cap lock work

[SPQR70AD]

in these pics not great but you can see the fly right by the half cock notch. the fly follows the tumbler as the hammer is cocked

 

[SPQR70AD]

I see the pin hole for the fly to rotate on in the tumbler. There should be an internal recess to contain the fly to prevent it from blocking the full cock notch. Is the tumbler set fully near the plate to prevent the fly from getting out of that recess? The hammer will have to come off and the tumbler removed to look at the side of the tumbler that holds the fly.

I think you are right about the recess to hold the fly. I just have to find someone to do it. I am no good at that type of work . I framed houses did roofing and concrete work for 45 years. when something was out of whack I just employed the sledge hammer lol

 

[Grenadier1758]

Back to speculating on my part, @SPQR70AD, I think there is a buildup of dried grease in the recess for the fly. The sear should push the fly out of the way as the sear follows the tumbler to have access to the half cock notch. The fly should be shaped so that when the nose of the sear passes the half cock notch it will push the fly back to cover the half cock notch. The fly is sticking to the sear nose and not moving in the recess. I can see the recess in your latest pictures. It is going to take disassembly and serious cleaning in the tumbler. Some very light oil is needed to get the fly to freely move in that recess. You don't have a great lock, but it should work. You may have to polish, but without removing any metal in the sear nose to prevent the fly from sticking to the sear nose. The rubbing edges of the fly may require some polishing too.

 

[SPQR70AD]

Back to speculating on my part, @SPQR70AD, I think there is a buildup of dried grease in the recess for the fly. The sear should push the fly out of the way as the sear follows the tumbler to have access to the half cock notch. The fly should be shaped so that when the nose of the sear passes the half cock notch it will push the fly back to cover the half cock notch. The fly is sticking to the sear nose and not moving in the recess. I can see the recess in your latest pictures. It is going to take disassembly and serious cleaning in the tumbler. Some very light oil is needed to get the fly to freely move in that recess. You don't have a great lock, but it should work. You may have to polish, but without removing any metal in the sear nose to prevent the fly from sticking to the sear nose. The rubbing edges of the fly may require some polishing too.

I cant do that but a member on this thread gave me a site called log cabin and I messaged them. he said a smith will fix it and he has done work for him already. the fly on my lock moves freely and follows the tumbler as the hammer is cocked. so somehow it might have come out of the recess you mentioned

 

[deerstalkert]

I cant do that but a member on this thread gave me a site called log cabin and I messaged them. he said a smith will fix it and he has done work for him already. the fly on my lock moves freely and follows the tumbler as the hammer is cocked. so somehow it might have come out of the recess you mentioned

if there is any way you can swing it, get the L&R replacement lock. it will enhance your enjoyment of the rifle having a good lock.
from what i see it looks like the fly is to long. someone replaced it and neglected to finish the rough casting properly. But as you have stated several times its out of your pay grade to modify it so, your best bet is to replace it.
second best is have it worked on. having it worked on may work but it is still going to be a lesser lock.

 

[SPQR70AD]

if there is any way you can swing it, get the L&R replacement lock. it will enhance your enjoyment of the rifle having a good lock.
from what i see it looks like the fly is to long. someone replaced it and neglected to finish the rough casting properly. But as you have stated several times its out of your pay grade to modify it so, your best bet is to replace it.
second best is have it worked on. having it worked on may work but it is still going to be a lesser lock.

I have so many rifles of both types that I only fired that a few times and I noticed the hammer was slipping. I looked at the L&R locks and the all had 2 holes behind the hammer mine has one. I emailed them to see if they can work on it. dont really need a better lock hopefully this can be fixed cause I will never wear it out anyway

 

[BruceHH]

I have so many rifles of both types that I only fired that a few times and I noticed the hammer was slipping. I looked at the L&R locks and the all had 2 holes behind the hammer mine has one. I emailed them to see if they can work on it. dont really need a better lock hopefully this can be fixed cause I will never wear it out anyway

You will get a different kind of lock from L&R, much better built than the one you have. Don't worry about the number of holes etc.., the L&R locks are different internally and have have more parts. L&R is not going to work on your lock. It probably is just dried grease or worn parts, but you Do need a better lock. Post full pictures of your rifle to include clear pictures of all the writing and someone here will tell you what you have. Then you can call L&R and see if they have an RPL lock for your rifle.

Until then, spray that baby down (internally) with WD 40, brush/spray all the crud out and then oil generously and make sure your screws are tightened - except for the sear screw - just snug.

 

[ord sgt]

I replaced a Dixie flint lock with one from L&R. I had to do a little trimming of wood around the new lock to get fitted to the lock mortice. New lock really works. Good spark from the flint and frizzen. L&R is highly recommended by me.

 

[SPQR70AD]

You will get a different kind of lock from L&R, much better built than the one you have. Don't worry about the number of holes etc.., the L&R locks are different internally and have have more parts. L&R is not going to work on your lock. It probably is just dried grease or worn parts, but you Do need a better lock. Post full pictures of your rifle to include clear pictures of all the writing and someone here will tell you what you have. Then you can call L&R and see if they have an RPL lock for your rifle.

Until then, spray that baby down (internally) with WD 40, brush/spray all the crud out and then oil generously and make sure your screws are tightened - except for the sear screw - just snug.

I did post pics of the proof marks and all it says on the barrel is made in Italy. could not have worn it out only shot it a few times. I will blast it with brake cleaner then lightly oil it. I wish that would work but I am not lucky. one member here gave me a website where he had a smith work on locks for him. so I emailed them

 

[BruceHH]

I really am trying to help you. Pictures of the rifle will help ID what model it is. Those locks are barely able to function correctly even on good days. When you see a properly built lock, you will understand. I understand you want to have the most economical approach, but you are about to spend money on something and regret it. And as a side note, I did not say oil it lightly - and I do not recommend ever using brake cleaner on anything that is around sparks. It has dangerous chemicals in it that can turn your brain to mush when it vaporizes from heat. If cleaning and oiling along with checking the screws does not work, you are fixing to have an expensive rebuild. Good luck.

 

[SPQR70AD]

I really am trying to help you. Pictures of the rifle will help ID what model it is. Those locks are barely able to function correctly even on good days. When you see a properly built lock, you will understand. I understand you want to have the most economical approach, but you are about to spend money on something and regret it. And as a side note, I did not say oil it lightly - and I do not recommend ever using brake cleaner on anything that is around sparks. It has dangerous chemicals in it that can turn your brain to mush when it vaporizes from heat. If cleaning and oiling along with checking the screws does not work, you are fixing to have an expensive rebuild. Good luck.

 

[SPQR70AD]

I did put pics of the rifle and pics of the proof marks. you said to use WD 40 which is flammable and I use it as starter fluid. cleaning it will do nothing cause there is no grease or gunk anywhere. I will put more pics of the rifle tomorrow