Traditions Flintlock Kit Nosecap

In the process of assembling my traditions kit I noticed my brass spacer is too small for the gap. Therefore, my new plan is to conjoin the two stock pieces into one and order a longer nose cap to put on the end. I believe the Traditions barrel is 7/8" flats, so does this mean I want the nose cap that is labeled 7/8"?

Thanks

Yes

Have you considered making a spacer using a similar wood as the stock?

fishmusic said:

Have you considered making a spacer using a similar wood as the stock?

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I did, but I couldn't find any beech shims, so I figured you would still be able to see the separate pieces after staining.

There have been a number of posts here where builders have done a great job of using wood to join the stock and blend it very well. You may want to use the search function to scope those out.

bdub1792 said:

my brass spacer is too small for the gap.

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Is the spacer too thin or not tall/wide enough?

SDSmlf said:

Is the spacer too thin or not tall/wide enough?

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It is too thin

bdub1792 said:

It is too thin

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Yeah, they always are. And it's that gap that creates most of the inaccuracy associated with these rifles, along with folks that don't understand the dynamics of the stock fit.
As you make your repair/upgrade,, keep in mind that you will be moving the position of the front barrel pin as you move the fore-stock back as well as the nose cap,,

bdub1792 said:

It is too thin

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Your stock has shrunk and is now too short. You could slot the screw holes in the the nose cap, as I remember, they go through the stock (someone may correct me) and thread into the barrel. You will also, no matter what, have to slot the holes in the barrel tenons, as the stock will change length because of environmental conditions over time.

Below is a photograph of an unfired, CVA factory made gun (same design, just an earlier version of your gun), with 40 plus years in a humidity controlled environment (Heat/AC plus dehumidifier in the safe). It’s been on my todo list for years to slot the tenons and nose cap so the stock is free to move over time without opening up a gap between the two pieces, but with a gun that’s never been shot it just doesn’t get to the top of the list.

Oh, and if you eliminate the spacer, you will find the grain of both pieces do not match. Best you can hope for is ‘good job hiding the seam, I can hardly see it’.

I measured the actual gap a made a spacer to fit. Its visible if you know where to look. The nose cap provided worked just fine.

necchi said:

Yeah, they always are. And it's that gap that creates most of the inaccuracy associated with these rifles, along with folks that don't understand the dynamics of the stock fit.
As you make your repair/upgrade,, keep in mind that you will be moving the position of the front barrel pin as you move the fore-stock back as well as the nose cap,,

Click to expand...

Following on with what Nechi said, when doing this job on a Traditions Kentucky I used a slim file to lengthen the holes in the lugs. Downward tension is maintained, but parts can self-adjust as barrel heats and cools. At the front end I secured the cap to the stock with epoxy, then lengthened the holes for the screws. Seems to work.

Next action will be to reduce the comb height on the buttstock. That thing is a real cheek whacker, bound to discourage new MLers.

bdub1792 said:

I did, but I couldn't find any beech shims, so I figured you would still be able to see the separate pieces after staining.

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I’m looking at “restoring” an old one myself. I have a 1/4” or so square of ebony I might use as a spacer. It’d stand out on purpose.

stewart.leach said:

Next action will be to reduce the comb height on the buttstock. That thing is a real cheek whacker, bound to discourage new MLers.

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Another nice touch is to roll the barrel channel sides, it helps get rid of those blocky lines of the fore-stock.
And these things are front heavy, adding a pound or so to the butt really helps with balance,,
,,remove the butt plate, drill two 3/8" holes touching in a V,, and fill'm with lead. Been there, done that.

stewart.leach said:

Following on with what Nechi said, when doing this job on a Traditions Kentucky I used a slim file to lengthen the holes in the lugs. Downward tension is maintained, but parts can self-adjust as barrel heats and cools. At the front end I secured the cap to the stock with epoxy, then lengthened the holes for the screws. Seems to work.

Next action will be to reduce the comb height on the buttstock. That thing is a real cheek whacker, bound to discourage new MLers.

Click to expand...

SDSmlf said:

Your stock has shrunk and is now too short. You could slot the screw holes in the the nose cap, as I remember, they go through the stock (someone may correct me) and thread into the barrel. You will also, no matter what, have to slot the holes in the barrel tenons, as the stock will change length because of environmental conditions over time.

Below is a photograph of an unfired, CVA factory made gun (same design, just an earlier version of your gun), with 40 plus years in a humidity controlled environment (Heat/AC plus dehumidifier in the safe). It’s been on my todo list for years to slot the tenons and nose cap so the stock is free to move over time without opening up a gap between the two pieces, but with a gun that’s never been shot it just doesn’t get to the top of the list.

Oh, and if you eliminate the spacer, you will find the grain of both pieces do not match. Best you can hope for is ‘good job hiding the seam, I can hardly see it’.

Click to expand...

I have read that I need to slot my tenons so that it will allow then stock to move as the temperature changes and such...but how do you all do this? I have tried to find videos or pictures but to no avail.

bdub1792 said:

I have read that I need to slot my tenons so that it will allow then stock to move as the temperature changes and such...but how do you all do this? I have tried to find videos or pictures but to no avail.

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Do you have any needle files? If not, it may be time. There are other methods, but for example, few have a vertical Bridgeport.

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