Tapered Fowler Rammer

[R.C.BINGAMAN]

Hi all, looking for a tapered rammer for a smooth bore, preferably with a horn end,any makers out there or suggestions on how to go about building one, if interested please p.m. me for the particulars. I have done straight ones for rifles but never a tapered one, thanks for the assistance

 

[hoochiepapa]

The only help I can give you is that the swivel breech I have came with a tapered ramrod. It was sanded and filed until it tapered a little, and was rounded on the end. As to the horn tip, you have to have a bore like a pencil sharpener and also sharpen the rod the same way. I made a longbow in the traditional style, and the instructor used a pencil sharpener-like tool to sharpen the end of the limb, and a boring tool that matched the pencil sharpener, and we glued them together. A very strong joint.
Good Luck!!

 

[paulvallandigham]

I have seen footed arrows, and ornate Ramrods made with a slot and tongue, rather than the coned method.

You cut a wide tongue on the tip you want to put on the ramrod, then cut a similarly wide slot in the end of the ramrod shaft. Glue the two together. let dry. Pin the new tip to the rod, with crosspin(s), and more glue( I file nicks in the soft metal pins so that the glue has something to grab inside the pinhole), and then peen the ends of the soft pins down into the countersink you put in the wood. File and sand the tip and shaft to common size, and then finish with gunstock oil.

I have been using soft Nickle/copper brazing rod for pinning ramrod ferrules, handles and tips. Its tough, but also soft enough to peen very well without hard pounding. Soft iron/steel finishing nails- the ones with the very small heads-- can also be used, as can brass rods, or copper rods.

With these small sized holes, I just find a larger Drill bit- 1/4" for instance, and use it to knock the splinters off the edge of the pin holes in the wood on both sides, and use it to put a bit of a countersink to the mouths of the holes. I hold these larger bits in my hand, to turn in the holes in the wood shaft, and don't bother to mount them in a drill.

I have also seen ramrods with tips fixed to the shaft as the tips on cue-sticks for pool are made. The back end of the tip is turned to a small diameter shaft 1/4-3/8" long. A similar sized hole is then drilled into the shaft of the ramrod, or cue-stick. The tip is glued into the shaft. and allowed to dry. Sanding finished the outside dimensions and the stick is then coated with some kind of wood finish.

If Ramrod IS ONLY going to be used to LOAD a PRB down the barrel, and NEVER to clean the barrel, this last method is adequate enough. The Glue does not have enough strength, however, to withstand a lot of weigh or tension if the rod is to be used to PULL a wad, or stuck ball out of the barrel. :hmm:

 

[Robby]

R.C., This is one I made from hickory and horn. It is not difficult, and is pretty much self explanatory. You can make the diameter of the horn as large as you like, and taper it into the rod.
Robby

 

[R.C.BINGAMAN]

Thanks all, this seems like more than I want to undertake At this moment, as the weather in my parts is pretty cold and my small work shop is un-heated, I did recieve a reply from a fellow forum member and we are currently working out the particulars. Once again thanks for the help. A APPALICHIAN HUNTER

 

[R.C.BINGAMAN]

Robby, picture please

 

[Robby]

Sorry R.C., Senior moment, I guess.

Robby

 

[mazo kid]

Robby, I like that! You could make the tip as large as you need, flaring out to a cup end. :thumbsup:

 

[LRB]

Many horn tipped rods were a hollow sheath of horn around the wood, with the wood showing at an end view. That is somewhat stronger, and easier to make.

 

[hoochiepapa]

Wow, nice.

 

[hoochiepapa]

So, Wick, you just drill out the horn the same diameter as the rod?

 

[John Wasmuth]

:thumbsup: Nice work Robby.

 

[R.C.BINGAMAN]

Very nice ,this is what I am looking for,These type rammers really add to a fowler, and thank you for the photo.R.C.

 

[LRB]

You would want to reduce the rod tip area in diameter forming a shoulder with a core shaft of a chosen drill bit size. You would want the reduced core to be left thick enough for strength, yet reduced enough for the finished walls of the horn to also have adequate strength against cracking. Then drill a suitable block of horn, install with glue, and dress down with whatever amount of flare you wish. Fairly easy job, but I don't have any photos. Much like installing a tubular metal tip at the base, except the horn is open at the end with the wood exposed. I have seen at least one that appeared to secured with a cross wedge as an axe head would have, but I would think that might put unnecessary pressure on the horn walls.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I have seen multiple originals with the wedges in the top. When you use that in conjunction with a shoulder, it prevents the tip from going either way. I have not had any splitting resulting from pressure. Of course the wedges are not driven in with the force of an axe wedge either: )
You can also use a brass ring as well.

 

[Robby]

R.C., The only problem I have found. especially if you re making the tip in a sort of tapered flange, is the horn cracking. You can see a slight crack in the photo I posted, but then, I'm a bouncer :grin: . I think splicing a type of wood like elm, with interlocking grain, might be more durable. The joint itself is extremely strong. The arrows shown, have been shot hundreds, if not thousands of times, osage nock, cedar body, and walnut footing.

Robby

 

[paulvallandigham]

A lot of HORN TIPS are sawed off to make powder horns. Its those tips that, when big enough, can be turned into nice end caps for ramrods. Antler tines are also turned into tapered ramrod tips. They are less likely to develop splits, or cracks, if they remain solid at the face( end).

 

[jsn]

Would it make sense to place the wedge in the slot cut then take the rod tip of bone, antler, or horn that is solid and hammer that into place? This would theoretically make the tip impossible to come off unless a crack develops right?

 

[Robby]

Oddfellow, I'm not exactly sure what you are saying, but I always put a clamp at the apex of the female joint to keep it from splitting, as I tap the male piece in. I make the angle on the male a little broader than the female, it forces the legs apart slightly, to increase the diameter, giving me extra material to file down to finished size.
Robby