• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Degreasing parts

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If you really want yo go all out, I'd recommend putting on your latex gloves, then warm/hot soapy water first. Then your choice of acetone, denatured alcohol, or 91%-100% rubbing alcohol, or non-cloranated brake fluid. Any of those work, I personally prefer denatured alcohol. I use white paper towels to apply, but cotton would be great. The main thing is to keep the gloves on. Have a dowel in your vise with a tapered rap of tape to plug the end when you slip it on after decreasing.
 
Denatured alcohol.
Have a few on hand..
Wet one with the alcohol wipe the area, then wipe it dry. Do not let the alcohol evaporate, if you do, all the contaminates will remain.
Do this a couple of times, after both are remaining clean. ( if the rags are showing any form of contaminates)
Then, you will have a surface that is clean.
I was a certified fuel tank sealer for the largest aircraft manufacturer that isn’t Airbus. Surface adhesion requires a perfectly clean surface the same as any form of bluing requires.
 
Denatured alcohol.
Have a few on hand..
Wet one with the alcohol wipe the area, then wipe it dry. Do not let the alcohol evaporate, if you do, all the contaminates will remain.
Do this a couple of times, after both are remaining clean. ( if the rags are showing any form of contaminates)
Then, you will have a surface that is clean.
I was a certified fuel tank sealer for the largest aircraft manufacturer that isn’t Airbus. Surface adhesion requires a perfectly clean surface the same as any form of bluing requires.
Great description thank you.

Respectfully
TerryC
 
Will Acetone safely work to degrease/remove skin oils from ML builds? I have a barrel with Jax black that I want to adjust the color. I have handled it and need to clean it first. What should I use?

Respectfully
TerryC
Acetone is my go to degreaser! It is probably one of the safest products of this type you can get? One does need to protect eyes and lungs. If you are going to use it only 30 minutes or so you need no protective gloves. With prolonged use of acetone make sure you use gloves. When grease sees acetone coming it jumps out of the way! LOL!
 
Acetone is my go to degreaser! It is probably one of the safest products of this type you can get? One does need to protect eyes and lungs. If you are going to use it only 30 minutes or so you need no protective gloves. With prolonged use of acetone make sure you use gloves. When grease sees acetone coming it jumps out of the way! LOL!
Thank you, I used it last night, and everything seemed to work fine. I will continue after church today.

Respectfully
 
What you might try on a test piece of metal would be to use acetone to lift the oils off the surface then ethyl alcohol to evaporate all those lifted contaminates. Be sure to test this out first before you go to the firearm.
 
Back
Top