WD 40?

[Sam86]

agreed, it makes a barrier between metal and water.
and it isn't "magic" the water and oil can not emulsify and the oil in WD-40 adheres to the pores of the metal and repels the water (just like a top coat does on wood) and prevents oxidation.

 

[Rifleman1776]

OT but in response.
Four years U.S. Air Force for me. atriot:
Only a non-veteran would fail to see the intra-forces humor in my post.

 

[jdkerstetter]

OT but in response.
Four years U.S. Air Force for me. atriot:
Only a non-veteran would fail to see the intra-forces humor in my post.

Well, there you go again with the personal attacks... :shake: I didn't see anything personal in my post.

Perhaps it would help us understand when you are using humor if you use an emoticon like... :rotf: or :haha: otherwise you leave yourself to be missunderstood. It's not always as obvious as you may think....even to those of us familiar with "intra-service humor"

Oh, and thanks for your service.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[hanshi]

"Casting dispersions", that's a good one, jdkerstetter.

I've been using 3 in 1 oil since I was a kid and WD40 since the 1970s at least. I still use them religiously. I do not, however, rely on WD40 as a storage/rust preventative. I currently use Barricade in the bore for protection. I never understood why some folks get so concerned about using WD40; it's great stuff.

 

[gizamo]

Didn'tthe formulation of WD-40 change over the years?

 

[Sperit de bois]

You stand right next to a mud puddle,,jump up and land with both feet in the middle of the puddle,,,you have displaced the water,it will soon be back.
My job was to get it to go away,,forever not displace it,

AECS(AW) USN RET

 

[Matt85]

WD-40 has worked well for my super rust sensitive armisport springfield. the rule against using petrol products is "dont use it as lube", using it as rust prevention is fine. here is my clean and then pre-shoot process:

pre-shoot:
1. run a patch soaked with denatured alchohol down the barrel followed by a dry patch. (repeat if necessary)
2. spray the nipple and flash channel with denatured alchohol then dry. (do not allow to air dry, use a patch and a pipe cleaner)

post shoot:
1. remove the nipple and clean it and the flash channel with alchohol (i like to use a pipe cleaner)
2. fill barrel with about 1/4 cup of denatured alchohol and then tip the gun back and forth moving the alchohol around rapidly (plug both ends of course). finish by dumping out the alchohol and running dry patches untell they come out clean.
3. wipe down all surfaces with a patch soaked in alchohol, followed by a dry patch.
4. wipe the whole gun down with WD-40 and run a patch soaked with WD-40 down the barrel.
5. store muzzle down

notice i dont use any water? ive found denatured alchohol to work just aswell as water without the risk of rust the water could cause.

 

[Huntin_Dawg1215]

I too have used 3 in 1 oil for many years I have also used WD40, I like them both. I just use which ever is setting closest.

Now here is something else that I read and tryed a few years back with WD40. some of you others might have also and then there is some that might want to try now and see if it works with their m/l.

I would load with 70 grains of Pyrodex and a patchedroun d ball. The patch was lubed with bore butter, which iswhat I was using at the time. I would then run a patch with WD40 down the bore till I hit the ball,Then I would cap and shoot it. the results was a much more accurant shoot. Now if I didn't do the point of impact was different. Any thoughts on that.

 

[rduncan]

The first thing I was taught when shooting BP was get the corrosive residue neutralized first; WD40 won't do that for you. But I do use WD40 liberally when I am restoring something in really crappy condition; squirt it into the bore before running a patch (also soaked) down it and watching what spurts out of the drum (or vent). Good stuff; also works when you get mixed up with fire ants.

 

[gmww]

I see a lot of you use WD40 to oil your bores. I was under the impression you were not supposed to use petrolium products with black powder.

The label on my can of WD 40 says "contains petrolium distilated" so I have avoided its use.

Am I missing something here?

I believe the issue was not to use petroleum when using bore butter as a rust inhibitor. That discussion has been waged over and over again.

As far as WD40 goes, I've used it a lot. Here is an interesting side by side comparison test by Brownells that might be of interest.

Rust inhibitor test. IMHO it's a personal preference.

 

[4given]

I see a lot of you use WD40 to oil your bores. I was under the impression you were not supposed to use petrolium products with black powder.

The label on my can of WD 40 says "contains petrolium distilated" so I have avoided its use.

Am I missing something here?

I believe the issue was not to use petroleum when using bore butter as a rust inhibitor. That discussion has been waged over and over again.

As far as WD40 goes, I've used it a lot. Here is an interesting side by side comparison test by Brownells that might be of interest.

Rust inhibitor test. IMHO it's a personal preference.

So you can't use WD 40 in conjuntion with bore butter?

 

[gmww]

My understanding is if you try to season your barrel with bore butter, the use of a petroleum product will create problems. I think you will find many don't follow the seasoning the barrel idea including myself. I clean the fouling out and get as close to bare metal as possible and then lube their barrel with their favorite product.

:wink:

 

[Stumpkiller]

No law against it, I suppose.

I prefer something like Sheath or Barricade for metal protection. Bore butter is a good shooting lubricant but not necessarily a metal protectant. At least it should do no harm if you cleaned well before applying it. When I lube my lock I use a needle to apply Rem-Oil or Barricade.

I suppose if you remove the metal from the wood or are careful with it you can use WD-40, but I prefer not to spray my wood with it so don't use it for flintlocks.

I clean with soapy water (warm, not hot). Chase off the water with dry and alcohol patches. Store with Barricade, then clear that with alcohol before lubing and loading with a wax/oil lube.

 

[Strawstalker/NM]

I have used 3-in-one, Rig, Shooter Choice, Mobile One (Syn), Ballistol & WD-40 for all my oil/lube needs for forever all have worked fine when used for the correct use. Sure beats rendering bear fat.I have reels and guns, passed on to me, that are over 70 years old and no rust yet. It is nice that our promlem is that we have so many fine lubes/oils to select from. We sure are spoiled.
Strawstalker/Co.

 

[Kapow]

I don't have any military experience but I was a very angry boyscout! A product which I use in the marine (pun intended) environment is a spray can of Lanolin. Marketed here as "Lanox". Awesonme stuff, all natural and works great on fishing reels & bearings. Pure Lanolin is something boat manufacturers use as a barrier between dissimilar metals for example. I believe it could be a superior alternative to WD40. Worth a try.

Just for what it is worth I am travelling and camping along the beaches of east Australia. Very salty, humid environment perfect for rust. Have been away four months now. Before I left I lightly sprayed my Lyman GPR with Barricade. Just cheked it yesterday and not one speck of surface rust. I don't believe WD40 would have offered the same level of protection.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Didn'tthe formulation of WD-40 change over the years?

According to last time I visited their web site, no.

 

[pripley]

I had some time on my hands and I decided to clean the patent breech of my .50 cal GPR. I looked in the barrel which I cleaned and oiled on Saturday and I couldn't see anything but a fog. This post got me thinking about what oil I had on my bench and the inventory is extensive: WD-40, 3-in-1, Rem Oil, Outers, Zoom-spout, Gunzilla, Hoppes #9, and some cutting fluid(?). I wonder if the fog is from mixing? :idunno: