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The only thing that has me scratching my head is how the wrist wood sweeps up and over the breech plug.

Hard to picture getting the barrel out without ripping the wood out.

Maybe it's an optical illusion.
 
Looks fine to me. Breech plug is a little bit canted to the top flat, might pull the barrel and drum and check torque on the breech plug and make sure the lock bolt hole still lines up afterward.

I have a .47 flinter built from a mix of old, older, and modern parts and the lock bolt is drilled straight through the breech plug threads on account of having a lock too small/short for the barrel and stock design. However, the plug is a perfect crush fit into the face at the bottom of the threads and seals well, not to mention has six threads in front of the bolt hole. The rifle shoots extremely well and withstands full loads with no problems whatsoever.
 
,Maybe colonial riflesmith can tell me what his problem with this is.
b8a57af18ea91fd7e13dd0ed5dfc0cb8.jpg
 
This is scary. Is there anyone brave enough to fire this rifle without a long string and a stout tree? Semper Fi.

View attachment 235969

View attachment 236007
Get an endoscope to take a look at the breech, unless you have a patent breech, shooting it should not be an issue. Appears the lock bolt goes thru the breech plug. From the location of the drum, I guessing. You’ll see the flat front of the breech plug directly behind where the drum screws thru the barrel.
 
First rifle I built, I put drum too far forward. Then lock bolt could not hit bolster properly. I made the bolt go UNDER the barrel (slight groove in barrel), and tapped a hole in the plate itself. Has worked fine for 30 years.
 
That pin hole is a purpose drilled vent hole. Dixie has recommended using one to reduce back pressure on the flame front for more reliable ignition. Not much different really than the hole in the nipple of a Hot Shot Nipple.
Yeah, I'm aware of that but wondered if that was what was bothering the OP??
 

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