Provisional hole in barrel is off

[Versanaut]

Greetings all,

A couple years ago I inherited a CVA pistol kit from my grandfather. I started to tinker with dry fitting components when I noticed the nose cap, when aligned with the threaded hole in the barrel gives a large gap between the nosecap and the 'forearm' and the nose cap sits about a 1/16 proud of the muzzle. I thought maybe the cap was mis-drilled so I ordered another cap from Deer Creek. Nope. Same dimensional problems. I thought maybe the wood had shrunk from being in a attic for a while, but all the other components fit up fine. Plus the overhang on the barrel would not be caused by wood shrinkage. So I believe the hole on the barrel is on the wrong spot.

I figure the only two options I have is to plug it (gotta find a fit) or weld over it and park two new holes myself. Both holes would overlap the plug/weld and while this isn't truly structural, I'd be concerned my poor craftsmanship (only have build one rifle.. 10 years ago) would cause this to come loose after some use.

The other route could be to cut the barrel short and drill fresh holes.

She's been on the top shelf now for a couple years with my indecision so I'm looking for a push or even a left field thought from ya'll.

I appreciate your suggestions in advance.

Cheers,
VN

 

[rich pierce]

1) Work on the nose cap, not the barrel. Far less risk and trouble. You can’t shorten it, or move it backward? Or fill the screw holes and re-drill?
2) Or make a horn or other material nosecap to replace the one you have.
3) Or ditch the nosecap.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Install a barrel loop and pin the stock to the barrel, then plug the screw holes and cast a pewter tip.

 

[2 shots]

i did as mr. coffins said except i used a cut down sheet brass rifle cap. barrel should be 7/8. or you could pin the barrel and rivet or epoxy the original cap in place and fill the holes with the cut down screws

 

[44Bro]

Looking at your pics. The barrel needs to be set back a bit so the drum is centered on the lockplate. Before ANY fiddiling with the nosecap. Then if necessary the nosecap can be fitted.

 

[BruceHH]

44Bro is dead on. Barrel to lock plate first, then the other parts and the nose cap last.

 

[Rifleman1776]

CVA kits support the "you get what you pay for" adage perfectly. No offense, but you should not have expected better. Some good suggestions so far. And, use yer own ingenuity.

 

[Phil Coffins]

This is a snow ball project, if you set the barrel back to line up with the lock that will help line up the screw holes then the nose cap can be set back. Now will the tang to trigger plate line up? Many hours of fun ahead!

 

[BS]

Just add a brass or dark woods spacer between the two. Epoxy and pin.

 

[64Springer]

Just add a brass or dark woods spacer between the two. Epoxy and pin.

Between the two what?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Don’t you enjoy it when a fellow starts at the end to respond to the question.

 

[Scota@4570]

The CVA way to attach the nose cap and barrel is pretty poor.

One could fill the screw holes with spelter solder or brass rivets soldered in place. Then properly attach the nose cap with a screw from the inside.

Attaching it with epoxy would work well too. Rough it up inside with an electro pencil or whatever to give the glue some tooth.

A barrel tenon would need to be added to the barrel and a pin used to retain the barrel.

 

[BS]

Between the two what?

Clear as mud!

Add a brass end cap spacer. 3/32 or 1/8".......what ever thickness to fill the gap.

Sorry Phil.

 

[BS]

Like Bruce HH used on his Mule Ear project.

Only in between the two.

Do you understand?

 

[BEP]

Whatever method you select, it's important to remember the only things holding that barrel to the stock on one of these is the tang bolt - sometimes just a tang screw, not a throughbolt - and that bit of wood captured by the nosecap. If you have to compromise that nosecap's function at all the above suggestion to rough things up and use epoxy would be a good one.

 

[Phil Coffins]

View attachment 229032

Yes, then the barrel is shorter then the nose cap.

Clear as mud!

Add a brass end cap spacer. 3/32 or 1/8".......what ever thickness to fill the gap.

Sorry Phil.

 

[BS]

Yes, then the barrel is shorter then the nose cap.

That is not good, missed that.

Cut off the end and shorten and reattach end of the cap.

 

[BS]

I would only use the previous stated fix if you were getting paid to fix it by the hour!

Just braze the hole and move it would be the easiest fix.

 

[flntlokr]

Greetings all,

A couple years ago I inherited a CVA pistol kit from my grandfather. I started to tinker with dry fitting components when I noticed the nose cap, when aligned with the threaded hole in the barrel gives a large gap between the nosecap and the 'forearm' and the nose cap sits about a 1/16 proud of the muzzle. I thought maybe the cap was mis-drilled so I ordered another cap from Deer Creek. Nope. Same dimensional problems. I thought maybe the wood had shrunk from being in a attic for a while, but all the other components fit up fine. Plus the overhang on the barrel would not be caused by wood shrinkage. So I believe the hole on the barrel is on the wrong spot.

I figure the only two options I have is to plug it (gotta find a fit) or weld over it and park two new holes myself. Both holes would overlap the plug/weld and while this isn't truly structural, I'd be concerned my poor craftsmanship (only have build one rifle.. 10 years ago) would cause this to come loose after some use.

The other route could be to cut the barrel short and drill fresh holes.

She's been on the top shelf now for a couple years with my indecision so I'm looking for a push or even a left field thought from ya'll.

I appreciate your suggestions in advance.

Cheers,
VN

I would make a new nose cap of antler or brass, or simply make a 'filler' of something similar to bridge the gap, and file the overhang off. If you used horn or antler, adding a couple of decorative inlays elsewhere would disguise the fact that it is a repair. The other alternative, as someone else suggested, would be to lose the nose cap completely and re-shape the fore end accordingly. I have done that with a CVA Kentucky in order to lighten the front end. I also re-shaped the grip and added a pommel, so the end result resembled a LePage. Sorry I don't have pics for you (sold it).

 

[Phil Coffins]

Shortending or other wise altering the cap isn’t really an option, I have one on the bench that makes me confident of that.

IMG_0378 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr