Acra glas solvent/thinner

[Crow Choker]

By the way Dave, the fiber flock you mentioned, is that a glass fiber and where might someone get that?

Brownell's sells the floc for $10 for a bag. I bought some years ago and haven't even used half of it. The amount Brownell's sells would probably be equal to stuffing an average size sandwich bag 'to the gills'. One thing that has gotten terrible is postage. A ten-dollar item such as the bag of floc will almost double the price of it due to shipping. I have no idea where else it can be found, sure there is some outfit selling it.

I don't glass bed to many firearm barrels anymore but use it with small amounts of acraglas, even mix it with some Devcon epoxy when needed. Not much is needed for effect. As Dave mentioned, I to believe the Acraglas gel already has floc in it as when mixing floc with regular Acraglas or any epoxy, it will have the same look and consistency of Acraglas gel. I've never used the gel to bed a barrel, sure it works, I like it for smaller areas and jobs. I find it works great for alot of things non-gun related. I even Acraglassed a tooth cap once that came off one long holiday weekend with the gel, my dentist was taking a whole week off also. Worked, he thought I did a pretty good job, advised that that epoxy was pretty good stuff when he removed the cap for proper dentistry, as he had to really use all of his tricks to do so.

Also don't forget the release agent. Mostly for folks who haven't used any epoxy to bed a barrel. Without a release agent the barrel will be glued to the stock and near impossible to remove without damage to the stock.

Ya, big step in flashing lights!!! I've read several horror stories of guys who forgot to use release agent or properly apply when using any form of Acraglas or epoxy. I've always used Brownell's release agent with great results but did use the paste wax method several times that Dave mentioned just to see how it worked. No problem. Coat everything even if you don't think it needs it 'there', that epoxy will run/get into places wherever it wants if allowed. The use of modeling clay works to keep the epoxy out of areas not wanted such as lock, trigger, etc.

Be careful around areas where any metal hooks, goes around, goes into any area of wood as that can be a real PITA when you go to remove the barrel or any part you've glassed for a tight fit. The wood/metal may not be glued together but the tightness of the joint doesn't aid "in a harmonious separation"! It's a whole separate post in how I know!!!

 

[longcruise]

This is specifically an epoxy thinner. I haven't used it but several bowyers I know have and had good results with both smooth on products and other epoxies.

https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/epic-epoxy-thinner/

 

[Crow Choker]

Not to trash using epoxy thinners in any way, some may need it depending on what the epoxy is being used for, but if using the regular Brownell's Acraglas (not the Acraglas gel) for bedding a barrel channel, in my opinion and experience with it, it really doesn't need thinning. You put the desired amount in the channel, set the barrel in, clamp/use whatever set screws are used to hold barrel, and the excess will ooze out.

 

[Nazgul58]

Hi,
I use Minwax furniture paste wax, 2 buffed coats. The release agent sold with Acra Glas also works well as long as the barrel is well degreased before painting it with the agent. I always use a heat gun to warm sections of the barrel until hot to the touch before pulling it from the barrel channel. Removing barrels, especially thin walled fowler barrels can be a little tricky. It helps immensely if you scraped away excess epoxy that oozed up along the barrel while it is still tacky. I place the stock with the muzzle end in a vise and insert a dowel into the bore. I heat the barrel with a heat gun until it is fairly hot to the touch then I whack the dowel upward to release the barrel at the muzzle. Once I can lift a section up, I place the handle of a screw driver under the barrel across the stock. Then I heat the section behind the screw driver and slowly push the screw driver back toward the breech levering up the barrel a little further. I keep that up until the barrel pops out. Just go slow and use heat.

Thanks Dave. I am going to use this on a build with Black Walnut my father cut. from a tree by our house 40 years ago. Been saving a couple pieces for stocks. It does not seem as dense as I would like so this will strengthen the forward end of the stock.

Don

 

[bptactical]

I have glassed a handful of frontstuffers but very many modern center fire firearms and have learned a few things:
A couple notes on bedding- the Acraglass release agent is too thick IMO. I have used Paste wax, Kiwi shoe polish and car wax.
All work well with 2 light coats and buff with a shoe polishing brush. The biggest thing is to remember to use it!
My favorite is 3M Marine wax and right before setting the item in the stock a light spray of Mold release agent. Pam cooking spray works well too. Not enough to wet the items but a very light fog coat.
It seems to help things release easier.
Prep work is everything- modeling clay is an essential I haven’t seen mentioned yet. Use it to fill any features on the barrel/tang/component that would lock it in place- screw holes, undercuts, dovetails, lugs etc.
Don’t forget release agent on any fasteners! Screws, wedges etc!
On the subject of screws I will wrap some painters tape or use o-rings around the shank of the screw prior to applying release to:
A- help keep bedding from running places it is not wanted.
B- centers the screw in the hole to prevent contacting the stock- it ensures the clamping force of the screw is a straight force with no side bias introduced- probably no biggie on a M/L but huge on a C/F firearm.

I like to use blue painters tape to mask as much of the stock as possible- I will run it right up to the side of the barrel and lay a coat of wax on it- the compound that oozes out cleans up so much easier.
I like to wait on clean up until the compound has reached a “rubbery” stage- it’s so much easier than trying to herd up sticky gooey compound. I use plastic razor blades (Plastic razor blade) to scrape/trim away the compound.

I have never been a big fan of Acraglass, the M/L’s that I bedded I used it but it is too pricey and too thin/runny for my liking.
The majority of the time I will use Devcon 10110- it is a steel infused epoxy paste that is not runny. I do see how it would be objectionable for a traditional rifle if it was visible.
I may try West Systems Epoxy next time I need a clear, thin body bedding compound. A buddy of mine who builds serious benchrest rifles swears by it.
A couple things important with epoxies- fold the two parts together- don’t whip them or stir vigorously- try not to introduce air into the batch.
Once mixed give it some dwell time (except 5 minute epoxies) let the mix set for a few minutes before applying it. It lets the polymerization process begin so you will get good link chains started and good cure. As a general rule the longer it takes to cure the stronger as it forms longer link chains.

 

[Mad Hatter]

I have glassed a handful of frontstuffers but very many modern center fire firearms and have learned a few things:
A couple notes on bedding- the Acraglass release agent is too thick IMO. I have used Paste wax, Kiwi shoe polish and car wax.
All work well with 2 light coats and buff with a shoe polishing brush. The biggest thing is to remember to use it!
My favorite is 3M Marine wax and right before setting the item in the stock a light spray of Mold release agent. Pam cooking spray works well too. Not enough to wet the items but a very light fog coat.
It seems to help things release easier.
Prep work is everything- modeling clay is an essential I haven’t seen mentioned yet. Use it to fill any features on the barrel/tang/component that would lock it in place- screw holes, undercuts, dovetails, lugs etc.
Don’t forget release agent on any fasteners! Screws, wedges etc!
On the subject of screws I will wrap some painters tape or use o-rings around the shank of the screw prior to applying release to:
A- help keep bedding from running places it is not wanted.
B- centers the screw in the hole to prevent contacting the stock- it ensures the clamping force of the screw is a straight force with no side bias introduced- probably no biggie on a M/L but huge on a C/F firearm.

I like to use blue painters tape to mask as much of the stock as possible- I will run it right up to the side of the barrel and lay a coat of wax on it- the compound that oozes out cleans up so much easier.
I like to wait on clean up until the compound has reached a “rubbery” stage- it’s so much easier than trying to herd up sticky gooey compound. I use plastic razor blades (Plastic razor blade) to scrape/trim away the compound.

I have never been a big fan of Acraglass, the M/L’s that I bedded I used it but it is too pricey and too thin/runny for my liking.
The majority of the time I will use Devcon 10110- it is a steel infused epoxy paste that is not runny. I do see how it would be objectionable for a traditional rifle if it was visible.
I may try West Systems Epoxy next time I need a clear, thin body bedding compound. A buddy of mine who builds serious benchrest rifles swears by it.
A couple things important with epoxies- fold the two parts together- don’t whip them or stir vigorously- try not to introduce air into the batch.
Once mixed give it some dwell time (except 5 minute epoxies) let the mix set for a few minutes before applying it. It lets the polymerization process begin so you will get good link chains started and good cure. As a general rule the longer it takes to cure the stronger as it forms longer link chains.

Very good write up. For epoxy work I have done, weather it's 5 gal. or a teaspoon, all receving surfaces are forced rubbed with just enough epoxy to coat, followed up with the amount it takes to do the job. This could be anything from long hand held vegtable brush, to just a finger, depending on size of job. I switched from modleing clay to duct putty, stronger lot less likley to mush.