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rleete1948

36 Cal.
Joined
Sep 12, 2007
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has anyone run in to a problem with the nipples blowing out of this type of barrels I was shooting my TC a day ago and fired about 5 shots though it and on the last one fired fine but when was going to place a cap on the nipple it was gone and the hammer was not cocking I was loading 75 grains of 777 in it and the typical patch and round ball so for right now the rifle is shot until I can figure out what to do

Thank you for any help
 
You're lucky the nipple didn't hit you.

Never heard of a problem with any TC barrels.

Did you have a nipple with the correct threads?

Have the threads checked by a gunsmith, if bad send the barrel back to TC.
 
I had that happen once, I had put a new nipple on and wrote it off as having the wrong threads. Put the old one back on and no more problems.
 
Whoa!!! That's nasty. And dangerous.

Is that an original TC barrel or a Green Mountain replacement? Check this thread regarding nipple problems on a specific batch of GM barrels.

After reading that, you have to wonder if you had the wrong nipple in your barrel, GM or not.
 
yes the nipple was what came with the barrel and when it happen it looks like it took some of threads with it also and the nipple busted the lock as will so I guess I will have to call TC to get this straighten out
 
Redrooster said:
has anyone run in to a problem with the nipples blowing out of this type of barrels I was shooting my TC a day ago and fired about 5 shots though it and on the last one fired fine but when was going to place a cap on the nipple it was gone and the hammer was not cocking I was loading 75 grains of 777 in it and the typical patch and round ball so for right now the rifle is shot until I can figure out what to do

Thank you for any help
Sounds like it may have been an inadvertent double powder charge
 
no it wasn't it was just 75grains of 777 what would be the Max charge simpel patch and ball
 
If it wasn't an accidental double charge, that opens the question of whether or not the ball was seated all the way down flush against the charge.
 
everything was as normal i was not in any hery to re fire i mesured each charge started and seated and ramed the ball down and even taped a fwe times to be sur it was seated fermly
 
Were you using 2F or 3F triple Seven? You did not tell us what cal your rifle is either. TC told me that I could use up to 100 grains of triple seven 2F in my 50 Hawken and up to 120 grains of 2F in my 54 Hawken with conicals. I normally use 90 grains in the 50 as it is more accurate, but do use the 120 in the 54. Have never had any problems like you did.
 
sorry for a in complete description it is a 50 cal the powder is ffg #11 CCI primers the balls are 490 hornady and the patches were lub with boor butter The Barrel is a Sharon one of the Originals

Thank you for your help and what would be TC Phone #
 
What you describe is exactly what happened to me...........................but................I attributed my incident to not having the nipple screwed in tightly enough. I went over my incident as best as I could remember and that's what I think happened to me. My rifle was a Hawken .50 caliber. I sent everything back to TC and they sent me back a new lock but they had no explanation as to why it happened. If you send yours into TC make sure to keep us posted about what they come up with. Good thing you weren't hurt.
 
Now, I'm not saying that this is what happened but it is pretty easy to forget to tighten a nipple after one cleans a muzzleloader.

In this condition, often with the nipple "started" a turn or two into the barrel it looks quite normal the next time the gun is taken out to shoot.

A few shots can blow it out, sometimes damaging the first thread or two that is in the barrel.

When cleaning a percussion gun always double check to make sure the nipple was tightened down before putting the gun away.
By tightened down, I don't mean the person should over-tighten the nipple either. That can be as bad or worse than not having it tightened down enough.

Over-tightening the nipple (or any other screw) can use most of the strength of the threads just to hold the part in place. Then when additional stress is added to the assembly the threads will fail.

I suggest that when installing a nipple a little anti-seize or grease should be applied. Then run the nipple down with finger pressure until it seats on the face. Apply the wrench and give it about 1/4 turn or until some positive resistance is felt, then stop and call the job "well done".
 
thank Jim but no everything the way it should be the nippel was tight andthe threds are gone down too the last two
thank you Jim
 
It may well have been a metric nipple in a SAE thread. A 4 x .75 can be screwed in a 1/4-28 with a nipple wrench. The metric threads pitch is close enough to start for a couple of threads but it's major OD is .007 thousandths or there abouts smaller than the 1/4-28's is. I did a little math and assumming a breech pressure of 12,000 PSI at each firing you will have an almost instantaneous pulse (a hammer blow if you will) of approximately
402 PSI. If a thread is ill fitting it will let go sooner or later and your's let go sooner. To sort of put it in perspective 402 LBS is 1/5 of a ton every time the hammer drops. There is not a lot of room for error.
 
runnball
I think a slip of the digit might have occured with your post. A M4 thread would be .1575 in diameter.

I bet you meant to type M6 X .75. 6mm is .236 in diameter which will fit into a 1/4-28 threaded hole with .0138 clearance. That's a bunch of clearance.

The .75mm pitch thread is the equivalent of a 33.87 Threads per inch pitch which is a heap different from a 28 pitch thread but that .0138 clearance can make it "seem" like it is screwing in OK.
Of course, it won't have any real strength to it if this is done and it blowing out wouldn't surprise me either.
 
I suspect you meant a 6x0.75 metric thread; the 6mm MD is just 0.014" undersize for a 1/4" MD hole. The 0.75mm pitch is 33.9 tpi, however, and that seems unlikely to mesh with a 28 tpi hole beyond about a half turn.

I guess one could force a full turn and maybe even more with a wrench as you suggest, but it would take a lot of torque. I can't imagine it being accidental. It would certainly destroy the threads and greatly weaken the integrity of the nipple installation, making it susceptible to being blown out.

Edit: Zonie beat me to it, while I was typing. I don't think the loose MD clearance would be enough to make the 34/28 tpi interference not noticeable, but in any case I agree with him and runnball that this is the most likely reason for the incident.
 
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