1st time browning question

[Danno]

So this is my first time browning a barrel and I'm a little apprehensive. I'm using the laurel mountain forge cold browning solution. I've applied 3 coats now and it still appears quite mottled. I'm aiming for a smooth plumb brown. Is this normal and I just need to keep going? Do I need to card more aggressively? Am I applying too little or too much solution? I'm probably just being overly anxious but would love some opinions from those who've done this before.

 

[tenngun]

It’s normal. Rub down with steel wool. Apply in only one direction and don’t go over a second time. It may take a week or more.

 

[Pepster]

I'd use cut up Denim Jeans over steel wool as not to imbed steel particles that may come back & bite you with rust in the future.

 

[Pepster]

Looks good to me!

 

[Pepster]

Prolly ask the questions first before doing it?
Lol!

Looks fine to me, & don't worry it is completely removable.
Its not permanent, easily removable so no worries if your not happy.

 

[Pepster]

I'd say that is a FINE JOB Danno!
Better than I did my first try!
Google "Draw Filing".

It may interest you for your next project.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

I just finished my first browning too and you look to be on track. I used denim to “card” (rub briskly) between coats of the LM rust browning solution. I started browning it around 8am, allowed 3-3.5 hours between coats, and did this until maybe 8pm each day for 3 days. Towards the end I started to use a carding brush instead of the bluejean material (soft wire brush designed for this purpose). If you use steel wool, go LIGHTLY or you will remove the coating too. And use 0000 that has been soaked in acetone to remove factory oils that are always on new steel wool. BlueJean material is safest.

Here are a couple of before/after pics to keep you motivated:

 

[Larry Akers]

Danno, LMF is a very strong solution so if you are looking for a smooth finish you need to dilute it. Use distilled water to dilute to at least. 4 parts water to 1 part LMF. Second, after every rust cycle card ALL the rust off. I use a wire wheel (.005" dia. wires) mounted in my drill press. You cannot remove enough rust with a piece of cloth unless all you want from your browning is color. To achieve resistance to rust and protection from scratching also, you need to apply many coats and card all the rust off.

 

[Danno]

Took Larry's advice and diluted the solution and began carding more aggressively. Color is coming along however the texture is still quite "bumpy". Is this how its supposed to be? I really only have modern rifles to compare.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Took Larry's advice and diluted the solution and began carding more aggressively. Color is coming along however the texture is still quite "bumpy". Is this how its supposed to be? I really only have modern rifles to compare.View attachment 33717

I had the same concerns.... The final step in the browning instructions from LM are to neutralize it with a warm water and baking soda mix, rinse well, then dry with heat and coat with oil. That oil coating does miracles! The bumps will remain, but they look much less pronounced when it's all a very even brown color, and the oil does that. Stay the course! Worse case scenario, you can remove the browning even when it's finished, and start over with LM or alternative product.

 

[Pete G]

I would sand to 220 grit and start over. Do not take so much time between cardings.

 

[87TT]

Exactly. If you see rust pits, it's gone too far. Take steel wool (cleaned ) or a new Scotch Brite pad and smoothit out even if some of it goes to the bare metal. You just want a reddish haze. Then while running it in warm water, wipe it with a coarse cloth. Here are the two barrels I have done with LMF. The one on the left is one I did a while bvack and have been using a while. the other is new.

 

[Pepster]

Larry Akers NAILED IT!

LMF is VERY AGGRESSIVE!

I always dilute it when Bluing or Browning...

It will ETCH the steel if left too long...

 

[Pepster]

It will retain oil "as is" Danno, & that's the most important thing (I'd Grease it).

Don't think the "Browning Police" are gonna show up @ your house (If they do, don't mention MY NAME!).

As mentioned before, if you want to totally remove the finish, it takes about 45min - 1hr submerged in a Vinager Bath & you can start with a clean slate.

 

[Pepster]

I'd leave it as is, & grease it occasionally & it will be around A LONG TIME!

 

[Pepster]

The ONLY REASON such finishes are applied is to retain oil.
Browning bye itself without oil is not a very good defense against rust.

 

[Danno]

Well I went ahead and finished it. Came out a little rougher than I was aiming for but I think i like it. We'll see when the stock is finished and all is said and done. Thanks for all the replies and help everyone!