• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

LMF browning/blueing so far...

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
1,828
Reaction score
2,091
Location
N.C. and elsewhere
I'll start by saying, I have the equipment to do a slow rust blackening and have done it many times. However, I felt like looking into this product just because. I had the barrels smooth as glass with paper from 240 down to 2500 grit. Used a folded square of cotton fiber material and soaked with LMF solution. Wiped down barrels from breach to muzzle with hardly any pressure. Slight coloration occurred almost immediately. I hung the barrels in 88.6% humidity for two and a half hours. Rust formed as it should have. I noticed some shiny, coppery spots in a few places. I gently wiped the barrels in one direction from break to muzzle with 0000 steel wool. The orange rust crud came off easily. The barrel appeared streaky and mottled. I want a blackened finish so I need to boil it for 5-minutes. Don;t you know it, my tank that is supposed to be 27.5 inches apparently is not because the 26 inch barrels don't fit fully. Not to waste time, I put the boiling distilled water in the tank and put the barrels in as much as I can. I use a ladel to keep the boiling water all over the barrels, swapping the barrel around half-way into this to let the other side be fully submerged also. After 5-minutes I rinse with cold water. The result is a streaked, greyed barrel with a few shiny copper spots still showing. That's when I realized I should have boiled, then carded.

Take two: I use a cotton swab soaked with LMF to coat the barrels and hand them for two and a half hours. This time a use a 2" PVC tube as a tank. After the allotted time, I put the barrels in the tank, and fill with boiling distilled water. Wait 5-minutes. Remove with heat gloves. Now I gently removed the surface "powder" with 0000 steel wool and then rinse with cold water. Much better! The black is deep and much more even, but not perfect. The shiny copper spots are gone. I left it overnight because I could not fit another two and a half hours in that night. In the morning, the black has turned slightly darker and a little hazy. There is some orange rust here and there but not much. The plan is to repeat the same method for Take Three. Maybe do this four or five times.

Am I on the right track?
 
You need to boil or steam the metal longer, and you should stop at 320 grit to give the bluing some
"tooth" to grab on to.

Better method I came across I've used for the last few guns I've blued. I had used pvc with a flange at first, but this melts after you do so many barrels. I settled with a couple sections of stove pipe to steam in, and set the stove pipe directly into the pot of boiling water. Find a pot that this will set on top of, cast iron preferred.
Then get a piece of metal, or even wood, and drill a hole, or holes in it, to put in a wire hook to hold a barrel. Set the pot on a hotplate and bring water to a boil. Drop your small parts directly in the water to boil. Let boil for 25 minutes minimum. The steam in the tube does a fine job. The steam part actually takes only 20 minutes, but the boiling parts will need 25 minutes, as the water is not as hot as the steam.
Let cool, wash off any loose residue, then steel wool or wire brush. Repeat as necessary.
 
Last edited:
Take 3: I lightly 0000 steel wooled in on direction. Applied with a cotton swab LMF solution, one long stroke from breach to muzzle, barely touching the surface so I saw it get wet. This time I left it for the whole 3 hours - and about 20 minutes more. Put in the PVC tube and filled with boiling water. This time I left it in the boiling water 10-minutes. I took it out and gently stroked it with steel wood while it was hot. Then a cold rinse. Another steel wool rub-down just enough that I could see the "dust" from the now black rust come off and the barrel was smooth. After the rub-down the barrel is now very dark and the coat is even. I may stop at this coat. However, I left it dry for about 4 hours and some more rust developed as expected. I removed this with the steel wool too. It is a nice dark, even finish now. I'm going to let it sit overnight, rub it down again and see if it needs another treatment.....
 
Am I on the right track?
Nope, as soon as ya saw the copper color,, you have to start over,, from scratch.
It's explained plainly in the directions. Over application. No amount of attempting a re-do with the copper color present will make an acceptable full brown or boiled blue finish.
 
It says it will “impede the browning process”. It doesn’t mention bluing nor does it say it will prevent it from working altogether. Nowhere does it say there is a need to stop and start over.

Maybe I got lucky. The bluing is dark colored, even and “shiny” or polished, probably from gently removing scale with 0000 steel wool.

The silver streaks are just a reflection…
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
Back
Top