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SMR common barrel color

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mike54

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Mike

Mike how did the Jax Black work for you i been wanting to find someone thats used it im trying to get that aged worn look i would appericate any input you can give me on this thanks and for your time.
I feel it worked great. Very easy to use. i used gray synthetic steel wool to rub it back to get the aged look and used different pressures to give it a lighter and darker color. I have been shooting the gun for about a month and it seems to be holding up very well.
 
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Yes, the tenons do need slotting. I use a jewelers saw. It’s a pain in the neck in my opinion, but a necessary pain in neck. I don’t make long slots, maybe just over 1/16” either side.
I figured it out! Since developing CRS after Covid I forgot i had purchased some 1/8 inch carbide burrs just for this reason. There they were sitting on the shelf begging to be used. The set of 20 comes with a couple of pointed burrs. Presto done. The jewelers saw I did try again before hand and though I was able to slot one hole i don’t have a file that small to clean up the slot. The burr worked perfectly. The tabs on the barrel are very hard. i do prefer the replaceable tabs over the integrated tabs which I think are harder. I remember the reason I bought those burrs was because I have a rifle that the tabs were not slotted on. They will be before next use.
Cheers
 
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I feel it worked great. Very easy to use. i used gray synthetic steel wool to rub it back to get the aged look and used different pressures to give it a lighter and darker color. I have been shooting the gun for about a month and it seems to be holding up very well.
Thanks Mike im going to give it a try on my up comming build .
 
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Steel lengthens 1/10th of an inch per foot when red hot. I don't know the expansion of a hot blackpowder arm, but the barrels don't change color so the temp is low. A sixteenth of an inch slotting ought to be more than enough.
The barrel thermal expansion is not the primary reason for slotting lugs. Expansion / contraction of the wood as ambient humidity changes is the big concern. On perfectly straight grained stocks, this isn't much of a concern, but even plain wood is not always cut such that the forestock is perfectly parallel to the grain direction. Add curl to the mix and movement becomes even more of an issue. I would suggest at least 1/16" on either side of the pin and probably 3/32" would be better. Lugs closest to the back of the barrel need less, while those near the muzzle require more.
 
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The tenons are not hard. Maybe 25 HRC max. As to a jewelers saw / file, I find it does a better job than burrs. The problem with burs is keeping the slot in a precise line. They have a tendency to drift up or down. Not ideal...
The tenons take the drill well I drilled all four with the bit 55 and 52 bits provided in your kit. I also like that little shop aid kit so much I purchased several more. I’m kind of a horder and will probably never need them. But they are great! I do agree you have to be careful. I have worked with dotcos and air grinders most of my life so I know how to use them. The little dremal with a tapered 1/8 burr worked flawlessly for me. I purchased the most expensive jeweler saw from Amazon and I struggled trying to slot the first hole. I gave up. Found the bits I bought years ago turned up the revs maintaining pressure no chatter. I have four slots that the pin can now move front to back. I looked high and low for a round file that would fit the tip in a number 52 hole no joy. I’m sure they exist but I couldn’t find any. I know slotting is the correct thing to do i have two pendersoli and a TVM custom built none of which are slotted. They are cracked stocks waiting to happen. I think if you know like shooting pistols if you limp wrist them the outcome will be less than desirable. Same applies to using a dremel. I would never do it any other way after this it worked out perfectly and saved me a boat load of time.
 
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