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Problem with Frizzen Gap Losing Powder

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Joined
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I introduced a buddy to muzzleloader hunting this season. I wanted him to use my TC, so I went and bought myself a Traditions Woodsman Hawken. The gun shoots very well, but on my first day out hunting I realized that the pan does not hold FFFF powder due to a gap on the left side of the frizzen. I had to condition myself to keep the gun level or tilted right. Considering that I hiked over 12 miles that day, this was not practical, and I had to be ready to recharge my flashpan before taking a shot.

This cannot be fixed by tightening the lockplate screws, since the frizzen is narrower than the pan. Does anyone have any advice for rectifying this issue? I can't think of anything except cutting a thin piece of brass or something to glue on the side of the barrel, which I do not want to do, and which I also feel could be dangerous if the discharge ejects it.
 

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Whittle on your lock mortise, use 3F to prime, or put a shim in there like a cut up piece of soda can. When hunting I’d rather use 3f for prime. 3f is a bit more resilient to moisture and leaking out of the pan.
 
You could solder on a piece of steel shim stock with low temperature silver solder and file it to match the contour. Old feeler gauges are great for this sort of thing. I don't think it would draw the temper from the frizzen but others can correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Depending on space you may be able to pull it off, remove guts then file lockplate back to frizzen. This may/probably require some inletting/stock work.

The easiest is to remove the frizzen TIG weld onto the frizzen to cover the gap then file it back to shape. Once done reharden the frizzen.
 
I introduced a buddy to muzzleloader hunting this season. I wanted him to use my TC, so I went and bought myself a Traditions Woodsman Hawken. The gun shoots very well, but on my first day out hunting I realized that the pan does not hold FFFF powder due to a gap on the left side of the frizzen. I had to condition myself to keep the gun level or tilted right. Considering that I hiked over 12 miles that day, this was not practical, and I had to be ready to recharge my flashpan before taking a shot.

This cannot be fixed by tightening the lockplate screws, since the frizzen is narrower than the pan. Does anyone have any advice for rectifying this issue? I can't think of anything except cutting a thin piece of brass or something to glue on the side of the barrel, which I do not want to do, and which I also feel could be dangerous if the discharge ejects it.
Tig or Mig weld the side of the frizzen and mill or file to snugly fit the barrel flat. It's a good idea if it's think enough here to cover the vent as well when closed.
 
Thanks for the input all.

I opted to shave down the inside surface of the flashpan, and I now have it flat and level with the frizzen. Next step is to recess the wood inletting just a little further. It should work!
 
i have had that problem. i take the frizzen off the lock and run it where it mates to the pan and do the same to the pan where it mates to the frizzen, across a flat whetstone so no daylight can be seen when they are together,,,,,,,,,,,
 
Being new, I would take it and get the money back. They sold an unsafe product.
I called Traditions about it and they straight up told me that was normal for their rifles lol. I'm sure my LGS would work with me, but I think I can make it work, and it's an opportunity for me to learn more about flintlocks.
 
Being new, I would take it and get the money back. They sold an unsafe product.
I called Traditions about it and they straight up told me that was normal for their rifles lol. I'm sure my LGS would work with me, but I think I can make it work, and it's an opportunity for me to learn more about flintlocks.
In other words, they told you they intentionally sell an inferior product!
 

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