Twist rate T/C Penn. Hunter

[Rick Butler]

I've got a Penn. Hunter flintlock I've had for about 10 years. Shot it a little when I first got it, was going to hunt with it this year but never got around to it. My buddy took a doe with his TC Hawken Perc. on the last day of our season and got me fired up to hunt with the Flinter next year. I honestly don't remember if I shot Round Balls or Conicals thru it. Anyone know the twist rate for it and a good starting point as far as loads go?

 

[WV MZL HUNTER]

I've got a Penn. Hunter flintlock I've had for about 10 years. Shot it a little when I first got it, was going to hunt with it this year but never got around to it. My buddy took a doe with his TC Hawken Perc. on the last day of our season and got me fired up to hunt with the Flinter next year. I honestly don't remember if I shot Round Balls or Conicals thru it. Anyone know the twist rate for it and a good starting point as far as loads go?

I am sure it has a 1-48 twist and it should shoot prbs. and maxi balls. Maxi ball I would shoot 90 grs. 2f and prbs. I would shoot 75 grs. 3f 15th patch. I am guessing it is a 50 cal.muzzleloader?

 

[Robert58]

Look it up here.
http://www.tcarms.com/firearms/chart_muzzleloaders.php

Robert

 

[WV MZL HUNTER]

Look it up here.
http://www.tcarms.com/firearms/chart_muzzleloaders.php

Robert

What is Deep Button and Cut mean?
I see one is 1-66 and the other is 1-48 but other than that?

 

[Rick Butler]

Thanks all. I've not seen that chart before.

 

[Finnwolf]

Though the PA Hunter was offered in both 1 in 48 and 1 in 66 twist, vast majority sold were the 1 in 66. This is because the rifle was targeted specifically for sales in Pennsylvania (and 1 or 2 other states) where, at the time, only flintlocks shooting patched round balls were allowed in the muzzleloader season.

The slower 1 in 66 twist is designed to shoot balls more accurately than the faster twist. Many of us longed for the advertised better accuracy and we jumped at the chance to buy a rifle designed for shooting roundballs. I was unaware at the time that slow twist drop in barrels for the T/C Hawken (which I had) were available, so I was one of the first to buy a PA Hunter when they came out. Pretty pricey at the time but I sold my Hawken to get a leg up on the price.

Never did notice any significant increase in accuracy over my 1 in 48 Hawken.

Reference to "cut" and "button" refer to the method in which the rifling is engraved in the barrel. "Cut" refers to cut rifling where the grooves are produced with a carbide cutter. "Button" refers to a carbide button pulled throght the bore to produce the rifling grooves.
Others here can far better explain these processes than I.

 

[Finnwolf]

Sorry Rick, I didn't answer your questions fully.
If you have a slow twist like mine, you can start at 70 grains of 2F, a .490 ball with .18 lubed patch and work your load from there 5 grains at a time. See where your groups start to open up and stop there.
You can find out which twist you have by running a tight patched jag on your ramrod down the barrel. Mark the ramrod with a piece of white tape right at the point where the front sight is. Pull the ramrod up the barrel noting the revolution of the piece of tape. When you get to the top of the barrel, if the tape made 1/2 revolution (or is 180 degress from it's original position) you have made about a 1/2 revolution in the 31" barrel - that is a 1 in 66 twist. If your tape revolves about 5/8ths around the barrel, it's a 1 in 48 twist. Again, others may know a bether method of determining twist.
If you are hunting, you'll want a load that has good punch past 50 yards. I practice enough to shoot out past 75 yards off hand so I settled on a 90 grain charge. It's a little more accurate with 80-85 grains but I'll trade a little accuracy for the extra punch.
You can also experiment with 3F powder, I never did so I have no opinion there.

 

[Walks with fire]

Mine are 1/66 twist; 31 and 21 inch barrels. My stocks are fully glass bedded including the tangs. Extremely accurate with Goex 2f and not so good with 3f; I use a Criso lubed blue jean material .030 patch and a .495 ball though. It's snug but not hard to load at all. All charge levels shoot great with the 2f.

 

[WV MZL HUNTER]

It would have been a good idea to stamp these barrels when they were made? 1-48 or 1-66 and so on. :hmm:

 

[roundball]

All of TC's .45/.50/.54cal round ball barrels for the Hawken & Renegade are stamped with the words Round Ball 1:66" Twist, on the right side near the rear sight...guess they must have just done that for those models

 

[Rick Butler]

Jeff, I did as you suggested with marking the ramrod, looks like I've got a 1:66 twist. Thanks for the tip and load reccomendations. Was hoping to get out and shoot it today but this "deep freeze" we're in right now is just to much. I would'nt last more than 3 shots.

 

[Heidi 1672]

I have 3 that are stamped 1 in 66 twist on the right hand side of the barrel. These are full octagon barrels. I also have 3 that are not marked and these are the half round -- half octagon barrels.

 

[WV MZL HUNTER]

All of mine are 1-48 except the green mountain barrel and it is 1-72. I did see the old t/c books show 1-66 on the round ball barrels but did not show 1-48 on the other barrels. Maybe because they would shoot both round balls and maxi balls?

Thanks
Round ball

 

[roundball]

All of mine are 1-48 except the green mountain barrel and it is 1-72. I did see the old t/c books show 1-66 on the round ball barrels but did not show 1-48 on the other barrels. Maybe because they would shoot both round balls and maxi balls?

Thanks
Round ball

Right, TC never bothered to stamp the 1:48" barrels

 

[Finnwolf]

Same thing here in PA, Rick - single digits and even some minus numbers at night. I was out with my flinter for the last day of the season here last Sat. Even at 17 degrees, a 7 mph wind and the snow had me back in my truck at noon.
It's no fun when it's no fun.