,what to do?Thanks,squib

What make of lock/barrel/gun? Is this the way it came or did you build it? Other than grinding down the barrel side of the frizzen, the only other thing I might suggest is to file/grind down the boss where the frizzen screw goes through and put a shim washer on the barrel side, spacing the frizzen away the distance needed..

 

[Bruce Bogart]

Take the frizzen off the lock until you get the lockplate seated. Then do as Roy says. If it is soft enough a few files strokes at a time oughtta get you closer. If hardened a stone and a bit of rubbing will get you there. Just don't over do it

 

[squib load]

Hi,it is a early lancaster I bought in kit form from tvm.I think its a large siler.Thanks for the replies.Thanks Roy,its 3 widths of computer paper.squib

 

[LRB]

Be sure the lock inlet is not canting the lock off square also. That is often the problem that you are having. My own custom built rifle was that way, but only left a small gap. When I re-barrelled it, I was able to re-set the lock enough to make a hairline perfect fit.

 

[necchi]

"Be sure the lock inlet is not canting the lock off square also."
That was my first thought, the bottom of the lock plate might be out too far.
Only you will know.

 

[squib load]

Thanks guys,I took a little off the side and it works great.I took the frizzen off and filed off the thickness of 3 computer papers.It is up against the barrel like it should be.squib

 

[Zonie]

IMO, there is nothing wrong with the side of the frizzen having a open gap between itself and the side of the barrel.
There is no rule about how large this gap can be.
Most of my guns have about 1/32" of clearance in this area.

I feel this is a goodness.
Because the lock and barrel will fit together slightly differently each time the gun is disassembled, having this clearance will assure that the frizzen never scrapes the barrel.

 

[LRB]

I think I would rather have a little scrape than a gap that large Zonie. And I do.

 

[squib load]

My frizzen was scraping,so I hit a few times with a file.Now it works great.squib

 

[StewartLeach]

Ran into the gap between lock bolster and side of barrel problem myself. Hurriedly finished out a kit rifle, then the stock wood shrank in our semi-arid climate. Now I let stock sit in the corner for 90 days +/- before working.

I think a gap should be avoided if at all possible. 4Fg is pretty fine, and can filter down between stock and barrel, to perhaps accumulate and some day go off.

Two solutions are easy and traditional. Use a hammer to flatten a piece of lead down into a thin sheet to fill the gap, or, as others have suggested, set the lock over snug and square, then modify the side of the frizzen if there is contact.

White Fox

 

[squib load]

Mine is touching and does not have a gap now.Thanks for the lead idea,I will remember that.squib

 

[Vaino]

If the frizzen protrudes past the pan {bolster} and depending on the amount, I lightly "touch" it on a disk sander, polish and break the corners. I too like a "zero gap" frizzen...usually there's enough "slop" w/ the pivot screw for smooth operation. When squirrel hunting, the rifle is at all sorts of positions and as was said, 4f will escape. Have to say though, that since using Chambers' locks, this "problem" is non-existent...just breaking the corners is all that's req'd.....Fred

 

[Zonie]

I think I should clarify my comments a bit.

When I was speaking of having some clearance between the frizzen and the barrel I was thinking of the actual frizzen, not the pan cover.

The pan cover should clear the barrel by about .002-.006". Just enough so that it doesn't scrape the browning or bluing off of the barrel or leave scratch marks on the barrel flat.
.002-.006 is about the thickness of 1 to 2 black human hairs.