I just joined the forum, and I am trying to learn before leaping any further. I have acquired an Ultra Hi .45cal Kentucky style percussion rifle made by Miroku. I want to remove the barrel to clean and inspect. There are no visible pins as I have read about on some other make rifles. There are 2 screws under the muzzle, and 1 screw on top of the barrel tang near the stock. There are also 2 screws on the left side that screw through a brass plate which I assume is for the trigger mechanism. I did not want to start removing screws without some guidance first. Sadly, I cannot find online an owner's manual nor any information on how to service this rifle. I would also like to know if anyone knows what cap should be used. I've been told a 209, and also #11, however, I know these are 2 different caps and I believe the #11 is more accurate. Any other comments and suggestions would be a huge help as well.
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how to remove barrel for inspection
- Thread starter ronmar
- Start date
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Greetings,
First, Double check the barrel with the ramrod and ensure when the ramrod is inserted it goes down to the breech. You can insert the ramrod, make a tiny mark where it sits at the edge of the muzzle, THEN removed it and compare it on the exterior of the barrel using the tiny mark as a reference..., allowing you to see if the ramrod tip reaches the breech or not, to ensure she is unloaded. OFTEN they are, when the second owner buys them.
Yes the screws under the muzzle are removed if there are no screws hidden in the ramrod channel. Look at the ramrod channel (groove) for any other screws. The tang screw must also be removed to remove the barrel. The two side screws in the side-plate are for holding the lock in the stock, not the trigger. The tang screw often is used to hold in the barrel AND goes usually through the stock to thread into the trigger plate. You should be using #11 caps. IF you can't find them you may want to get a DIY cap making kit.
LD
First, Double check the barrel with the ramrod and ensure when the ramrod is inserted it goes down to the breech. You can insert the ramrod, make a tiny mark where it sits at the edge of the muzzle, THEN removed it and compare it on the exterior of the barrel using the tiny mark as a reference..., allowing you to see if the ramrod tip reaches the breech or not, to ensure she is unloaded. OFTEN they are, when the second owner buys them.
Yes the screws under the muzzle are removed if there are no screws hidden in the ramrod channel. Look at the ramrod channel (groove) for any other screws. The tang screw must also be removed to remove the barrel. The two side screws in the side-plate are for holding the lock in the stock, not the trigger. The tang screw often is used to hold in the barrel AND goes usually through the stock to thread into the trigger plate. You should be using #11 caps. IF you can't find them you may want to get a DIY cap making kit.
LD
Once you've removed those screws, there's a proper way to remove the barrel from the stock, as demonstrated at about 10 minutes into this video:
Hello from Miami county, Ohio. I have a similar rifle. The 11 caps are correct for your rifle. You can get them at Old English Gun Shop in our area. They also have T7 and Pyrodex powder. Your rifle looks pretty clean. Have fun.
rafterob
62 Cal.
Unless there are screws that go through the ramrod thimbles into the barrel, it should just be the two at the muzzle and the tang screw.
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If there holes in the side of the ram rod pipes there are screws under them put a screw drive through the holes and remove. Now let's talk about screw drivers. A mistake new people make is not using a screw driver that fits properly. Muzzleloader screws tend to have narrower slots than you may be used to
Thank you very much. I will stop up there and pick some up.
