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Degreasing parts

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What you might try on a test piece of metal would be to use acetone to lift the oils off the surface then ethyl alcohol to evaporate all those lifted contaminates. Be sure to test this out first before you go to the firearm.
Why use acohol at all? Acetone drys faster than acohol.
 
Why use chemicals at all? Been doing this for a 30 plus years, and NEVER used acetone, brake cleaner, alcohol, etc. All you have to do is remove skin oils, and any wax, lube you’ve added.
A bath in 409, a scrub bush, and water is all it takes.
Water is the universal solvent!
 
Why use chemicals at all? Been doing this for a 30 plus years, and NEVER used acetone, brake cleaner, alcohol, etc. All you have to do is remove skin oils, and any wax, lube you’ve added.
A bath in 409, a scrub bush, and water is all it takes.
Water is the universal solvent!
Try blueing a gun after you wash it? a good solvent leaves very little doubt as to whether or not it is clean. Water and soap and a a bunch of other things work but you may not know until it is to late and you find your blueing has a blank spot.
 
I do like acetone or break cleaner for a solvent cleaner, but I also have used Bon-Ami and hot water with great success you just have to rinse it well to remove all traces of it. The use of Bon Ami is also a wetting agent when used to clean your metal parts for rust bluing. Use gloves after cleaning to keep your fingerprints off the metal surfaces.
NOTE:
Bon Ami never uses harsh chemicals.
Bon Ami uses feldspar as the base abrasive mineral in our product. It does not contain chlorine bleach, perfume, or dye.
 
Zug, I haven't heard of Bon-Ami in years but I think my wife has some in the panty, thanks for the information. I will definitely try it!
 
I do like acetone or break cleaner for a solvent cleaner, but I also have used Bon-Ami and hot water with great success you just have to rinse it well to remove all traces of it. The use of Bon Ami is also a wetting agent when used to clean your metal parts for rust bluing. Use gloves after cleaning to keep your fingerprints off the metal surfaces.
NOTE:
Bon Ami never uses harsh chemicals.
Bon Ami uses feldspar as the base abrasive mineral in our product. It does not contain chlorine bleach, perfume, or dye.
I have seen this but had no idea it could be used as a degreaser. Thank you.

TerryC
 
Why use acohol at all? Acetone drys faster than acohol.
As is said in the post - the acetone gets the contaminate to the surface but as it evaporates the contaminate stays on the surface but then the alcohol is supposed to carry the contaminate off the surface. But this should be verified on a test piece of material.
I like the post that a detergent and water rinse would be best. It sounds as if he has a good bit of experience.
 
As is said in the post - the acetone gets the contaminate to the surface but as it evaporates the contaminate stays on the surface but then the alcohol is supposed to carry the contaminate off the surface. But this should be verified on a test piece of material.
I like the post that a detergent and water rinse would be best. It sounds as if he has a good bit of experience.
Acohol and acetone are both fluids how can one leave contaminates and the other doesn't? All I know is I have never had a blueing/browning job fail using acetone.
 
Acetone will leave a residue in many applications and is usually followed up by cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol to remove the acetone residues. I use acetone to degrease parts that are coated in a Cosmoline type grease that mineral spirits will not remove by itself. Once the acetone has evaporated, it will leave behind a tacky orange powder that is almost impossible to remove from etched or blasted parts. I only use acetone on the more stubborn parts where the grease has hardened, then wash and scrub in mineral spirits. If you want to use acetone on parts such as gun barrels which are raw steel that has been draw filed and finished by sanding or using steel wool, I would follow up with denatured alcohol or IPA to remove any acetone residue that might be present. I don't know all the chemical properties of acetone as a degreaser, but do a search on the net as to "Why does acetone leave behind a residue when degreasing metal" and you will find a whole host of articles and post explaining why. Most say acetone is such an evaporator that it dries so fast that it leaves behind dry solids which are suspended in the grease or oil.
 
Acetone will leave a residue in many applications and is usually followed up by cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol to remove the acetone residues. I use acetone to degrease parts that are coated in a Cosmoline type grease that mineral spirits will not remove by itself. Once the acetone has evaporated, it will leave behind a tacky orange powder that is almost impossible to remove from etched or blasted parts. I only use acetone on the more stubborn parts where the grease has hardened, then wash and scrub in mineral spirits. If you want to use acetone on parts such as gun barrels which are raw steel that has been draw filed and finished by sanding or using steel wool, I would follow up with denatured alcohol or IPA to remove any acetone residue that might be present. I don't know all the chemical properties of acetone as a degreaser, but do a search on the net as to "Why does acetone leave behind a residue when degreasing metal" and you will find a whole host of articles and post explaining why. Most say acetone is such an evaporator that it dries so fast that it leaves behind dry solids which are suspended in the grease or oil.
Very well explained.

Terry C
 
Acetone will leave a residue in many applications and is usually followed up by cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol to remove the acetone residues. I use acetone to degrease parts that are coated in a Cosmoline type grease that mineral spirits will not remove by itself. Once the acetone has evaporated, it will leave behind a tacky orange powder that is almost impossible to remove from etched or blasted parts. I only use acetone on the more stubborn parts where the grease has hardened, then wash and scrub in mineral spirits. If you want to use acetone on parts such as gun barrels which are raw steel that has been draw filed and finished by sanding or using steel wool, I would follow up with denatured alcohol or IPA to remove any acetone residue that might be present. I don't know all the chemical properties of acetone as a degreaser, but do a search on the net as to "Why does acetone leave behind a residue when degreasing metal" and you will find a whole host of articles and post explaining why. Most say acetone is such an evaporator that it dries so fast that it leaves behind dry solids which are suspended in the grease or oil.
Your post is precisely what I learned in preparing metal surfaces for high vacuum vessels for a research project in solid state physics. Thank you.
 
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