rich pierce
70 Cal.
Sets of lock castings bring all sorts of unexpected challenges because they copy originals, without considering whether the lock as it is cast will work well in a variety of situations. In this case, after assembling my new build I found the sear arm was short enough that it did not pass beyond the trigger plate. Not sure why I hadn’t noticed that. Seemed to work during the build but maybe just barely.
So I made a lap joint extension with a piece of 1080 steel, pinned with a 1/16” rivet, wrapped it tight with tie wire, and brazed it using propane torch and a brick cubby. I figured this might be suitable for a period repair. There was not enough extra material to draw it out, and welding something this tiny in a forge seems risky. I wait till the braze has run, then file and polish it. Then I re-harden and quench without worrying about the braze joint, as the hardening temp is less than braze flow heat. Then I temper to 450 in sand-filled can for an hour. You can see the rivet and braze joint after cleanup, hardening, and quench better.
So I made a lap joint extension with a piece of 1080 steel, pinned with a 1/16” rivet, wrapped it tight with tie wire, and brazed it using propane torch and a brick cubby. I figured this might be suitable for a period repair. There was not enough extra material to draw it out, and welding something this tiny in a forge seems risky. I wait till the braze has run, then file and polish it. Then I re-harden and quench without worrying about the braze joint, as the hardening temp is less than braze flow heat. Then I temper to 450 in sand-filled can for an hour. You can see the rivet and braze joint after cleanup, hardening, and quench better.