Advice Needed

[Mike in FL]

I'm guessing, but I'd say Jim will pay the shipping both ways.

 

[TDM]

Jim is going to install a new tang and take care of it all. Hard to beat that kind of customer service.

 

[Scota@4570]

Always call Kibler first. Jim gets annoyed when people post questions on forums instead of asking him.

I dropped a SMR barrel and bent the tang. I called Bree and had a new one quickly. The cost is reasonable. Swapping tangs is simple. The tang is a CNC made part, they are interchangeable.

As far as messing up the new one, fit it to the stock. The factory inlet is too tight for me. There are two ways to go. Carefully scrape the wood and relieve it where tight a few thousands. Use sharpie marker for spotting stuff.

The second way is heat. It is better. Heat the tang to yellow heat color, about 450*. Slowly push it down into the inlet. Do not jam it in hard. It will go smoothly. It may take a couple of passes to fully perfect the inlet. It will not char the wood, it may brown. If it get scary spritz with water. The water will keep the top surface of the wood from going black.

Heating the tang and assembling into the wood is how the best double gun makers get the final perfect fit. That temperature will melt the lignen in the wood making it pliable. The tang being hot will be ever so slightly larger than when cold. The result is a perfect fit with a slight tolerance.

I have done this on all of the SMRs I have assembled. The tang is too tight and invites behind it or chipping the wood or bending the tang in my clumsy hands.

 

[longcruise]

Always call Kibler first. Jim gets annoyed when people post questions on forums instead of asking him.

I dropped a SMR barrel and bent the tang. I called Bree and had a new one quickly. The cost is reasonable. Swapping tangs is simple. The tang is a CNC made part, they are interchangeable.

As far as messing up the new one, fit it to the stock. The factory inlet is too tight for me. There are two ways to go. Carefully scrape the wood and relieve it where tight a few thousands. Use sharpie marker for spotting stuff.

The second way is heat. It is better. Heat the tang to yellow heat color, about 450*. Slowly push it down into the inlet. Do not jam it in hard. It will go smoothly. It may take a couple of passes to fully perfect the inlet. It will not char the wood, it may brown. If it get scary spritz with water. The water will keep the top surface of the wood from going black.

Heating the tang and assembling into the wood is how the best double gun makers get the final perfect fit. That temperature will melt the lignen in the wood making it pliable. The tang being hot will be ever so slightly larger than when cold. The result is a perfect fit with a slight tolerance.

I have done this on all of the SMRs I have assembled. The tang is too tight and invites behind it or chipping the wood or bending the tang in my clumsy hands.

What a great tip for inletting the tang.

 

[TDM]

Always call Kibler first. Jim gets annoyed when people post questions on forums instead of asking him.

I dropped a SMR barrel and bent the tang. I called Bree and had a new one quickly. The cost is reasonable. Swapping tangs is simple. The tang is a CNC made part, they are interchangeable.

As far as messing up the new one, fit it to the stock. The factory inlet is too tight for me. There are two ways to go. Carefully scrape the wood and relieve it where tight a few thousands. Use sharpie marker for spotting stuff.

The second way is heat. It is better. Heat the tang to yellow heat color, about 450*. Slowly push it down into the inlet. Do not jam it in hard. It will go smoothly. It may take a couple of passes to fully perfect the inlet. It will not char the wood, it may brown. If it get scary spritz with water. The water will keep the top surface of the wood from going black.

Heating the tang and assembling into the wood is how the best double gun makers get the final perfect fit. That temperature will melt the lignen in the wood making it pliable. The tang being hot will be ever so slightly larger than when cold. The result is a perfect fit with a slight tolerance.

I have done this on all of the SMRs I have assembled. The tang is too tight and invites behind it or chipping the wood or bending the tang in my clumsy hands.

Good installation advice. Thanks.

 

[Nor'Easter]

Always call Kibler first. Jim gets annoyed when people post questions on forums instead of asking him.

I dropped a SMR barrel and bent the tang. I called Bree and had a new one quickly. The cost is reasonable. Swapping tangs is simple. The tang is a CNC made part, they are interchangeable.

As far as messing up the new one, fit it to the stock. The factory inlet is too tight for me. There are two ways to go. Carefully scrape the wood and relieve it where tight a few thousands. Use sharpie marker for spotting stuff.

The second way is heat. It is better. Heat the tang to yellow heat color, about 450*. Slowly push it down into the inlet. Do not jam it in hard. It will go smoothly. It may take a couple of passes to fully perfect the inlet. It will not char the wood, it may brown. If it get scary spritz with water. The water will keep the top surface of the wood from going black.

Heating the tang and assembling into the wood is how the best double gun makers get the final perfect fit. That temperature will melt the lignen in the wood making it pliable. The tang being hot will be ever so slightly larger than when cold. The result is a perfect fit with a slight tolerance.

I have done this on all of the SMRs I have assembled. The tang is too tight and invites behind it or chipping the wood or bending the tang in my clumsy hands.

I've heard Marlin historically fitted their butt stocks with that process.

 

[flntlokr]

On rare occasion , if the b/p tang is cast steel , It might have just cracked at a tiny flaw. (Casting imperfection)

In a lot of instances, the cast steel gets over-hardened, and thus subject to breaking. I see the still attached portion standing up out of the inlet. If that is the case, and the end of the tang was being bent down only by the tension on the screw, all of the energy and shock would concentrate on that very weak point, so I am not surprised to see it break. I have always had to bend the tangs to fit the contour of the stocks on pretty much every gun I've put together. That allows the shock etc. to be absorbed by the wood rather than concentrating it on the screw at such a weak point in the tang. (my 'take' on the situation and how it might be avoided.)

 

[IanH]

My understanding of the Kibler SMR is the tang is supposed to have a little bit of spring to it and as-machined it stands proud of the wrist when the barrel is in place and both tang screws pull it into the inlet when snugged. The tang and lollypop is drafted appropriately to do this without binding in the inlet. When removing the barrel, the tang should pop out of the inlet on its own as the screws are removed, preventing chipping of the wrist inlet when bumping the comb on a padded surface to pop the barrel out of the stock from the breech end first.

 

[mikesto44]

Looked to me that the screw was over tightened. Which stressed the tang and caused the problem overtime. JM2C

 

[TDM]

Looked to me that the screw was over tightened. Which stressed the tang and caused the problem overtime. JM2C

Rest assured the bolt was not over tightened.

 

[TDM]

My understanding of the Kibler SMR is the tang is supposed to have a little bit of spring to it and as-machined it stands proud of the wrist when the barrel is in place and both tang screws pull it into the inlet when snugged. The tang and lollypop is drafted appropriately to do this without binding in the inlet. When removing the barrel, the tang should pop out of the inlet on its own as the screws are removed, preventing chipping of the wrist inlet when bumping the comb on a padded surface to pop the barrel out of the stock from the breech end first.

My understanding too.

 

[TDM]

The issue has been resolved, so no need to continue beating a dead horse. Thanks, to most of you, for your responses.

 

[Nor'Easter]

Didn't know if I should use the "laughing", "sad", or "angry" emoji!

The number of people that 'struggle' with inter-personal communications skills is daunting.