tc seneca 36cal.

[bore_butter]

this plate is bent, can it be pressed flat without applying heat?

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

It’s difficult to see where the plate is bent. Does the bend in the plate hamper the function of the hammer ? How was the hammer chipped ? Can you fit a small shim under the plate to straighten it out when you put the lock back into the stock ? Does the lock mortise need a slight adjustment where the bend in the plate is ? :hmm:

 

[Rifleman1776]

It’s difficult to see where the plate is bent. Does the bend in the plate hamper the function of the hammer ? How was the hammer chipped ? Can you fit a small shim under the plate to straighten it out when you put the lock back into the stock ? Does the lock mortise need a slight adjustment where the bend in the plate is ? :hmm:

Good questions.
Just file the nose of the hammer until it all looks nice, will still work fine. Replace the screw. If the lock fits OK, use as is. If not you may have to get clever to straighten the plate. I can't see the bend either.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I have a TC Hawken I built from a kit 40 years ago with a bend in the plate. It has been that way for years and has not presented a problem. The hammer doesn't hit quite square on the nipple, but it also has not created a problem with failures of the cap to go off or misfires unless there are other issues.

I don't know how rigid the metal is in the plate and have never attempted to straighten mine.

 

[bore_butter]

the hammer screw threads went TU and it let the hammer rock. the cup on the hammer came down and hit the nipple and took the chunk out.
I secured another screw (oem) and it tightened up properly. I obtained a new hammer and mounted it this morn and the hammer cup once again hits the nipple.
the hammer needs to go inward to correct this problem and all I see is the plate being bent outward in the middle. it is fairly noticeable looking strait down on the plate.
i'm thinking it the middle was strait the hammer would go to the left and hit center on the nipple.
I've got a .50 cal tc hawken and the hammer itself it quite a bit larger than the seneca and centering problems are not as critical.

 

[bore_butter]

hammer alignment with the bend in the plate

this is the fit up with the lock securing screw in place

 

[Adui]

Im no expert but it almost looks to me like the hammer is slightly twisted off angle

 

[bore_butter]

yeah, i'm no expert either but both the original and the new hammer fit exactly like that on the nipple. didn't think both could be bent but rather the plate causing that fit-up.

 

[Adui]

I had forgotten you said that was a new hammer. Not likely to be bent, and since its the second on the rifle even less likely BOTH would be bent. I'd go with your original assessment that the plate is somehow bent or twisted slightly

 

[bubba.50]

if the bridle screw is tight I wouldn't worry about part of the head bein' gone.

it is not uncommon for T/C locks to have a slight bow in them. usually flatten out when ya snug up the lock bolt. just don't over-tighten it.

the hammer can be tweaked a bit to clear the nipple. some cold bend them, others use heat. you could practice wwith the old hammer.

luck & have a good'en, bubba.

 

[Kansas Jake]

Mine is not bowed out, but inward, so that would make a difference.

 

[rdstrain49]

Look at the lock mortis of your stock. You will likely be able to see where the lock was shimmed using some kind of glue/epoxy. Most of my TCs are that way from the factory. If the shim or shims are missing, put a bit of mold release agent on the lock (coat everything unless you want a real problem) and a dab of glue in a couple of spots in the stock, install the lock (don't over tighten) and let it dry. Back in business.

 

[bore_butter]

can't do any shimming because that would put the hammer that much further toward the center of the nipple.
here is what the stock looks like

here is a pic of the old hammer and the new one is just like this one. you can see it is angled to the right so I thing there is no bending in this area.

 

[Zonie]

Although the bent lock plate isn't helping, I think the problem can be fixed by allowing the entire lock plate to tip toward the barrel at the top.

That is, if the wood surfaces in the upper area of the lock mortise that the lock plate is resting on had just a little bit of material removed while leaving the lower surfaces alone, the lock plate and hammer would be tilted toward the barrel.

It doesn't take much to make this happen so the first thing I would try would be to scrape off any stock finish that might be on those upper surfaces.

If that doesn't move the hammer sideways far enough, some scraping to remove some of the bare wood would be the next thing I would try.

Like I say, it doesn't take a lot to cause the lock plate to tip the hammer sideways so, give it a try.

 

[necchi]

Your really doing your home work here and giving us some great photo's.
You really have to look at your photos to see your "mis-shapened" lock plate.
What you would have to do is make a longitudinal bend in the plate to correct the hammer/nipple throw,, correct?

That could be dicey, hot or cold, getting the plate to bend just right so the hammer is pushed in-ward could mess with how the tumbler fit's/rides on the inside of the plate.

Just looking at your photo's, I'd bend the hammer for the fix,, and that would be just the nose of the hammer after the thumb cock if possible. The trick is of course is to get the hammer alone in a vice (as a heat sink) and find a proper fitting tool or device to bend it the way you want.
(bend not twist)(and it doesn't take much)
I have heated to red hot and bent hammers from T/C American made, the Spanish as well as Italian made hammers. They can take it without the need to re-temper,, just let them cool.
Cold bending a hammer almost always results in a break.

p.s. If you can't get the nose to move then I'd bend it just below the thumb. It's easier to attach a tool to the thumb, again red-hot and just a tiny bit.

 

[bore_butter]

I think what I will do is say bunch of prayers and take that old broken cup hammer and heat the hell out of it and try to bend it using some map gass. if I can make that work and fit right then I may do the same with the new hammer.
that plate has the reinforcement gusset right where it needs to bend and I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I screwed up that lock.
probably won't be able to try it till Monday.

 

[necchi]

Good on ya, sounds like a plan. Be careful with the MAP, Keep it dull red at first and work up slowly with the old hammer,, and it really is just a tiny bit of movement that's needed.
A vice and finding a proper tool at hand to use for the bending is key too, I used the box end side of a combination wrench that fit just right. It's not the proper use of a box-end wrench,, but I didn't burn my fingers!! :wink:

 

[bore_butter]

yeah, that box in wrench is the most versatile tool ever invented. I've even seen a guy blowing bubbles with one.

 

[bore_butter]

thanks for all the suggestions!!!
got out in the garage 05:00 am and decided to have at it. used propane torch and not the map and here are the results.

now will have to wait for the rain to stop and try it out.

 

[nit wit]

BB:
Good job. I believe the notch in the hammer was put there on purpose. You want caps and pieces to go away from your face and a notch allows this to happen.
Nit Wit