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cap lock work
- Thread starter SPQR70AD
- Start date
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@SPQR70AD,
The fly is nowhere near the full cock notch to block the sear from entering the full cock notch. Therefore, I don't think the lock is causing the problem.
Remove the lock from the stock. Does the lock function properly when it has been removed? It should.
A more likely cause for the problem is that the lock plate is pulled too deeply into the trigger mortise and the trigger levers are lifting the sear lever high enough to block the nose of the sear to enter the full and half cock notches. You will need a shim in the trigger mortise to lower the trigger plate.
The fly is nowhere near the full cock notch to block the sear from entering the full cock notch. Therefore, I don't think the lock is causing the problem.
Remove the lock from the stock. Does the lock function properly when it has been removed? It should.
A more likely cause for the problem is that the lock plate is pulled too deeply into the trigger mortise and the trigger levers are lifting the sear lever high enough to block the nose of the sear to enter the full and half cock notches. You will need a shim in the trigger mortise to lower the trigger plate.
It would help if you would post a clear picture of the inside of the lock. Here are some possibilities. First, the bridle plate screws are loose allowing the fly to jump out of it's pin hole. Check all the screws to see that they are tight, except for the sear screw which should only be snug - allowing the sear to still freely move. Next, is there a chance this is a Spanish lock like on a CVA or something similar? If so, there is a little screw on some of them that can adjust the amount of sear engagement with the tumbler. That screw may be screwed in too far. Next, check the hammer screw to make sure it is not loose. The above answer about the trigger bar interfering with the sear bar is a strong possibility also.
We need pictures to help. What brand of lock also.
We need pictures to help. What brand of lock also.
That lock doesn't have a "fly",, it's Ok,
Try some oil, on everything, Honest,, plenty of oil,, these lock need lubrication
Try some oil, on everything, Honest,, plenty of oil,, these lock need lubrication
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you cant see it in the pics cause the fly is small. when trying to cock it the hammer sear slides over the half and full cock notches without engaging
I see the pin hole for the fly to rotate on in the tumbler. There should be an internal recess to contain the fly to prevent it from blocking the full cock notch. Is the tumbler set fully near the plate to prevent the fly from getting out of that recess? The hammer will have to come off and the tumbler removed to look at the side of the tumbler that holds the fly.
yes that is what I thought also. I cant do that and I saw on u tube where there are special tools for the springs. sounds like you have done something like that
May I recommend that you go to the L&R web site and see if they have an RPL (replacement) lock for your rifle. You will be much better off going that route.
Yes, @SPQR70AD, I have taken a few locks apart. I do recommend the mainspring vise to remove the mainspring. I also recommend the gunsmith screwdriver sets to get blades that fit the slots to take thee lock apart. You will need a pin punch the diameter of the square post on the hammer side of the tumbler and a block to drive the tumbler from the hammer. Some people make a square punch to drive the tumbler and hammer apart.
The most recent issue (August 2023) of "Muzzle Blasts" has an article on polishing a flint lock. While the lock pictured is a different model with the fly on the outside of the tumbler, the article does a good job of explaining how to take the lock apart for polishing. Your lock is a much simpler lock than the one in the article.
For some reason or other the fly is not staying only in the vicinity of the half cock notch. Is the tumbler fit to be almost flush with the lock plate to keep the fly in the recess? Is the hammer properly seated on its square post to pull the tumbler properly in place?
Yes, the L&R possible replacement lock will be much better than the lock you have, it will cost about as much as a repair on your lock, maybe a bit more and may not be available for your rifle. Who is the manufacturer? The rifle has Italian proof marks on the barrel.
The most recent issue (August 2023) of "Muzzle Blasts" has an article on polishing a flint lock. While the lock pictured is a different model with the fly on the outside of the tumbler, the article does a good job of explaining how to take the lock apart for polishing. Your lock is a much simpler lock than the one in the article.
For some reason or other the fly is not staying only in the vicinity of the half cock notch. Is the tumbler fit to be almost flush with the lock plate to keep the fly in the recess? Is the hammer properly seated on its square post to pull the tumbler properly in place?
Yes, the L&R possible replacement lock will be much better than the lock you have, it will cost about as much as a repair on your lock, maybe a bit more and may not be available for your rifle. Who is the manufacturer? The rifle has Italian proof marks on the barrel.
Uncle Miltie
50 Cal.
The gunsmith at The Log Cabin in Lodi OH can repair your lock at reasonable cost. I have use them for repairs many times.
that is exactly what I am looking for but I will contact L+R first to see about a new lock. thanks a lot for the info
all it says on the barrel is made in Italy. it is a gorgeous lightweight rifle. it is like a Penn style rifle with a hooked breech. maybe Sile made it. can I find L+R on the web or do I need to know what the L and R stand for
thanks to all of you guys for taking the time to help I will look into L+R. but what does the L and R stand for?
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just type L&R locks in your search line
L&R stands for L&R Lock Company. They make a replacement line of locks for about five different production guns. While they say replacement, there will be some fitting required as well as a tune up of the lock as delivered.
https://lr-rpl.com/
yes I found it. I messaged them to see if they can work on it or if I send it in match it with one they have
L & R. That's all you need to know.
