Which caliber .50 or .54 percussion

[Wes/Tex]

If one caliber has any true inherent accuracy advantage over the other, I'd credit the .54's heavier ball to better wind bucking abilities to be the possible answer. A lot depends on what you intend to use any gun for. Neither caliber is of much value for small game, though small game has indeed been taken with both if a solid, accurate load is developed. The larger, heavier ball will do more tissue damage to game and deliver more energy to a metal target...sounds like your decision is aimed in the right direction. Just remember to have fun! :thumbsup:

 

[BullRunBear]

Never had a problem knocking over steel targets at 100 yards with a 50 cal. My shooting ability was the limiting factor. But the higher scores in our group usually went to the 54 shooters as I recall. If you are shooting beyond 100 yards, I think the 54 would help.

The GPR does have a hooked breech and it does make cleaning easier not to mention eliminating getting moisture into the stock.

Btw, I've found I get more consistent accuracy using real black powder instead of Pyrodex, at least in my MLers. I buy in bulk which brings the per pound price way down.

Welcome to the Forum and the hobby. Great fun and better "therapy".

Jeff

 

[Rat Trapper]

54 is the way I'd go if you plan to use patched round balls.

 

[Walks with fire]

I have had .50's for years and not long ago I got a .54 Lyman Deerstalker and it is quite accurate with charges as low as 60 grains and up to 90 grains is as high as I have tried. I like the .54 much better than a .50 and I think it holds it accuracy better at the 100 yard targets than a .50 does. My opinion is .54

 

[HPS]

Well now, after grabbing a cup of Joe and logging into the forum any doubts that I had disappeared. What a grand bunch you are. Feel I’ve taken a big jump in my learning already. Not having any local friends in the Black Powder community what luck to run across Traditional Muzzleloading Forum and having you all to suggest, recommend and encourage me in this discipline. It is much appreciated and the fun has already started.

I could not stand it any longer so placed my order for the .54 caliber Lyman Great Plains Rifle this morning. Interesting that it has the 1 in 60” twist for patched ball, which is the way I was planning on loading. The gent that loaned me his muzzleloader for the match used patch ball loads. Forgive me here as I don’t know if this is the norm or not. I'm looking forward to the set trigger setup to. New to me but another gent at the match had me try his and I liked it very much. His piece was an Italian make that started with a "P" I think. Anyway, he was doing a fine job on his critters.

Now, for some more questions since I’m going to make a trip to a shop that I do some center fire business with and see what he has in stock that I will need and can use like”¦”¦”¦

Percussion caps”¦”¦ I’m assuming are #11? (Maybe I should check out Lyman’s website to see if they have manuals online but you all are much more fun to talk to.)

Black Powder or substitute? I did note that BullRunBear mentioned he obtained more accuracy with black powder at least with a particular piece.

Startup Kit with items like powder container, measure, short ram rod, percussion cap holder, etc”¦

And not the least I’ll order the black powder accuracy paper written by Dutch Schoultz that bull3540 mentioned. I’ve always enjoyed the learning as a good part of the fun even at my more mature age. :wink:

Many thanks again for all the input and welcome. Please keep it coming. I plan on doing a lot of surfing here on the forum. Many jewels tucked away I’m sure. :v

I sure got windy in this post, forgive me, but there's so much to share and learn and so little time. :yakyak:

 

[satx78247]

I mentioned my cape-gun above and "plead guilty as charged" to being a "BIG-bore guy". = I'm headed to southern Africa in late AUG15 for 6 weeks of hunting for plains game (and hopefully) a leopard, with my crossbow & BP.

For that reason, I'm considering having another percussion SxS cape-gun built in .62caliber, with a 12 gauge shotgun barrel (that will stand a heavy load of 00 or 000 buckshot) on the left.

Note: To those who have followed my "continuing conversation" with the Game Department bureaucrats about taking a leopard with my XB, I've still heard nothing "concrete", even after I offered to have one of their game wardens "back me up" with my SxS double-barrel 10 gauge Matador.
(The GD folks are still "considering my request", as they simply don't understand what a 4-blade XB arrow is capable of, even after "Our dedicated TX huntress" collected a Cape Buffalo with her XB.)
IF they finally say "NO", I'll hunt (and hopefully collect) my leopard with a ML.

To those who are "appalled & horrified" at the thought of trophy-hunting for leopard: There are MORE leopards in Africa & Asia NOW than were living in the 18th Century. = "The green-eyed spotted devil" is commonplace all over southern Africa & India.
(One male leopard was recently killed by police INSIDE an art museum in downtown Jo'burg.)

just my opinion, satx

 

[daniel collums]

ffg black powder, powder measure with grains marked on it,bullet starter,bullet remover,patch remover,nipple wrench,caper,cotton patch material,patch lube-i like mink oil, cleaning stuff-.54 cal jag, good cleaning rod, good oil, a good sturdy bucket,a can of brake cleaner-a new rifle needs to be cleaned really well because of the grease. and there are lots of other things you will get as you go. i have found that the blue shop paper towels work good for me when cleaning and swabbing between shots. then you need to get a good bullet mould after you find which ball your new gun likes. start collecting roofing lead thats some of the best pure lead i have found. small cast iron pot, a cast ladle spoon, you can use your fish cooker to melt your lead.

 

[HPS]

Thanks Toccopola, a good list. Just printed off to use when I'm scouting for things I'll need.

I did find the percussion cup (cap?) size on the Lyman Muzzleloader page in their FAQ which stated a #11.

Thanks again for taking the time to respond. Much appreciated.

 

[mooman76]

Generally it's #11 for rifles and #10 for pistols but nipples come is slightly different sizes and tapers as well as the caps themselves. #10s will actually work for rifle if you have a small nipple on the rifle and visa versa.

 

[F.G. Ford]

Hi,
Always happy to see a new BP shooter.
There is a new Lyman .54 percussion in the classified ads.
It is unfinished, but it is ready to shoot, right out of the box.
These guns are great! No question about it.
If you are a bit handy finishing wood, a kit is a prime chance to make a gun like this "your own", and you will probably save a little.
I have no part in this sale, but do promote the Forum's classified section.
Best regards
Fred

 

[BrownBear]

...so much to share and learn and so little time.

One thing to know- Lyman barrels typically require a break-in period before they achieve their best accuracy. Sharp rifling and muzzle crowns can cut patches and send accuracy south. But as they smooth out, great things happen.

Lots of techniques for speeding the process, but you can also achieve it simply by shooting for a while. Without resorting to abrasives, it generally takes 100-200 shots for a Lyman barrel to start living up to its rep.

 

[MSW]

late to the party, but ...

I agree with your decision to go with .54. while I'm no ballistics expert, you need not be one to discern that a heavier projectile will retain energy over a greater distance than a smaller, lighter projectile (of the same shape) over the same distance ... more energy, better chance of putting the metal into the dirt ...

as regards powder, since you're shooting a caplock, you can use the 'substitute powders such as Pyrodex, but if you can get real black powder, I suspect that you'll find it cheaper and more better (i.e. more consistent) ... others will disagree, but that's been my experience for what it's worth. your mileage may vary...

don't forget targets, a staple gun, duct tape, hearing and eye protection, and a box in which to put all your stuff ...

and read Dutch Schoultz' method several times ... once you absorb this material, you cannot help but be a more accurate shooter ...

welcome to the wonderful world of muzzle loading, from which there is no escape and no cure (insert 'mad scientist' laugh here: bwahahaha! another one turned to the dark side)

make good smoke!

 

[daniel collums]

i been looking for a percussion 54 gpr but the one in the add is a flint or at least that what the listing says.

 

[HPS]

One thing to know- Lyman barrels typically require a break-in period before they achieve their best accuracy. Sharp rifling and muzzle crowns can cut patches and send accuracy south. But as they smooth out, great things happen.

Lots of techniques for speeding the process, but you can also achieve it simply by shooting for a while. Without resorting to abrasives, it generally takes 100-200 shots for a Lyman barrel to start living up to its rep.

Thanks BrownBear. I'll just do it the old fashion way. One hundred to two hundred rounds will give me the experience of handling the piece.

 

[HPS]

late to the party, but ...

don't forget targets, a staple gun, duct tape, hearing and eye protection, and a box in which to put all your stuff ...

and read Dutch Schoultz' method several times ... once you absorb this material, you cannot help but be a more accurate shooter ...

welcome to the wonderful world of muzzle loading, from which there is no escape and no cure (insert 'mad scientist' laugh here: bwahahaha! another one turned to the dark side)

make good smoke!

Thanks for the welcome and input MSW. I had an e-mail chat with Dutch earlier and will be sending for his method for sure.

My trip to the town across the river was not to impressive as for components. The only thing I located was the following substitute powders across two different stores.

Hodgdon ffg Triple 7, Hodgdon Pyrodex RS, Jim Shockey's Gold ffg and American Pioneer Powder ffg. No caps at all and they didn't know when they would have more.

When I asked one place if they had any real black powder I think his eyes crossed. :wink:

I guess it maybe an Internet search for the caps and then suffer the hazmat fee if I can find any. I'm also starting to think that I should just bite the bullet and get the equipment to cast my own spheres, balls that is. Do I start with a mould of .530 and work up from there. I guess patches will influence the size I should cast too and that the rifle likes?

Is there anyplace anyone would suggest for purchasing lead?

 

[azmntman]

Gonna have to go on-line. I have a few places if ya PM me I'll share no problemo!

HURRY ya gotta shoot soon or you will have 2-3 guns you haven't fired yet! (I really did have 2 I didn't fire once!).

Pyrodex or 777 over any other synthetic in my opinion. But just order 5 or more cans/bottles of BP and get it over with.

Your progressing quite quickly? Be afraid...be VERY AFRAID! :rotf:

 

[HPS]

Hey Arizona Mountain Man you've got me on the floor laughing. :haha:

OK, I'll go now and send you a PM...... still trying to figure that out. Is it what they call a PT here?

 

[Dr5x]

Lead Can be bought at plumbing supply house, Salvage yards. If you can cut it with your thumbnail its OK to use.
The obvious source to most folks is the discarded wheel weights at tire stores but these have an alloy that makes them much harder and less useful in ML shooting where the lead ball must extrude into the grooves of the rifling.

Dutch

 

[HPS]

Thanks very much Dutch. That will sure help not having to pay freight if I can find some local.

 

[Zonie]

Just my opinion but if I were to rate the synthetic black powders you mentioned from best to worst it would be in the same order that you mentioned them:

Hodgdon ffg Triple 7
Hodgdon Pyrodex RS
Jim Shockey's Gold ffg
American Pioneer Powder

Most .54's are happy shooting a .530 diameter patched ball so if your going to order a ball mold for casting that's the size I'd order.

The bare essentials for shooting equipment besides powder/ball/patches/ patch lube/percussion caps are
Cleaning jag sized for a .54 caliber. (A brass plug that screws onto the ramrod).

Nipple Wrench for removing the percussion nipple (cone).

Adjustable powder measure. (at least 40-120 grain volume)

Range rod. (Metal cleaning/ram rod). The guns factory ramrod will work if that's all you have.

Cleaning patches. (I like the store bought ones made for a .45 cal pistol.)

Pipe Cleaners. (The fuzzy twisted wire kind made for cleaning smoking pipes. Sometimes found at drug stores or hobby shops.

A good rust protective oil like Birchwood Casey Barricade.

That's about it.

There's a lot of other stuff you will eventually buy but this is enough to get you started.