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New here, need some advice.

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Each cleaning included scraping the breech plug and running dry patches at the breech plug with a patch screw. My intent was to have a totally clean and dry barrel at each shot for consistency. My misfires were no flash. Not lack of main charge ignition. A standard mill basturd file cuts the frizzen face pretty easy. I'm going to call Brad at Cabin Creek tomorrow and see about sending it to him while I fix the barrel lugs. Thanks to all for input.
 
From the pic's, the tenon is incorrect. No wonder it came loose. not enough contact surface. New tenons need to be soldered to the barrel and re-pinned to the stock. give the barrel some cool down time between shots. Here is a solution to your flint misfire. Also, wipe your flint, top and bottom, and frizzen after each shot. Semper Fi.

IMG_4121.JPG
 
Each cleaning included scraping the breech plug and running dry patches at the breech plug with a patch screw. My intent was to have a totally clean and dry barrel at each shot for consistency. My misfires were no flash. Not lack of main charge ignition. A standard mill basturd file cuts the frizzen face pretty easy. I'm going to call Brad at Cabin Creek tomorrow and see about sending it to him while I fix the barrel lugs. Thanks to all for input.
Overkill friend. You don't need to clean between shots.
 
Not to hi Jack but what you said Dave. The cock can be adjusted,,,HOW,,, please I'm trying to learn all I can. I know about flipping the flint but not adjusting the cock. Thanks

Well one way is to have a smith heat the neck and to bend the jaw slightly downwards. ONLY do that in an extreme case, as most locks tend to have pretty good geometry and once done it's done.

The next way is that first, you open the back of the leather in the jaw, so that the jaw screw is in direct contact with the bare back of the flint.


Flintlock Illustration with SHIM.jpg
The leather looks like this out of the jaws
Flintlock Jaw LEATHER.jpg


The upper version has the jaw screw inserted through the leather, so that if you lose the flint, the leather doesn't drop out either. The lower version is the more common, and simpler style.

The next thing is you use a wooden matchstick, under the base of the flint. This raises the back end just a bit, and changes the angle of the edge of the flint to less than 90° which can cause lots of problems when the impact angle is that square or nearly so. You use the smaller version of a wooden matchstick as you only need it to move a small amount. This also is important because all flints are different, and you might have one or two that need this to work well, but then the third and fourth one you find work well without it, so it's a temp solution to a current problem, and doesn't permanently alter your lock.

FLINTLOCK MATCHSTICK.jpg


For the folks with a military musket using a lead wrap, you pound a bullet pretty flat, then cut a piece of lead off that flattened bullet, about the same size and shape as a small wooden matchstick, and insert it where the wooden matchstick would go to get the same result.

LD
 
Each cleaning included scraping the breech plug and running dry patches at the breech plug with a patch screw. My intent was to have a totally clean and dry barrel at each shot for consistency. My misfires were no flash. Not lack of main charge ignition. A standard mill basturd file cuts the frizzen face pretty easy. I'm going to call Brad at Cabin Creek tomorrow and see about sending it to him while I fix the barrel lugs. Thanks to all for input.good dia... Good diagnosis...
Good diagnosis ....Best of luck
 
Update. I silver soldered new lugs on the barrel and got it mounted. Turns out, hardening a frizzen is not hard to do. I used Track's Tru Spark carbonizing compound and followed directions. Fired the gun 23 times without a misfire. It worked so well I hardened the frizzen on my Jim Chambers gun I built 12 years ago that was pretty chewed up from a lot of firing. Thanks again for the input.
 
Update. I silver soldered new lugs on the barrel and got it mounted. Turns out, hardening a frizzen is not hard to do. I used Track's Tru Spark carbonizing compound and followed directions. Fired the gun 23 times without a misfire. It worked so well I hardened the frizzen on my Jim Chambers gun I built 12 years ago that was pretty chewed up from a lot of firing. Thanks again for the input.
Thats great !! Thanks for the info too . I gotta get some of that Tru Spark !
 
Update. I silver soldered new lugs on the barrel and got it mounted. Turns out, hardening a frizzen is not hard to do. I used Track's Tru Spark carbonizing compound and followed directions. Fired the gun 23 times without a misfire. It worked so well I hardened the frizzen on my Jim Chambers gun I built 12 years ago that was pretty chewed up from a lot of firing. Thanks again for the input.
I'm glad things turned out well!

Walt
 
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