help finding parts

[pbrockland]

Please help!
I found an old Miroku hawken (Sears and Roebuck)hanging up in an old cabin and in need of a lot of attention.

The first problem is that the full cock notch on the tumbler is so badly worn that it won't stay cocked! Does anyone know where I can find a new tumbler for this lock. I noticed that this lock is almost identical to the lock on my T/C hawken, does any one know if these parts are interchangable? Does anyone know where I can find a new tumbler for a T/C?

The second problem is that I can not get the hammer and tumbler off the old lock. I have soaked it in PB Blaster and used a screwdriver as a wedge to no avail. Does anyone have any tips.

This forum is an incredible resource and I appreciate all of your help.

 

[boar]

To get the hammer off, take out screw,setup with lock face up on small blocks, you need a drift to fit in square hole in hammer,I use brass,then punch down. You will have to have mainspring and sear spring out. Should only have tumber on that side. As tumber is shot you could use a steel drift if other don"t work. A small amount of heat will help drive in your oil soak before you punch. Dilly

 

[Birddog6]

That is corrrect, you punch the tumbler out of the hammer, not pry it off. Prying it off can crack or break the tumbler shaft or crush the screw hole in the shaft. I use a 1/4" piece of brass rod that is filed square on the end & such it will easily go into the hammer/tumbler hole & put it on the open vice with the jaws in to where they will go the closest around the tumbler & punch it out. As stated above, the lock should be stripped first.

When you go back together, lay the hammer on the vice flat with jaw overhaning the vice, then the tumbler in the lock plate & turn it over & put the square shaft into the hammer, tap the end of the tumbler shaft to seat the shaft into the hammer. Don't try to pull the hammer on with the retaining screw as the screw is soft & you will just break the screw off, then ya get to start all over, except now ya have a broken screw to try to extract. :hmm:

As for the T/C tumbler, call T/C. Why go anywhere else & you will probably have it in 3 days after ordering it.

:thumbsup:

 

[pbrockland]

Thanks for the ideas, I don't know why I hadn't thought of it myself. Once I get the tumbler and hammer off the lock plate I will try and fit the TC tumbler I have and see if it will work. I will keep you updated.

 

[George Holton]

No to the new tumbler. reshape the notch and case harden it. Dont spend money on small things like this, Or you can even make a tumbler with files and an electric drill. Pretend that these mail order places don't exist, and do it yourself for the experience. Bob

 

[Zonie]

If this rifle was mine, I would remove the tumbler from the lock and lightly sand the side away from the lockplate until it was shiny.
Then I would replace the tumbler into the lockplate and just "start" the hammer onto the square drive.
I would also reinstall the sear if I had removed it when I removed the tumbler.

I would then use a felt tip permanent marker to blacken the shiny surface

By rotating the hammer/tumbler to the approximate location where the sear would engage the full cock notch I would rotate the hammer forward just a smidge, take a steel ruler and center the edge of it on the center of rotation of the tumbler and align it with the end of the sear.
In this position I would scribe a line on the marked surface.

Disassembling the tumbler I would clamp it into a vise and use a fine toothed mill file and recut the full cock notch so it is aligned with and just touching the scribed line.

Then I would reassemble the tumbler and sear on the lockplate and rotate the tumbler until the nose of the sear engages the new notch.
Using a magnifying glass I would make sure the surfaces are fully aligned with one another.
If they were, I would then use Kasenit to carburize the new surface.
If the surfaces were at all cocked or canted with one another I would adjust them with a file to true them up.

While doing this I would remind myself that the surfaces must be square with each other and the notch in the tumbler must not be cocked in the direction that would allow the nose of the sear to slip or slide off of it when the gun is cocked.

Although that is a discription of what I would do, I will admit that I've studied the angles and locations of this area. If you feel at all unsure of your abilities to re-cut the full cock notch then don't try to do this task. Take the parts to a gun smith who will know how it is done.

zonie

 

[pbrockland]

Thanks for the ideas,

I think I will try the process Zonie describes, the worst that can happen is I mess up an already messed up tumbler. I am pretty confident in my ability. My only concern is that there is not enough metal left on the tumblers notch, even if I file the notch deeper and file the rounded edge flat the sear will not have enough reach to fully engage and stay put. Does any of that make sense?

The good news is that the tumbler from the TC lock fits perfectly, if I screw it up I can order a new one or make one as Old Bob has suggested.

Thanks again for all your help.