Files for making barrel lug dovetails

[Bucolic Buffalo]

So the problem I have is, the lugs measure 470 thousands at the widest. My Grobet files are at least 520 thousands wide. I have dug through all I have and the older stuff just isn't suitable. Where are you guys finding good metal files a bit less than a 1/2" in width? Preferably no more than 420 thousands or so wide so I can finish making the dovetail to fit well.

My little files are so small that I could be here half the winter. I am not hitting the right search terms apparently.

 

[wiscoaster]

You sure aren't finding them at Home Depot or Ace Hardware, so I'm posting just to watch this thread for answers from those who know.

 

[Phil Coffins]

To cut dove tails you don’t need a wide three corner file, cut the balk out with any tools you need then just the 60* angle with the three corner file with one safe side. I use a hardware store 1/4” Triangular file that I took to the grinder to remove the teeth on one flat. It’s done dozens of dovetails! It really not that hard.

 

[wiscoaster]

...took to the grinder to remove the teeth on one flat....

Great idea!! Thanks!!

 

[Phil Coffins]

Here’s the tools and the results.
IMG_0474 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[64Springer]

ACE Hardware sells Nicholson Cresent files.

Three sided triangular.

I've cut countless dovetails with them.

And they're well under .420 inches.

Turn one side into a safe side and you're golden.


PS: Just measured mine. .295 inches. And don't let anyone tell you these Brazil made files are junk.

 

[The Appalachian]

What Phil and 64Springer said is what I do for all dovetails.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I have a hardware store triangular safe edge file for roughing in. However, I much prefer the fine, sharp cornered dovetail file from Brownells for final fitting. It matches the sharp corners of the sight base.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Phil, 64, and Tom have it right. I cut the depth first with a hacksaw and then finish the job with a hardware store file. The sharp edge can be gained by grinding the safe edge far enough to get the sharp edge.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Buy a good file from. Brownells

 

[The Appalachian]

Phil, 64, and Tom have it right. I cut the depth first with a hacksaw and then finish the job with a hardware store file. The sharp edge can be gained by grinding the safe edge far enough to get the sharp edge.

Yep, nothing at all difficult about it.

 

[IanH]

I've done many with safed triangle files and hacksaw on both muzzleloaders and modern. It goes faster with a coarser triangle file to tough out the flat, finish with a fine safe-edge. The Brownells file is nice and I have one but it is outrageously expensive for what it is.

Nowdays I cheat, bigtime.

I of course use a 3/8" R8 collet instead of a keyless Jacobs chuck when doing it for real, but you get the idea.

 

[64Springer]

I've done many with safed triangle files and hacksaw on both muzzleloaders and modern. It goes faster with a coarser triangle file to tough out the flat, finish with a fine safe-edge. The Brownells file is nice and I have one but it is outrageously expensive for what it is.

Nowdays I cheat, bigtime.

View attachment 262635
I of course use a 3/8" R8 collet instead of a keyless Jacobs chuck when doing it for real, but you get the idea.

That right there is some mighty fine cheat'in.

 

[Norman Brooks]

Same method as Phil Coffins.

 

[wiscoaster]

Same method as Phil Coffins.

Nice set of pics. This thread worthy of bookmarking.

 

[waksupi]

I've done many with safed triangle files and hacksaw on both muzzleloaders and modern. It goes faster with a coarser triangle file to tough out the flat, finish with a fine safe-edge. The Brownells file is nice and I have one but it is outrageously expensive for what it is.

Nowdays I cheat, bigtime.

View attachment 262635
I of course use a 3/8" R8 collet instead of a keyless Jacobs chuck when doing it for real, but you get the idea.

Works great if you have a mill. It can wreck the quill if it is tried with a drill press. I've heard people whine the cutter breaks easily. Then I hear they tried to do all the cutting with the fly, rather than cleaning up the cut with it. Yep, that would break them alright!

 

[Bucolic Buffalo]

Thanks all!

My current triangle files are either too small, too worn, or too fine. I shall remedy that. Interesting use of the hacksaw and cold chisel. I never even thought of using a hacksaw, and several of you builders do that.

 

[IanH]

Works great if you have a mill. It can wreck the quill if it is tried with a drill press. I've heard people whine the cutter breaks easily. Then I hear they tried to do all the cutting with the fly, rather than cleaning up the cut with it. Yep, that would break them alright!

The setup must be absolutely rigid. Cut the slot to depth with the square end mill, change cutters, skim the bottom and take multiple, light passes to clean up the corners. Lots of lube, preferably a misting system. Cool thing is if you need another thousandth or two skimmed out perfectly square to fit the sight, just dial it in and make another pass.