I have a .45 cal percussion rifle that when fully cocked, and if the cock is pulled to the rear and released the cock goes fully forward and fires the rifle. The cock will stay as it normally should fully cocked and fire normally unless it is pulled back and released. I know precious little of the workings of locks, and don't really like to work on such things. Is this an easy fix or should I send the lock out for repair.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
what's wrong here?
- Thread starter mushka
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,624
- Reaction score
- 1,268
In you situation I think you will be ahead to have some one repair it. It is probably due to a problem easily fixed.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2008
- Messages
- 1,895
- Reaction score
- 2,094
Rearward movement of the hammer should not release the tumbler. You should learn about the inner working of the lock. Remove the lock from your firearm and look at the internal parts. Become familiar with them and their movements. Knowledge is power.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Is there a fly in your lock? If there is, it is working as designed.
Put it at full cock and gently cuff it with the palm of your hand to see if it maintains its full cock position.
Robby
Robby
rafterob
62 Cal.
What Pete G says...
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2013
- Messages
- 1,874
- Reaction score
- 2,394
If you don't know how a lock works and don't want to learn, you need to sell the rifle.
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2019
- Messages
- 6,873
- Reaction score
- 7,851
Copy that!
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2019
- Messages
- 6,873
- Reaction score
- 7,851
Well, gosh, everyone starts somewhere; I don't know how to fix my car's engine, but I still drive. He can have it repaired, then study the things later and learn from that. This isn't a "do or die" hobby. I agree with sawyer04 fully. Chill a bit, guys.
The first thing to do when troubleshooting a lock is to determine if the lock works correctly out of the rifle. Most lock problems are caused by wood interference. Make sure the lock is lubed and clean. That would be a good start.
Sometimes a good cleaning is all that's needed. Take the lock off and inspect it. Could be full of dirt and gunk.
appalichian hunter
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2018
- Messages
- 5,828
- Reaction score
- 9,430
I agree with tallpine, pull the lock look in the mortice where the lock fits into the stock (you may use a magnifying glass) what your looking for is wear marks in the mortice if so use a small sharp chisel and gently remove a small bit of the wood where the mark is replace the lock and check, here is where a bit of inletting black is nice but a candle will soot up the lock also hold the lock close to the flame you will see the soot on the metal place the lock back in the mortice and use a small block of wood to gently seat the lock, remove the lock and check for soot marks on the wood these are your high spots that may be interfering with the lock internals. If so gently remove the high sooted spots and repeat the procedure.
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2005
- Messages
- 5,026
- Reaction score
- 10,016
Hi,
Actually, the first question is what kind of lock because if it is one with coil main and sear springs rather than proper "V" springs, the diagnoses may differ.
dave
Actually, the first question is what kind of lock because if it is one with coil main and sear springs rather than proper "V" springs, the diagnoses may differ.
dave
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 3,006
- Reaction score
- 6,463
Pete,
Rethink your reply. The fly works to keep the sear out of half cock. If I understand th OP, the lock is by passing the full cock too. As Dave said we really need to know more about the lock.
Larry
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,624
- Reaction score
- 1,268
I have made a nice living out of repairing other people flub ups. If interested I tried to show the customer and if there was a next time they could fix it, but if not interested that was OK too. Probably saved themselves some money.
The lock is litterely two screws. Pull it out and just look at it. It may just need a good cleaning.
Don't do that.
Erwan
45 Cal.
Have you checked to see if the notch (where the sear goes in), the angle is really sharp and not rounded ?
Hey Mushka...........Some free advise....4-u There are many things that can cause a lock to fire the cock forward when fully cocked. If your unfamiliar w/these problems , for safety sake , please find someone that can fix the problem. If you can't cock the lock into the fire position , that's hammer all the way back , and bump the rifle butt firmly on the floor , it's not safe to use. ......oldwood
Your statement implies that your sear is not going into the full cock notch. Step 1 is to remove the lock and observe the function of the lock. Does it enter the half cock notch? Does it enter the full cock notch? Most of the time this step is done to determine where to look next as in many cases the lock works fine when removed from the stock. Step 2: Now that the lock is out of the stock look in the lock mortise for signs of rubbing. After a couple of years of removing and replacing a lock for cleaning, the sear arm starts to get pulled in too deep and wood will prevent the sear from entering the full cock notch. In that case a little bit of wood removal or a tiny bit of grinding at the end of the sear arm that is moved by the trigger lever will solve the problem. Put the lock back into the stock. If you still have the problem go to the next step. Step 3: Does the lock go into full cock if the triggers are set (assuming you have set triggers)? If the lock functions properly with triggers set, then the tang screw has been over tightened pulling the trigger plate too deeply into the trigger mortise. That will require a ship under the trigger plate to lower the trigger lever so the trigger lever isn't riding on the sear, preventing the sear from entering the full cock notch. Step 4: Once again I am assuming you have set triggers. Back the screw out at least three turns. Can you put the lock into full cock? If yes, then put the lock in full cock and screw the set trigger screw in until the lock releases. Back the screw out one full turn and the lock should function as designed.
