What tools are needed for Beginner Project?

[Timo]

O.K. guys, so I'd like to build a Lyman GPR percussion in .54cal.

The posts by Kevin, Spot Shooter, and your recommendations are to "blame" for this. :winking:

Now the big question: What kind of tools do I need to complete this project?

Keep in mind that I don't have a workshop...I'll be living in a "Junior 2-Bedroom Apartment".
Perhaps I can use the table in the den to work on. Anyways, for starters do I need a Shop Vice to hold the barrel etc? Perhaps you could give me a list of what I'll be needing, such as files etc.

As usual your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Zonie]

As Keven and Spot have walked a mile in their moccasins on this trail, I would like them to answer this question.
Being the kind who always has to throw in my 2 cents worth I will guess at what you will need.

A good 10 inch "single cut" "smooth" mill file (The best you can find) with a good handle on it.
A single cut "bastard" mill file might also be nice but the smooth is better for draw-filing.
A Bastard or Coarse Rat Tail file might also be handy.
(Read the Post called FILING 101).

Screw drivers that actually fit the screw slots. It may be wise to wait until the kit arrives and then take the screws with you to the store so you can try them for fit.

A small hammer.

A small wood block for sanding.


If you don't have a vise you should get 2 C clamps for holding the barrel onto the table top. (Note, a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 inch plywood or masonite can save the tabletop from the damage which will occure to the table unless protected). Just guessing, I would say you don't want any C clamps smaller than 3 inch and 4 1/2 inch will be even better.

Medium size "Vise Grips" or equal. (best portable vise for holding small parts there is).

Maybe a drill and drill bits but they shouldn't really be needed.

Lots of Sandpaper (I prefer Garnet for wood and Silicone Carbide (black) wet/dry for sanding.)

Rags. Lots of them for applying stains, wood finishing oils, cleaning up messes etc.

PATIENCE. Although it is not a tool, you will have need for as much as you can force yourself to have.

While there are a lot of other tools you could have a use for, these are about all that is really "required".

 

[Timo]

Thanks Zonie, as usual a very helpful post/reply.

Perhaps Kevin and Spot will give me some hints too.

I'll be moving tomorrow (Michigan to Virginia) and won't have my computer until probably the end of next week. So, please bear with me if I don't reply for a while.

 

[Zonie]

You have a good trip!
Perhaps by the time you get back to us, Keven, Spot and RollinB will have added the things I am not aware of.

 

[sse]

How am I supposed to remember all this stuff??!! Its in one ear and out the other.

Regards, sse

 

[musketman]

Tools needed:

Band-aids: (for cuts and blisters)
Tweezers: (for pulling out splinters, both wood and metal)
Vaccum Cleaner: (for cleaning up before she gets home)
Ear Plugs: (for when she gets home)
Caffene: (for staying awake, wanting to finish it today)
Stain Remover: (for removing the plum brown stain from the carpet)
Duct Tape: (for keeping the kids in the other room while you work)
Money: (for the next muzzleloader you will want to build, and the one after that, and so on) :winking:

 

[nvbirdman]

The tools seem to be pretty well covered, except for one nobody has yet mentioned. Elbow grease.
Since you mentioned an apartment, the only work on mine that HAD to be done outside was browning the barrel. When I lived in a trailer park I did one in my driveway, and that was no problem, and now I have a lot more room, so there is even less of a problem, but your situation may be quite different.

 

[Spot Shooter]

45Flinter,

I would recommend a vise for draw filing the barrel. After that, you really don't need the vice at all.

I'd get the file and a file card to clean it as 'Zonie said. Also pick up some extra course steel wool, and sand paper in 80, 150, 200, and emery cloth in 300 & higher grits, or fine steel wool for finish work.

You'll need a sanding block for the paper, and a few smaller files if you want to clean up the trigger guard and such. You'll need a punch (smallers you can get) to drive the rod holder and fore arm pin's out.

After that you need finish (I used true-oil), and Browning (I used plum-brown), and some brake degreaser to clean the metal before browning. I'd get two bottles of the browning and one of the true oil.

That's all I really used, I made use of a finger nail file, a drill bit to sand the curves, and a hanger to let the stock dry. I also used a propane torch to heat the metal with a pair of forcep's to hold the cotton balls to apply the browning. Other than that I sold an old cookie sheet to put under things while I was browning them.

Hope that wasn't too much but it's what I end'd up buying.

I also bought some Round ball molds (Get the 1:66 twist if this is the way your going).

It takes time but it's a great riflegun.

Spot

 

[musketman]

I would recommend a vise for draw filing the barrel. After that, you really don't need the vice at all.

If I may please add to this statement...

Pad the jaws of the vise with brass or copper, or even leather or lead... You want a softer metal touching the barrel than harden steel...

The steel teeth of the vise's jaw will mark up a barrel and rob you of all of your efforts...

You don't have a vise? You say...

No problem, use the home vise instead...

Place one end of the barrel on the edge of the coffee table and the other end of the barrel on the edge of the couch (about 6 inches on should do fine)...

Now sit on the edge of the barrel (on the couch) and use your butt cheeks as a vise (keeping your clothes on), the weight of your body will keep the barrel from rolling as you draw file it...

This really works, stop laughing...

The couch (and your body) will conform to the shape of the breech plug, so their is no bending going on there...

Oh, by the way, watch out for metal slivers...

Do not sit in the middle of the barrel, if you are like me (and I know I am...) my weight will bend the barrel, ever so slightly... :winking:

It is a good idea to remove the front sight when you do this, this will save you a trip to the Proctologist later down the road... Boy, that would be something to explain...

 

SSE,.... "PLUG" one ear, and thet'll keep things from pass'n on thru!!!! :haha: :haha: :applause:

 

[Spot Shooter]

45Flinter,

Musketman's right I forgot to mention the plastic jaw sleeves. I got the one's with magnets in them.

SSE,

I can only remember one thing, if I'm lucky two at a time. That's way I end up post'n so much. Ya can always come back and and re-read, but I find it funner to ask a specific question instead or rely'n on a continued stream of consciencious from guy's who can't remember things like buy'n platic jaw thingies.

Spot

 

[sse]

rollingb - Not a bad ideer. I'll use a patched round ball. No problem goes unsolved around here.

Regards, sse

 

[JesseJames]

Make a home made vise. Get a pc. of 1x8x16 in. find the middle of it measure the largest pc that you will have to clamp go 3/4in. bigger than that. Now screw 2pc of 2x4x8 one on each side of you marks. Now cut a wedge 8in.long. Fron one end to the other 1 1/2 to nothing and cut that. This will be your wedge. Set your barrel in it than take the wedge and tap it in along side of it now you have a vise

 

[Stumpkiller]

Treat yourself and visit the Brownells website. Not the cheapest source of tools, but everything they have is taylored to the gunsmith and it is all top quality. You can't loose spending the bucks to get a good Magna-bit screwdriver set. Having EXACTLY the right bit can mean the difference between a buggered up slot and crisp ones. Believe me, if you bugger up a screw slot it will haunt you unmercifully until you repair or replace it.

A Nylon or hard plastic hammer is nice for setting metal parts snugly into wood (never pound heavily, but a good tap is sometimes needed). A block of wood between the part and any hammer will substitute.

 

[musketman]

Treat yourself and visit the Brownells website. Not the cheapest source of tools, but everything they have is taylored to the gunsmith and it is all top quality.

Here is their link:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/home/default.aspx

 

[Spot Shooter]

45,

Did i mention a brass pin to drive those sites into the barrel channel with?

Spot

 

[musketman]

Once sighted in, if you "ping" the edges of the dove tail down (just enough to snug it) the front sight will not move...

And as always, never use anything that will marr the barrel... A brass drift will do fine...

 

[TwoShadows]

Bass Pro currently has a gunsmith screwdriver kit that is under $20.....I use mine a lot....probably not the quality of the others, but work fine for me.

 

[LRB]

Don't mean to be picky, but I found years ago that a brass drift will sometimes dent soft steel. A cooper drift is much easier on your parts.

 

[LRB]

That should have read "copper drift".