One of the first things to understand about smoothbores is that there is no rule of thumb, unless it is that when you hold your thumb very firmly against the stock, the ball will move in the direction the thumb is pushing.
Now to get serious, you are getting the balls to impact in more or less a group and it is low. This seems reasonable since you are sighting along the barrel. I have found in my Long Land Pattern Bess and my light fowler, you have to see some of the barrel between the breech and the front lug or sight. Yes the rear sight is your eye and you raise or lower the impact at the target by raising or lowering your eye. It is normal to see some of the barrel when you are pointing a smoothbore. The other choice is to bend the barrel, but that seems to be too extreme for what you are describing.
Soon you will learn that it is the cheek on the stock for short ranges or the lower tooth line for longer ranges. I use the slot in the tang bolt as an indicator for the rear of the breech. It is easier to line up the eye to the lug by looking over that slot in the bolt. I always line up that slot with the barrel.
Those big military muskets will often have a fairly large touch hole. You should probably drill yours out to 1/16". If you need to, then you can go up to 5/64". I have a set of number drills to get the diameters between 0.062 and 0.078". A number 50 drill measures 0.070"
I think you are doing pretty good with your purchase so far.
What you want is an 1817 common rifle, very much like an 1816 musket at .54 served as the rifled arm of the US military almost through the Mexican War.tenngun,
Yeah, same here. Shooting more accurately with a shot gun comes with practice but there are also good reasons why somebody invented rear sights.
If the sight on the rear band works for me there may be a second barrel in the future for the 1816, rifled for heavy charges behind .65" ball. It can be my "Model 1818 sniper musket".
You don’t actually chew on the musket balls, I put mine in a rock tumbler for about 20 min, the result is the balls have small divets or dents on them, this cuts back on windage, works great with a paper patch or paper cartridge.chewed balls, OUCH!!! a better man than me??
I think a rear sight on the M1816 will allow me to be much more accurate with the smooth bore barrel. With a rifled barrel, oh boy... wouldn't know until I tried it. Then again, I may sell the M1816. We'll see.What you want is an 1817 common rifle, very much like an 1816 musket at .54 served as the rifled arm of the US military almost through the Mexican War.
Rear sighting a Charleville or 1816, is just not really worth the trouble.
Burnishing and polishing the bore and using a tightly patched well lubed round ball, will get you where you need to be most of the time considering all other elements of the shooter.
Unless you want to experience shooting the smooth bore without the rear sight..., and you will need to work up a load for that as well..., you might want to:I can not wait to back out to the range and get this down.
I've got two beads on my new side by side that annoy me. I'm thinking about removing the little one. What would you do sir?Just as shooting a modern shotgun where you set your cheek weld to give you the same neutral view of the barrel rib each time while seeing the entire front bead, you are looking for a consistent view of the top of the barrel. If you really look when you shoulder the gun you’ll notice it takes very little change in cheek position to give you a very different picture of the top of the barrel. Practice shouldering the gun and it won’t take long. Focus on your cheek bone, the comb, the front sight, and the view of the top line of the barrel.