TeutonicHeathen
Black Hand pretty much hit the nail on the head as for where to buy your tools.
Yes, there are similar tools available from specialty companies but they will cost a lot more money and at this stage, you really don't need them.
Comments on your tool list:
1: Not too big. A 8 or 12 ounce will be plenty.
2: A small surform. You'll know it when you see it.
3.File cards have hundreds of little wires standing up. They are used to clean the stuff out of the files teeth.
4. Get a 6 or 8 inch bastard file and a 8 ot 10 inch mill file. The names describe the roughness of the teeth with the mill file having more teeth per inch than the bastard.
Follow this link and read it.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/9066/post/9066/fromsearch/1/#9066
5. The tap cuts the threads. The tap wrench clamps on the tap to turn it. IMO you will need a #8-32, #8-36, #10-24, #10-32 and a 1/4-28 tap.
The wrench will drive all of these taps.
They can be bought as a set or individually. I recommend buying each size individually.
6. This is a super fine bladed coping saw. Hobby shops are the best place to shop.
7. One or two simple adjustable 6 or10 inch bar clamps will do. Parallel clamps are pretty specialized and really shouldn't be needed.
8. This is a "pin punch" with a smooth cylindrical end on it. It is used for driving out small pins.
9. A 12 inch combination square will work. The blade can be removed to serve as a straight edge.
It can also be used to define 45 and 90 degree angles for layout work.
10. The cutting oil is "Thread Cutting Oil", a special sulfured oil that is used to lubricate your taps. This keeps them from grabbing and breaking.
11. A magnifier built into a head band. It's handy for seeing small detail but if you have good eyesight you probably don't need it.
I don't see "safety glasses" on your list.
Be sure to buy some to protect your eyes from flying dust, metal chips and small flying parts.
12. Get a small pointed punch. It is used to make small indentations to position your drill bit in just the right place for drilling holes.
13. Counter sink bits come in both 3/8" and 1/2" sizes. They form the angular seats for flat head screws to rest in. Either size will work. Get the one with the 82 degree included angle.
14. Drill bits come in fractional sizes, number sizes and letter sizes. The ones you will need to form the holes for the taps I mentioned above are:
#29 (.136 dia) for the #8-32 and the #8-24 tap
#25 (.1495 dia) for the #10-24 tap
#21 (.1590 dia) for the #10-32 tap
#3 (.213 dia) for the 1/4-28 tap.
You didn't mention it but I strongly recommend buying a 0-6 inch dial caliper.
It measures outside, inside and depth features to an accuracy of one thousandths of an inch (.001).
Not only can it be used to verify that you have the right size tap drill in your hand before you use it but it can be used for scribing precision lines (with the inside feature measuring points)and quickly measuring all sorts of things accurately.
Harbor Freight sells some electronic digital calipers and they work but often the battery will go dead just when you need it most.
I recommend spending a few more dollars and buying the kind with a round analog dial that doesn't need any power other than that supplied by your hands.
These can range in price from $8 to $300 but one that costs about $15-$20 will serve you well for years.
