My cannon drawings

[Wedge]

I finally got everything sorted out. Thanks Claude for the note you sent, much appreciated. The drawings consist of about 24 sheets of A4 sized paper. All these drawings are FREE to all who would like to build this cannon. All I ask is that the postage could be reimbursed. It hits my pocket too hard if I pay postage for overseas mail and I can't afford it all the time. I firmly believe in sharing my info and knowledge as a legacy with those who can enjoy and benefit from it. The years I spent teaching and sharing info in the USA were some of the most enjoyable years of my life.
The drawings also include details of how I made the gun drill to drill the bore. The cannon can be made on a 7 inch lathe. My own lathe is a Myford Super Seven with a 30 inch long bed, (30" between centers). It is a huge advantage if the cross-slide has T slots to enable parts to be clamped onto the c/slide to be machined. If you would like a copy of the drawings please contact me via my e-mail address (see personal profile) or pm me here. The cannon that I made is now 20 years old and still draws a crowd at all the shoots.
Joe / Wedge

Wedgetail Eagles rule the skies.

 

[Owen]

Well i just received today a copy of the plans all I have to say is wow ... Going to make this so much easier to make some thing like this .. they are clear and easy to read just have the build notes to get and i can play .... now to find a lathe

thanks Joe
:thumbsup:
Owen.

 

G'day Wedgetail,

Would appreciate if you would post a photo of your cannon. I am looking at making one and have received some books from overseas with details of Civil War cannons. Maybe yours could be a good exercise for a first attempt.

Cheers from down under
Aussie Bob

 

[Wedge]

Gudday Bob
Scroll down the cannon page to "My HMS Victory Cannon". You will find photos of the cannon located here. My cannon is now 20 years old so it shows a little wear and tear on the carriage. I think this improves the nostalgia and appeal of the cannon. It is a relatively simple cannon to make. The drawings are very comprehensive and easy to read. Let me know what you wish to do.
Joe / Wedge

 

[Runner]

I am still waiting on a set of the plans.

 

[Wedge]

Hi Runner,
I'm sorry that I missed sending the plans to you. My life has been turned upside down following the loss of my beloved brother last week. Can't accept it that he is gone, can't stop the tears.
Will post the drawings this morning for you.
Joe

 

[Runner]

Sorry to hear of your loss!

 

[Owen]

HI Joe ..I'm sorry for your loss as well.

But a quick question have been looking for a good metal for the barrel ... i know 4140 is used a lot for this ... but every metal suppliers I'm ringing gives me this blank "ummmmm no idea" from them ... is it an USA only designator for the metal or am I getting a run around here and can get it in Oz.

Or what metal do you recomend

Thanks

Owen

 

4140 is the Industry standard for smokeless powder barrels. Other safe metals I could suggest to you are 12L14 or 1137. I believe Getz and Colerain use 12L14 for their blackpowder swamped rifle barrels and Green Mountain advertises that they use 1137 for theirs.

Just :m2c:

 

[Wedge]

What steel?
My choice of steel for a cannon barrel would be SAE 1137. This is a cold drawn steel that comes in round, square and hexagon in section. The 4130 steel is not necessary for a cannon. It is very time consuming and slow to machine without carbide inserts. Welding the trunions onto the barrel can induce hard spots in the weld zone making it even more difficult to machine when drilling the bore. Welding this steel does not appeal to me as serious damage to the grain structure can occur. A steel that can be welded easily would be much better.

12L14 steel is a leaded steel. The addition of lead makes the steel VERY easy to machine. This steel is also resulphurized and rephosphorized. This means that sulphur and phosphorus have been added to increase the content of these two elements. This increase also make the steel more machinable. These three elemements also lessen the strength of the steel. However, it still has the necessary strength required for a black powder barrel. Compare the wall thickness around the powder chamber/bore of a cannon and a "normal" B/P rifle barrel. The cannon barrel is far greater in thickness in this area and also along the full length of the barrel. (How thick is the barrel on a 12G B/P shotgun?). I myself am not fussed on welding leaded steels so my choice would be SAE 1137 or its equivalent. The final choice is an individual one to make. The main requirement is that it has a tensile strength of 40 tons per square inch and can be readily welded without hardening the weld zone.

Refer to Machinerys Handbook edition 24, page 366 to 397. Note especially the table on page 396 and 397. The important value here is the Izod impact strength. The higher this number the more ductile the steel (ductility gives the steel the abillity to withstand shock). The lower this number, the more brittle the steel is. The higher the Izod number, the lower the tensile strength. Compare the Izod values of 4130 and 1137.

Wedge :imo:

 

[trigger mortise]

Ask for a piece of low carbon steel or mild steel, there is no need to use 1137 which is a medium carbon steel, or any of the alloyed steels like 4140 or 4130. They are difficult to weld and harder to machine.
And I would not use any of the leaded type steels like 12L14

 

I feel that they are neccessary for safety sake. Difference between a cannon and a bomb. Also the difference between a gun maker and a model maker. A gun maker knows what metal to use and why. Model maker only cares how it looks.

And in my opinion, NO BARREL, WHETHER GUN, MORTAR OR CANNON SHOULD BE WELDED! This effects the integrity of the metal. Major safety NO-NO! Just because you haven't had a problem yet, doesn't mean you won't.

Just :m2c:

 

[trigger mortise]

A properly constructed cannon barrel will only turn into a bomb if the barrel muzzle is severely restricted. As for the welding issue; that is why some of us, (who make their living working in the metal trade) do not recommend using metals like alloy steels, medium or high carbon steels, or leaded types of steel to construct cannon barrels.
Apart from the leaded types of steel, the alloy steels and medium to high carbon steel can be welded, but it requires a sound knowledge of the welding process to get the proper results.
Welding trunnions to mild steel cannon barrels on the other hand with a standard welding rod like 6013 or 7018, or with a MIG wire is perfectly safe and has no negative effect on the barrel.
Welding a plug into a mild steel barrel is also perfectly acceptably and again with no ill effect to the barrel but for safety sakes the plug should be threaded in.

 

[andrellj]

I know nothing 'bout steel, but the gentleman who built mine
of 14ld12 told me it he drilled and tapped the trunions on
because welding softens the steel. I did not know welding
actually hardens certain steels... learn somethin' new everyday!

 

A properly constructed cannon barrel will only turn into a bomb if the barrel muzzle is severely restricted. As for the welding issue; that is why some of us, (who make their living working in the metal trade) do not recommend using metals like alloy steels, medium or high carbon steels, or leaded types of steel to construct cannon barrels.
Apart from the leaded types of steel, the alloy steels and medium to high carbon steel can be welded, but it requires a sound knowledge of the welding process to get the proper results.
Welding trunnions to mild steel cannon barrels on the other hand with a standard welding rod like 6013 or 7018, or with a MIG wire is perfectly safe and has no negative effect on the barrel.
Welding a plug into a mild steel barrel is also perfectly acceptably and again with no ill effect to the barrel but for safety sakes the plug should be threaded in.

And other than pieces made by "metal workers", please name me any gun in production in which welding the barrel is a standard practice? There is none to my knowledge. It is a dangerous practice and should not be done.

 

[trigger mortise]

Damascus barrels were made using a type of welding process and they were renowned for their strength.

 

[trigger mortise]

There is an interesting article in the Black Powder Handbook regarding the deliberate destruction of a .58 cal. black powder rifle barrel measuring only 1

 

Damascus barrels were made using a type of welding process and they were renowned for their strength.

Now, you are really reaching. :shake: Hammer welding is not the same process as arc welding. If you you think so, then you have much to learn. Heat treating is part and partial of the process of damascus or wootz steel. They are also well known for their flaws with age. A soft steel combined with a maleable iron for it strength of giving, producing an eye pleasing patterns when shaped by means of grinding and polishing. The iron is susceptible to fatigue and corrosive rot, giving way to burst barrels.

 

There is an interesting article in the Black Powder Handbook regarding the deliberate destruction of a .58 cal. black powder rifle barrel measuring only 1

 

A properly constructed cannon barrel will only turn into a bomb if the barrel muzzle is severely restricted. As for the welding issue; that is why some of us, (who make their living working in the metal trade) do not recommend using metals like alloy steels, medium or high carbon steels, or leaded types of steel to construct cannon barrels.

It doesn't take much to severely restrict a barrel. A child size hand full of fine sand, whether blown in by a gust of wind or tossed in by a passing child. A heavy deposit of oil or grease. These are all forms of severely restrictive obstacles. And don't forget Murphy's law, any thing can and will happen.