• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Buggered screw purpose?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jan 10, 2024
Messages
24
Reaction score
15
Location
Farmville VA
I have acquired a Thompson/Center Hawkens style muzzle loader recently and am posting a picture of its barrel. There is a screw that is all buggered up with a red arrow pointing to it. I would like to know its purpose. Does it hold something together or is it covering a clean out hole. It looks like someone attempted to remove it without much luck. I believe that it is rusted in place. I have soaked it for days now with liquid wrench but have had not much luck removing it. As you can see from the photo there is not much left of the original slot on the screw. I may have to take it to a gunsmith to remove it.
It is missing the ram rod. The length of the barrel is 29 inches not including the tang that holds the barrel in the stock. It is marked 50 Cal. Any one have an idea of the length and diameter of the ram rod that was original to this rifle?
 

Attachments

  • test.JPG
    test.JPG
    654.6 KB · Views: 7
That is the breech plug cleanout screw, which allows you to stick a small diameter wire in to clear a blocked flash hole. If you have it removed, I would suggest using an Allen-type grub screw with judicious anti-seize.
Not sure what diameter T/C used on the ramrods, I would suggest using an aftermarket synthetic range rod for actual loading. They are unbreakable and usually accept a palm-saver handle. Keep the wood ramrod for looks.
 
That is the breech plug cleanout screw, which allows you to stick a small diameter wire in to clear a blocked flash hole. If you have it removed, I would suggest using an Allen-type grub screw with judicious anti-seize.
Not sure what diameter T/C used on the ramrods, I would suggest using an aftermarket synthetic range rod for actual loading. They are unbreakable and usually accept a palm-saver handle. Keep the wood ramrod for looks.
It is NOT a clean out screw. It is a byproduct of the TC early manufacturing process to connect the nipple hole and bore. At some point TC started drilling that connecting hole from the nipple to the breech area in the bore from the side opposite the nipple (and ground off the screw slot) after years of warranty claims with buggered up screws in this so called ‘clean out’ hole. If one stays at it, they can bugger up this set screw if they are really determined, but why? Clean it up the best you can, then leave it alone and enjoy shooting the gun.
 
It is NOT a clean out screw. It is a byproduct of the TC early manufacturing process to connect the nipple hole and bore. At some point TC started drilling that connecting hole from the nipple to the breech area in the bore from the side opposite the nipple (and ground off the screw slot) after years of warranty claims with buggered up screws in this so called ‘clean out’ hole. If one stays at it, they can bugger up this set screw if they are really determined, but why? Clean it up the best you can, then leave it alone and enjoy shooting the gun.
Interesting points. I was about to post "clean out screw" so thanks for posting correction. Agreed with approach to remediating situation.
 
I use wooden rods on my gun, it shoudd have the head on then dropped down the bore. Cut off a bit above the end.
TC have a patten breach, meaning a small chamber inside the screws of the breach. You need a stepped jag to clean.
This was invented about 1790 and became seen on lots of guns after percussion took over.
If you read old journals you often see references to wiping sticks, what we would call a range rod
The trick to loading is to use short thrust on the ball. Don’t grab the rod high as it will bend and can break. Grasp rod about six to eight inches above the bore. And push down with short strokes. This way rod can’t bend laterally
To clean remove your barrel then nipple and put in a bucket of water. Use patch and jag to pump water into the barrel and wipe at same time
Some find hot water and a little soap or detergent good, some use plain. Some see flash rust from hot and use cool water,
Then dry and oil
Pop a few caps before loading, or run a patch on your rod down bore and listen to whoosh of air out of nipple to show path is clear
Leave that screw alone, after manufacture it serves no purpose
 
It is NOT a clean out screw. It is a byproduct of the TC early manufacturing process to connect the nipple hole and bore. At some point TC started drilling that connecting hole from the nipple to the breech area in the bore from the side opposite the nipple (and ground off the screw slot) after years of warranty claims with buggered up screws in this so called ‘clean out’ hole. If one stays at it, they can bugger up this set screw if they are really determined, but why? Clean it up the best you can, then leave it alone and enjoy shooting the gun.
Well, OK. If you say so. I'm not real familiar with the T/C rifles as mine are Lymans, and yes, the Lyman does have a clean out screw. I use it every time I clean the rifle.
I stand corrected.
 
Back
Top